Seca 82 leftover project

I was lucky to come across an add on my local FB market place. Deal was so good I was just going up to get a parts bike. Rain and wind (as always) when you drive to get a bike, just seems to be the way it is.
20191022_110059 by Tim Brown, on Flickr
20191022_110108 by Tim Brown, on Flickr
I call this the leftover project as someone was doing some work on it. New ebay tank and seat.
20191022_110448 by Tim Brown, on Flickr
20191022_110454 by Tim Brown, on Flickr
Those pics are right after I got her in the shed, so still wet from road trip. I was able to take a look at her a little today, hand wash and look things over. Someone has already tried to change the fuse holder (pics to follow).

I checked the air box for critters, pulled the plugs and took a look see in cylinders, all good. Put a battery on her with some jumper cables and turned on the key...nothing. The fuse holders need help. After a little bit of messing around, the lights came on the ATARI (i think that is right) and hit the starter. I was shocked that not only did it turn over but I had spark on all four! That is where I stopped for now...the deer are calling for me to come to the woods.

 

Save the bike looks like an easy project to rescue...remember they are not building these bikes any longer .

 

many a "Parts" bike can be saved with a little work. PO just could not find the issue.

if motor turns over its worth the try

 

No worries, she is not being parted out. I was able to turn it over and have spark. I will need to get that fuse box out and new blade type in there. I have spark so the major job (as always) will be the carbs. I will pull them out and take a look see. The normal caliber rebuild, brake MC and check the valve specs. I looks like the valve cover has been off once, I am little shocked as the bike only has 9K on it.

The exhaust is a 4-1 that needs TLC, but can be salvaged. No side covers, but that is ok. Thinking of maybe changing out the bars, headlight and speedo on this one. Looks like the PO's might have been playing around up there a lot, so have to see. I will get some better pics up now the berry harvest is over and I can play with her when I am not hunting.

 

9 k miles cover should have been off a couple of times

 

It is great to see old bikes being put back on the road where they belong.

 

Well got to work on the bike yesterday as the temps here really are dropping. Early winter temps for this area. Carbs have the normal gum on them.
DSCN0016 by Tim Brown, on Flickr
DSCN0019 by Tim Brown, on Flickr
And the old fuse box was changed out to this.
DSCN0009 by Tim Brown, on Flickr

In the pic above you can see the rust splash. That is from a connector inside the wiring harness. Got that cleaned, put some more solder on it and then liquid tape. Pics to follow.
The carbs are stripped and started on the front brake calibers.

 

Finished up the two front brake calibers. Now to put the carbs back together and see if this beast will run. Going to pick up another project bike today. XJ700 with a lift table for a great deal. Could not pass it up! I will add to that story once the deal go through today.

 

I noticed that the caliber is touching the disk on the right side. I think someone said they had the same issue and need to loosen the triples, and the front fender to take care of that issue. Does that sound correct?

 

Compress the forks several times to verify proper operation. With the axle secured just loosen the pinch bolt on that side - adjust the position of the right fork leg to center the caliber within the disk - tighten the pinch bolt.

 

Thanks Rooster53,
I have seen a video on YT of a guy doing that, makes sense. I also have noticed the left side of the headlight retaining rectangle looks a little dented, could have been down and caused the miss alignment issue.

 

Super fine rust everywhere! Wow not only the fuel bummed up but the bowls were just full of tank rust. Got them partly put together yesturday and I hope to finish them up today. Want to see if the bike runs before I go though the normal restore process. I am sure it will. Gas cap and key will have to be sourced too. Ebay or maybe someplace else for that. Need to check the headlight to see if I can bend it back into shape as well.

 

Nice 5 3/4" of snow we had last night...it is Nov right? Got the time to put the carbs back together today. Hope to see if she will fire up soon.
DSCN0024 by Tim Brown, on Flickr

 

DSCN0030 by Tim Brown, on Flickr
DSCN0031 by Tim Brown, on Flickr
Had to do something with that fuse box. Yes I know I have a over fuse in there...just a place holder for now. Fist time I have to either rebuild or replace the front brake MC. The plunger was stuck in the up position and is just nasty. I have it tipped upside down on the work bench with some solvent in it, but I think it might be toast.

 

Finally got back into the shed to work on some bikes! I got the Front brake master working and back on, still playing with the cable that was seized. The rubber coating on the cable was not broken so not sure what it was seized up. I would guess yrs of being out in the weather. Working on another set of carbs for the bike in the background, I want to do a bench test on both of them at the same time. I still need to star the paper work for this bike to get a title. Make sure it runs first and go from there.

 

The front brake cable finally came lose today. Still soaking and moving it to get the rust out of the inside. Looks like the cable is just fine, no nicks in it just a rust film as lube is put on it. I will keep at it and get it so there is not rust on the cable. I seem to have run into a issue with the right front brake caliber. I have seen this on another bike this summer as well and not too sure how they fixed it. The caliber seems to need a shim or the right fork needs to be moved. The right brake disk is hitting the caliber face.

Carbs checked out today, no leaks and wet set is done. Will be putting them on the bike shortly and see if this old lost project starts. If so, then time to do that minimal headlight and Avatar removal wiring on this bike. Going with a aftermarket round speedo/Tach and round headlight. If this bike had a better paint job and all the parts, panels and things I would keep it stock. But it does not, so changing a few things but not too much.

 

Got the front brake MC all working, I was glad I had a vacuum on hand as that worked well to prime the system. Still looking at that right caliber and how it seems to be hitting the right brake disk. Hmmm

 

Pics of the brake caliber...
DSCN0042 by Tim Brown, on Flickr

 

No oil in the oil window, no oil in bike? Check the oil plug, hand tight as was the old filter cap. No filter in the oil cover/cap. Replaced oil filter and buttoned it all back up, filled with oil. Decided to hand rotate engine around a few times as it was bone dry and sitting with no oil for how long? Took at look at all 4 pistons from the top just to make sure it was not nasty or something in them. Put each cylinder on TDC and sprayed some B12 chemtool in there to help brake up the carbon. Let is soak a bit and hit each one with high pressure air. That seemed to do the trick and really took a bunch of the crud off the top of the pistons.

Tried to start her and she wanted to, but nothing. Even tried to put my hands on the back of the intakes of the carbs to suck more gas in, nothing happening. Good spark, gas but nothing. Took a compression test, 100 psi across all 4, not good but should run. Gave her a hit of starter fluid in 3 &4 hit the starter and she started up, also started shooting all kinds of water out of the exhaust, after market 4-1. Let her warm up some with the normal steam, smoke and who knows burning off the engine and exhaust from sitting for yrs. I need to check valves and fix the valve cover gasket, good flow coming from above #3 cylinder flowing well. So more TLC but I know know that it is a keeper and not a parts bike. I was worried about the compression test being so low, how that maybe that will come up a bit once it gets running again. At least all 4 are very close to 100 psi.

 

your rings could be frozen may un freeze or may need some help.
a little oil in each cylinder will help tell you. if pressure goes up with oil its rings. if not check valve shims

 

I think the shims will be my fist look see. I also want to see if I can flush or clean the inside of the engine a little better too. Get some cheap oil and some type of flushing or cleaning agent in there to clean it up. I have never worked on a bike that didn't have a filter or at least old oil in it what I purchased it...this is a first for me.

 

rotella is 14$ a gallon

seafoam can be added to oil it will help clean out crud.

I add a little before oil change run it a few hundred miles then change oil and filter. cleans out oil level switch in the process.

you could mix wit oil and hand crank it it will pump oil through with the seafoam let it sit crank it some more then let it sit and drain it

 

Pulled the valve cover off today, gasket is done. Cracked in places and even broken in some places. The inside of the engine looks really good and clean. Will not be flushing the engine this time around. I will make it a short oil change cycle once spring gets to this area.

Took all the shims out and check specs at the same time. I just wanted to know what was in each. This engine is tight, cylinder #1 I couldn't even get the .oo3mm in to measure. So all 8 will need to be changed so will have to wait on the pool or ordering them. I want to take a look at the xj700 I am working on in case I can swap some of them over.

 

Fist off, nice to have the forum back up and running! Got the shims taken care of and the new gasket for the valve cover placed on the cover to get it to form. I have a placed and trying to get it to form a little bit. I might have to glue it in place on the cover side. Time will tell. I will be removing the AVATAR next getting it ready for the headlight and gauge change over.

 

I think you mean ATARI

Nice work bringing it back from the dead!

 

Lol you are right thanks for the correction. This is a pic of the gasket placement for fit and a little memory to the rubber before trying to place it. I think most folks even glue it in place on the valve cover side?
new valve cover by Tim Brown, on Flickr

Thanks for the comment, I just hate to see these nice old bikes go to a junkyard. I still have to do the paper work on this one to get a title but sense there is snow on the ground here 6 weeks of playing mail tag with the Wisconsin DMV is not a big worry.

 

Ordered the headlight and speedo for this bike. It will be interesting getting the wiring correct, but should be okay. Went with a speedo pickup on the wheel as the mechanical pickup speedo will be gone.

 

Got a new battery for the old girl today, got that on the charger after letting it sit with new acid in it. Who reads directions these day...lol. Pulled the 4-1 header as it really needs some TLC. Could not find any holes but I might do a smoke test before I finish up the prep for paint. Now being as cool as it is here, painting this header will have to wait a while. That or I heat it up with LP torch and as it is cooling (check with IR temp gauge) I can paint it and wish for the best? Not taking the header into the house and the shed only gets to about 60 F, still a little cool for painting.

I have learned to put the rattle can into hot water and let the soak up the heat for a better paint job.
Header by Tim Brown, on Flickr

Could not find a maker name or stamp on the pipe. Connector flanges are in place do to little lips on the header top as it goes into the head. SS clamp to connect to two parts together. I will have to think about upping the main jet too, as they are still stock. Have to pull the carbs for a little TLC anyway.

 

looks like a mac 4 to 1
got a photo of the end of the muffler

you could use a few heat lamps to heat it.

I needed to make an oven to cure epoxy. made it from ply wood lined with foil you can get it quite hot with a heat lamp focused on a sheet of steel

 

^^ I have seen a few vids about that and I do have a old plywood box that could be lined. I have a old think locker I could try too, could heat that from the outside even, no direct flame on the pipe . I will get a pic of the end of the muffler. I will do some looking at some Mac's and let you know. Thanks.

Yep looks like it is a Mac, but the end cap has a few more holes than the pic shows on most of them. There is one large exit hole in mine but then many other around the flat muffler plate. Looks to be factory or a good DIY job. I do know she is a little louder then I am used to...but I will deal.

 

that looks like my mac pipe, if the header flanges are soft as butter, it's a mac. i think the name and #'s are on the muffler

 

Looks like we had another gremlin his the server, that is too bad. I am glad we are back up, like coming to the board.

I agree with you I do think it is a Mac. Let the exhaust dry for a few days and put it back on, looks much better. Got the gauge and headlight in the mail. Gauge instructions leave a little room for error but that is okay. I will have to bend the mounting plate as the gauge sits a little too flat looking up to the sky mounted to the original holes for the rectangular headlight bracket. Cut the brakes off that as the new headlight will be connected to the top of the forks as with my BMW.

Most of the wiring is labled so I hope to get good progress today. Need to print out the OEM wiring diagram for reference.

 

This will work good going down the road, no issues with wind whip or anything flying apart.
20200205_144102 by Tim Brown, on Flickr
This was 1st stage in getting the gauge to work, some of the colors are off I think 1. The w/y wire in the directions was really their y/w wire, something I would do. Need to put some gas to her and get her running to see if all the lights word as they should. Then to cut and solder the wires nice and get them packed in there behind the round headlight (that will be mounted soon). Needed to get the gauge on and wires figured out before the headlight can cover them up.

That pic is bad...sorry but you get the idea.

 

You may want to check out my post as I'm doing very similar things especially with the gauge setup

 

Yes these cheap aftermarket gauges that some of us are getting are interesting to work with. I know on another bike I was having issues with the wheel calculation. Finally just did it the old fashion way and marked a line on the ground and tire, moved the bike enough to make the tire go one rotation, marked the ground the measured. Converted to cm and put that in the gauge. It right on now. I see from you post it was mentioned that I might have to put a 200 hm resister in line with the oil ground, hmm.

The directions for my gauge is in broken English and is not totally correct. Once I get it worked out I will take a pic of my wire brake down from gauge wire color to bike harness color. This is the gauge I am trying to wire in.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07K9QS2KY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

there is a resistor in the oem circuit it is in the diode block
the diode you see is to solinoid for the starter button oil light test

 

I don't plan on hacking upthe OEM harness anymore than I have to, so maybe I will not need to add a resister? I still think the gauge will not work for the oil ckt and I will have to add a light indicator anyway.

 

Interesting day, we had a big snow storm on the 9th, took care of all of my responsibilities of cleaning said snow, took most of the day. Morning of the 10th, head back to my place to find fresh track in my uncleaned driveway. Long story short, the CCTV system has a young man with his Ford SUB coming into my drive and braking into my shed. No worried XJ's are all safe and no damage. He did take my air compressor and cost me a $200 door plus dead bolt. He broke the older door off the three hinges on its side and pushed past.

Local Deputy has the vid from the CCTV and seems to know the kid. Could not tell me his name and I really don't want to know. Press charges but will never see restitution or my air compressor again. Have no idea how long it will take even with being caught on CCTV and turning it in the same day. Miss him by about 15 mins...that would have been interesting. Anyway had to vent!

 

I hope this kid chooses an honest line of work after this. I thought about a CCTV system but my shepherd has a very intimidating bark.
I had 2 bikes stolen when I was younger and lived in apartments. Thieves are scum.

 

Yes they are scum. If he persists stealing he will meet his nemesis. Good you have the CCTV Timbox.

 

I almost fell over today, I had a call from a "restricted" number and it was the Deputy that took my report. He found the home of the guy and this guys Mother ID-ed him as the one from the CCTV. I think the Deputy knew the kid right off the bat from the images. The guy is still at large but the air compressor he stole from me is back with me!!

I could get on a huge soap box about this stuff, but I am happy to have the person ID-ed and they are actively looking for him. I sure beefed up thing around my house and sheds yesterday.

 

Hi Tim, start two weeks ago with a Seca from 1981. I stripped completely and it will be a project of 3/4 year. I am thinking of starting with a cafe racer.....or bobber. But maybe bring the Seca originally. A lot of parts are missing, broken or damage.
Nice te read your story and from others. So many people around the globe are working, building and creating nice stuff with this bike.
Success and I will follow the process.
Kind regards
Peter Arnhem, The Netherlands

 

You have nice looking fender paint there Derksen...my bike is so sun bleached.

 

Put the new LED blinders on the other day, all but one of the factory ones were gone or broken. Have to change out the turn signal timer for a newer one that will allow for the LED resistance change.

Have most of the wiring on the gauge taken care of. I have to swap out the left handle bar control, looks to be easy but then again I think I have to change out the clutch swx or just remove it. Tank cap came in and the tank is clean, first time for everything (that being a clean tank). Still need to to some fabbing to get the round headlight to work and get all the wires to hide and stay out of the way. Should be warm enough in the next few days to even get one or two of the project bikes on the road for test rides.

 

Got the new solder by heat gun connectors in today. I started to shorten up the wiring harness so I can hide it behind the new round headlight. Those little connectors are great so far and only needing a heat gun. That saves on solder and a solder gun. I would have used shrink tube on the solders as well so new connectors and a heat gun and you are good to go. I highly recommend them.
https://www.amazon.com/Kuject-Conne...AD77KG8DFJW&psc=1&refRID=P88Y6GVYXAD77KG8DFJW

 

Got the carbs sync done, bike runs very well but that 4 into 1 with no baffle (rusted out) is way loud, will need to fix that. I had a issue with that cheap digital gauge from Amazon. Found a few people on youtube that had the same gauge and used their guidance to fix the RPM issue. I have however not been able to get the front headlight to work. I did the wire bypass that I found on here but still no luck. I am thinking of just taking most of the wiring harness out and just do a minimal wiring like the cafe bikes have. I know that this makes the headlight come on just with the key, but I was going to put a on and off switch on the headlight.

Here is what I will use as a blueprint. Thanks for having this on the site.
1 by Tim Brown, on Flickr
2 by Tim Brown, on Flickr
3 by Tim Brown, on Flickr

 

Got all the electrical taken care of, headlight is on a swx. I put a aftermarket petcock on the tank, I don't think it flows enough fuel. Bike wants to run but I can tell it is starving for gas. Will have to buy a NOS or find another. Do like the way the Seca's feel with you ride them, more of a sit on bike than a sit in, that is my style.

 

So would like a little help on this one. Fist time I have been turned down by the WI DMV to get a bonded title. The State said they could not read the VIN, I get that and maybe the pic is bad. Took it down to the very nice police and they also could not read it. They put a "1" and a "7" in the location that is not very clear and nothing came back. If I do a VIN check says the "A" means it is from 1980 but the sticker says 8/82.
DSCN0006 by Tim Brown, on Flickr
20210305_150718[1] by Tim Brown, on Flickr

 

You only need to show them the stamped VIN.

 

It appears that either VIN has been removed from my states title records. I guess it is a thing they are doing now. Once the bikes get old enough and they have not changed hands in a while they more or less just remove them from their data base. This is my case, the WI police can't find information on either of those vins. I guess I might have to do the Vermont route if I really want to title this project. Just feel a little deflated about the bike now...good night sleep should fix that.