1982 Yamaha XJ550 Maxim NOT STARTING

Howdy! I'm new to the forum, and working on motorcycles in general, haha. I recently traded an 80cc 2 stroke motorized bicycle that I built in my dorm room for an '82 XJ550 Maxim that doesn't run. I have already swapped out the battery, ignition coils, and brake lever, all of which I know were bad. My main problem now is that when I switch the engine switch to "run," and press the start button, nothing happens, except the oil light turns on as I press the start button in. The starter solenoid doesn't even click, though! When I jam a screwdriver in between the 2 posts on the solenoid, the engine turns over, but still doesn't start. I took the right-most plug out and grounded the body to the head of the engine, and it doesn't get spark. I'd like to fix the starter button issue first, however, so that it's easier to troubleshoot the rest of the problems. Any ideas on what is wrong with it? I do have a new starter solenoid coming in sometime this week, if USPS can get it together, because the whole solenoid just looks super sketchy and I want to replace it anyways. Thanks in advance! I look forward to posting all of my dumb noob questions on here lol

 

side stand switch? My 650xj will do the oil light thing if I try to start it with the side stand down.

 

I'll check it, thank you! For some reason I haven't checked the switch yet, haha. I always make sure it is up when I try to start it, but the actual switch itself might be messed up. I might just try to bypass the switch if I can find the wires, this whole bike is a big mess...

 

on the 550 under the seat you will find the sidestand safety relay you can remove it to bypass side stand , it is best to repair the switch on ssidestand and reinstall relay after you get bike started and running, it is easy to fix spray some cleaner into switch and some silicon lube.

and the oil light is made to come on when starter button is pressed, to test the bulb. you will want to know when your low on oil when riding.

when you chang the oil turn on the key before refilling to test oil level switch it is good to know it is working too.

a little seafoam in oil will clean out sludge in swittch and motor about 200 to 300 miles before oil change.

 

clean the connections at solinoid for battery and starter could be dirty. sounds like a solinoid issue because the oil light comes on showing you have made the connection to ground.

any connections you dissemble clean and grease. use electronic contact spray and dielectric grease(silicon)


BUT if your sidestand switch is not working the starter will not spin.

 

Replace the start solenoid they are cheap , I bought 2 when I replaced mine, the old solenoid was intermittent.

 

UPDATE: The starter solenoid finally came in last Friday, so I swapped it out and now the bike will turn over with the start button under it's own power. However, I'm still not getting spark. The relays are all working (to the best of my knowledge, I'm going to buy a multi meter some time soon and start testing various connections and such) and I have bypassed the Side Stand Switch and Clutch Safety Switch. I did two simple spark tests using the spark plugs and a screwdriver, and I don't seem to be getting spark to the spark plugs. What all should I check, and preferably in what order should I check?

 

first make sure the run/kill switch is in correct position. this happens a lot

then ohm out the ignition coils both primary and secondary
ohm out the pickup coils from the connector at the tci
if in spec then its time to chase voltage.
measure voltage at fuse both sides then at red/white wire at the tci
all voltages should be close to battery voltage ther will be slight drop at every connector
the connector near the ignition coils coming from right control has been an issue in my 550s you have to remove the tank to get to it.

any connector you undo clean with electronic contact cleaner and add some dielectric grease

if you find a large voltage drop follow back to closest connector up stream test and clean.

I would clean the ignition switch

Clean and lube the ignition switch
the right control with kill/run switch can be cleaned just be carful not to lose the little bb in the mechinisim


on tci there is a black white wire with bullet connector disconnect it leave it disconnected when testing

 

The Ultimate Relay, Switch, Sensor, and Diodes Guide
specs from above link
XJ550 models:

Pick-up coils:
650 ohms +/- 20% = 520 ohms to 780 ohms acceptable range


Ignition Coils:

Primary side (input from main wiring harness):
2.5 ohms +/- 10% = 2.25 ohms - 2.75 ohms acceptable range

Secondary side (spark plug wires, without their end caps):
11K ohms +/- 20% = 8,800 ohms - 13,200 ohms acceptable range


Spark plug caps:
10K +/- 20% = 8,000 to 12,000 ohms per cap acceptable range

Spark plugs:
0 ohms per plug

 

@XJ550H Thank you so much! I got this bike off of a trade from a budget build 80cc 2 stroke that I put about $175 into, I'm hoping to fix this up and flip it sometime this year! Hopefully I'll get the chance this weekend to start diving into the wiring and throwing stuff at walls!

 

if you need your tci tested to rule it out as the problem I can do it for you in my 550 would cost about 3 dollars each way shipping

 

Thanks! I might hit you up on that in a couple of weeks!

 

UPDATE: Bypassed some things and replaced some other things AND SHE STARTED for the first time since (I believe) '84! Planning on starting a new minimalist wiring harness tomorrow, and I was thinking of running 10-12 gauge wiring throughout the whole thing. Does anyone think those numbers present a problem? Also plan on replacing the headlight with an aftermarket LED one, so hopefully that wiring doesn't present an issue! Thank y'all for all of your help so far!

 

if you go to our supporting vendor it this thread is the size wires needed for the amps you will carry 10 or 12 guage wire would be a waster of copper for most applications
XJ PARTS CATALOG, SECTION D: ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

 

Already got both of those downloaded haha, been studying the crap out of 'em. If I were to run 1 consistent gauge of wire throughout the whole diagram, what do you think a good size would be? I'm just going to get a big spool of one color wire and some black to know what is ground and what isn't.

 

I like to use wire rated 2 times the amps of the fuse so 16 ga wire for most circuits

If the wire OD is 2.03mm - 2.19mm (.0799 to .0862"), then it's 20-gauge (20g) AWG or 0.40mm squared (metric size).
NOTE: 20g wire is rated for a maximum load of 11 amps of current at 12VDC.

If the wire OD is 2.26mm - 2.42mm (.0890 to .0953"), then it's 18-gauge (18g) AWG or 0.75mm squared (metric size).
NOTE: 18g wire is rated for a maximum load of 16 amps of current at 12VDC.

If the wire OD is 2.48mm - 2.64mm (.0976 to .1039"), then it's 16-gauge (16g) AWG or 1.25mm squared (metric size).
NOTE: 16g wire is rated for a maximum load of 22 amps of current at 12VDC.

If the wire OD is 2.89mm - 3.05mm (.1138 to .1201"), then it's 14-gauge (14g) AWG or 2.00mm squared (metric size).
NOTE: 14g wire is rated for a maximum load of 32 amps of current at 12VDC.
NOTE: 14g wire is the largest size wire normally found in the wiring harnesses on these bikes. Battery cables and the solenoid-to-starter motor cable are larger, of course, but of all the main harness and accessory wiring, 14-gauge is the largest that you'll find.

If the wire OD is 3.49mm - 3.65mm (.1374 to .1437"), then it's 12-gauge (12g) AWG or 3.00mm squared (metric size).
NOTE: 12g wire is rated for a maximum load of 41 amps of current at 12VDC.

If the wire OD is 4.32mm - 4.48mm (.1701 to .1764"), then it's 10-gauge (10g) AWG or 5.00mm squared (metric size).
NOTE: 10g wire is rated for a maximum load of 55 amps of current at 12VDC.

 

Bet thanks. So if I just get hella 16 gauge wire for the minimal harness I should be good to go?

 

yes . except for the wire that runs from main fuse to ignition switch you could run 2 wires and the wire that feeds back to fuses.

 

UPDATE: So the bike came with those crappy pod filters, causing it to run super lean. While I was tuning the carbs, I believe one of the pistons was getting too hot, due to said leanness, and I'm pretty sure blew a piston ring. New game plan is to tear the bike down to the frame and rebuilt it how I want it. First step, however, is to rebuild the engine. Does anyone have any leads on a complete engine rebuild kit? i.e. Pistons, wrist pins, piston ring sets, piston pin bushings, rod bearings, main bearings, complete gasket kit, etc...

 

The rings are hardened steel. The piston is soft aluminum. Heat from lean conditions will melt a hole through the piston, I've never seen rings fail from this.
Buy yourself a compression tester, this will tell you if you need to start stripping the motor apart.

Chacal could probably assemble you such a kit. This might sound harsh, but you are discussing a 550 Maxim with a $2,000 value for a museum quality bike.
What you've listed can easily exceed this.
Buy yourself a compression tester, this will tell you if you need to start stripping the motor apart.

 

Doesn't the engine need to be able to turn over in order to run a compression test?

It's more of the idea that this is my first motorcycle, and I have nothing to do now that everything is shut down, and the whole reason I got this bike (for $150, mind you) is so that I could learn a bit more about motorcycles and how they work. Knowledge is more valuable than money, these days, chief!

 

Motor does need to turn for compression test would suggest using a car battery as referred to in information overload

In the long run it would be cheaper and easier to find a used motor instead of trying to rebuild yours but you want to confirm that it actually needs to be rebuilt in the first place compression test will help that any issues possibly leak down test as well

 

Thanks! Turns out I didn't mention it in the previous posts (I meant to oops) but the motor is seized now. I've got WD-40 siting in it now, hopefully in the next few days that will do something. I'll try and keep y'all updated on whats happening

 

Ouch, sorry to hear she froze up on you. There are much better things to use than WD-40. PB Blaster or a mix of acetone (paint thinner) and ATF to 50/50 mix. Sounds like she got really hot while tuning. Next time you get her running put a fan in front of the bike it will really help while you tune.

If you want to learn how to work and or tear down a engine you have to option to do that. I don't know if I would want to start my first time with a seized engine? Trying to get the jugs off a seized engine is not fun and most times folks lose their cools and end up breaking off some cooling fins.

A known good engine would be best and I would think you can get one at a good cost. Best of luck on your direction you go with.

 

How do you know it’s seized?
I suggest removing the left crank end cap and try rocking the motor back and forth with a 19 mm open end wrench

 

I know because that's what I did haha.

 

Alrighty sounds good, I'll look into it! Thanks man!

 

You should pour ATF (automatic transmission fluid) and acetone let soak for a couple of days. Do NOT use the starter, pull off the left hand crank cover , put a wrench ( as I recall it is 19mm ) turn clockwise . If you can turn over with the wrench , pull all 4 plugs try turning over with the starter( CAUTION: do this outside, reason cylinders with ATF, WD40 ETC with the plugs removed will spray your ceiling in you garage...don't ask how i know this) . If you get it to turn over , drain the oil and refill , reinstall the plugs and then see if bike starts.

 

Just throw a old rag over the engine it will catch most of the flying stuff from the cylinders. No real reason to move the bike unless you would like to.

 

Thanks for the tips! Unfortunately, the motor is still seized. And I definitely got oil all over my garage wall and ceiling lol! I'm still debating whether or not I should start tearing into the engine, or try and find a used one that I can just slap right on there. Thoughts? Also, I'm looking to replace the gauge cluster (speedometer, odometer, etc.) and I was wondering if y'all had any suggestions for which ones to use? Thanks again!

 

A used engine is probably best option , look on ebay, or a cycle salvage yard , Wisconcin Cycle salvage, Cycle Recycle Part 2 are two places you might call , expect to pay 5to6 hundred with shipping ...you could swap in an engine and tear down original afterwards.

 

Another update because this stuff is fun, but this time, I'm going to updating a decent bit:

I tore the bike down to the frame a little while ago and took a cutoff wheel and some sandpaper and ground the frame down to bare metal, slapped some black point on there, and got started with reassembly. I don't plan on reusing the stock wiring harness, except for maybe some connectors that I don't feel like setting up on the new harness. Again, going to be making a minimalist harness from scratch.

I ordered new turn signals, a custom tail light, custom headlight, and new headlight housing (since the new headlight is a 7" light, instead of the stock 8"), but that won't be here for a month or two because of this virus! By the grace of God, the taillight actually mounted right up (with a few love taps) to the stock mounting locations on the rear fender, so there's no need for me to fill in some of those holes. The headlight is an aftermarket Jeep headlight, which looks super cool on our 550s, and it's bright as hell lol.

I'm in the market for an aftermarket speedometer/tachometer, so if anyone has any suggestions for one that doesn't break the bank, that would be awesome!

Now for the fun stuff, I found some free time the other day to start tearing in to the engine. Tore off the top end to get to the pistons, and the left-most cylinder was, not even kidding, shattered. The top of the piston scraped against the wall of the cylinder and literally exploded. 5 minutes later, I've got the piston off, inspecting the rest of the engine for damage, and we're good! I was originally planning on just replacing the piston, until I pulled the cylinders and saw that the bottom of the same sleeve had broken as well. Again, every other piston is and cylinder is perfectly fine! Once all of that was removed, the crank turned like butter on that Benihana hot table that they cook in front of you on. I found a decent set of used pistons and cylinders on ebay that I will most likely order if I ever get employed again lol.

I'm waiting for a buddy of mine to finish sandblasting some parts for me (It's been 2-3 weeks dude come on) so that I can start getting the rear suspension back together, BUT the rear brake assembly came out and I cannot, for the life of me, figure out how to put that thing back together properly! If anyone could drop a picture of their assembly (where that spring is on that pivot point on the inside of the bike) that would be awesome as a reference!

So far, I'm on track to be well under budget ($1000 including the bike) to get this thing looking good again and back on the road, for the first time in 35 years! Want to thank you guys again for answering all of my ridiculous questions so far, and I hope you're ready for more, because I'm only just getting to the fun part!