What did you do to your Yamaha today?

Reinstalled the tank and started the bike for the first time since last August. Idle definitely seems smoother with the sequential injection, and the exhaust and oil filter / cooler work seems good:

(I had cut off one of the header pipes to knock some major dents out of it, then welded it back on. Cut the muffler apart to weld in a catalytic converter. Installed a new baffle. And added a new oxygen sensor bung to move the sensor to a better location. I had also made a spin-on oil filter conversion, and built an oil cooler to work with it.)

However, I did find a fuel leak which looks to be a crack or pinhole in the fuel rail itself, so I'll need to pull that back off and see about fixing it. Once that's taken care of, there's still tuning work to do. Idle seems good, but return to idle from higher RPMs has some issues.

 

Got the carbs back together as far as having them bench synchronized. Going to set the float heights tomorrow; as well as wet setting the carburetors. I am feeling suspiciously confident about my rebuild. I let the carb bodies sit in cleaner for about 12 hours each. And I was able to physically blow air through the enrichment circuit from the bottom end by my own breath. Yes it was disgusting; but I have previously had many many many problems with the bike not wanting to start; as well as the enrichment circuit now aiding as it is supposed to. All that being said I am feeling very excited about this weekend. Hopefully I will get my bike fired up this weekend..... I can certainly dream of it.

 

If you were blowing through the enrichment tube with just your Breath, be aware that there is a tiny hole just before where the tube enters the carb body. You MAY feel like air is going all the way through when it’s actually just coming out that hole. You have to learn that feel. Otherwise, compressed air supplies so much more that it ensure clear passages

 

I did happen to see the very tiny hold that you are referring to. That being said I had previously pushed compressed air through the passage. Got the carbs fully assembled. Did a bench synchronization to them. Set the float height; to I believe it’s supposed to be 14.5 mm. +\- a little bit not much again increments. Then did a wet set on the carbs. They all looked pretty good. Did a minor adjustment to all of them. Emptied once I rechecked; put the carbs on the bike; got the carbs attached at all points. And wa la the bike fired up beautifully !!!! Never had that happen before. I guess there is definitely something to be said about cleaning or replacing or adjusting anything the right way the first time around. Thanks church of clean. And Dave aka Hogfiddles I know I have pestered you’re with more questions than what probably seems right. All that being said I have a lot of work still to do. Gotta put everything back together now after the winter tear down for the full restoration and repaint.

 

17.5mm initial. You might find your fuel levels a bit high now. But if it’s running, get your running sync done and see what you think.

Ask all the questions you want! Doesn’t bother me at all . That’s why I’m here !

dfox

 

Would a slightly higher fuel level in the bowls cause a little bit of a wandering idle?

 

Possibly, but if you haven’t done a running sync yet, that’s gonna be the biggest contributor.

 

Makes sense Swae just curious. Like I said still have a lot of work to do. But I need to buy a running synch tool and the colortune tool.

 

Today I pulled the tank and the fuel rail, and, eventually, found the leak, which was a crack/gap in the solder at the edge of the #3 injector socket... I had thought it was leaking from #2. I also modified the fuel rail to bring injectors 1 and 4 down a bit, as they were a little too high. Vacuum tested it with the injectors installed to make sure it was sealed... as pressure testing it off the bike isn't something I'm set up for.

Fuel-proof paint is drying on it now.

 

Started pseudo-rehab of a 650rj tank that came from John Fuller awhile back. Some of you had seen pics of either the bike, the carbs, or other parts. I’m still feverishly working my way through the carbs.

I didn’t take a good “before” pic of the tank, but you’ll be able to read between the lines with the pics.

I decided before just drilling the cap, “ maybe, juuust maayyybee, it won’t be seized and I can pick it. There was no key for the cap. Well...........

I got it to turn


it popped up with just a teeny bit of persuasion


Eeewwwww


Amazingly enough everything can apart easily. The core slid out like it should, I carefully inserted an extra key that I have into it to hold everything in place. I found one worn out and broken wafer. I’ll leave that as is for now.... I’ll take to a locksmith and have them replace the broken wafer and then cut a new key for the core. I’m not going to have it set to match my extra key.... I’m keeping that separate for times that I may need it—— for like a job like this.....


So, how’s the tank itself—- rusty,rust holes, sun rotted emblems, STINKY MESS INSIDE... amazingly not leaking. Hmmm, not leaking— should be with those rust holes. Guess what, the rust just looks bad. With a strong poker, there are no holes or soft spots!!!much of the tank has had the clearcoat wind blasted Over the years. Looks like it’s gonna clean up half decent. Yeah, the half that still has old clearcoat isn’t as nice.... lol.
see what I mean?? Oh, don’t breathe too deep,though


It’s actually presentable!! Well, as long as I can get the INSIDE cleaned.


Oh, “Wait! What about the cap?” You ask? Well....
(BTW, the 3 squares of toilet paper are from the end of a now-empty spare roll that I had in my shop for years in case I cut myself. Don’t worry-no good rolls of TP were harmed in the making of this forum)


I need new chrome, and I need a new rubber/metal insert. Other than that, this cap will turn out juuuust fine

That will be another time when I have the time.

dfox

 

That's about the gnarli-est thing I've seen in a while...…...

 

Well, crap. After reinstalling the fuel rail, it seemed to take initial pressure just fine, but, after a few minutes running, I still have a leak. Not sure whether it was something I just couldn't see with vacuum testing, or if something cracked from the tension of clamping the fuel rail back in place.

Oh well... at least I'm getting better at removing and reinstalling it.

 

Ok, the gas cap is all apart, ready for total re-do.

the ball valve hole is clear


the breather vent hole is clear


the pitted cover is off, and the o-ring is actually still in really good shape!!


the breather filter is totally clogged, but that’s ok.... it’ll get replaced anyway.

The tank has been power-flushed to get rid of much of the loose junk. Now it is sitting full to the top with 1.25 gal of muriatic acid diluted with water and filled right just below the filler lip. It’s gonna sit like that for a couple days now.

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Gas-Tank-C...079493?hash=item3b2eca4985:g:5vcAAOSwRxJbxnsU

Change out the key lock and be happy.

 

But then I would be re-doing THIS one. Yup, I could just get a cheap crappy one like that. But then I wouldn’t be showing anybody how to actually disassemble a cap and repair it, now, would I? Considering the condition things were in when I got this tank, and this rack, I made it a challenge to rebuild, not replace, other than little bits the HAVE to be replaced. Cost was not a determining factor here.

besides..... why go get a cheap part off eBay when I could just pull a better one off a parts bike that I already have??

 

Continuous on the effort to restore as much as possible is very admirable; and as far as I am able to attest that must be a large part of where the knowledge and experience comes into play with being able to instruct the newbies around here....

 

So many times we hear gas caps that are not venting the tank properly and causing the fuel to stop flowing. (this pertains to vented caps....not the california non-vented caps) Here’s why: scroll back up to the last few pics of the cap. There are some things to look for.

1.if you look at the top of the casting—see the holes on either side of the cylinder hole? See the channels they are in? That’s what allows air to move around under the chrome and allow the tank to vent/breathe.

2. Turn the casting over. Now you can see the holes from the other side. The bigger hole has a brass sleeve that slides in and holds a very small filter in place. That is the breather. The other hole simply has a ball bearing in it. That is supposed to keep fuel from spilling out if the tank flips upside down. Notice that from the top, those two holes are “Connected”.....that allows air to circulate and avoid a vacuum. When tank caps get clogged and prevent air from moving, then up have fuel delivery issues......vacuum lock.

3. The third component, which I do have to replace is the big rubber gasket. That is molded around a metal plate that is connected to the cap, and has four springs under it to maintain contact and seal. That keeps everything else in the tank, and everything else out, too.

the little bits and pieces that go on the underside of the Cap are all available from Len, too, BTW.

 

So, what how did the rest of the tank turn out?

Well......

inside—


outside


The tank was filled with a 25% HCL/75% water solution for 24hrs. Then flushed with a hose flood for about 10 min, then drained and standing water was wicked out with a cloth. I set it on top of my wood stove to finish drying. It’s all ready for a phospho bath inside. All I need to do it use compressed air and a vacuum to get out any residual dust.

As far as outside, I’ve cleaned it about as much as I’m gonna do. The paint that is exposed cleaned nicely. The rest is not quite as nice because the clear goat is still there and the darker areas is because of The oxidized zone between the bare paint and the basically solid clearcoat. I did nothing underneath. It’s solid, just needs a meeting with a wire brush then cleaning. I did notice a little drip at the back right corner, but when I wiped it off, it didn’t show up again, so either it is was minuscule leak, or some water that dripped when I sloshed things around.

I’m going to leave it as is, and if it needs a small repair sometime, it’ll be almost hidden by the seat anyway.

Now, to get back to the gas cap.... I did find a very nice midnight maxim cap that has no key. I think that is going to be the donor cap for the repair. Yesh, I know I could just get a key made, but that is not the point here. The point is to repair THIS cap. Then when I’m done, this cap is going to go on my 650rj.... why??? Because I’m changing the color from USA silver to Canadian red. The gold cap with be a nice touch of bling.

 

Pulled the fuel rail again and found and fixed the rest of the leaks. There were three more! One tiny one, and two even tinier ones. Couldn't really even see them by pulling vacuum on the fuel rail. Instead had to plug it and immerse it and pressurize it with compressed air. Will reinstall it tomorrow and start some tweaking of the tune... as much as I can do in the garage, anyway.

 

Need some help!!
I’ve had my 700 running for a bit now. Went to start it today and it turned over once then that was it. No more clicking sound when I turn the key on. If I jump the relay the starter will spin but not start.

Yesterday I pulled the reed switch for the auto cancel feature and removed it and changed the oil. The only things I’ve done since it last ran.

 

How old is the battery? How long did the bike sit for between rides?

 

Battery works fine, it’s somewhere else
Update:
If I jump 12V to the red/white wire going to the relay assembly, it clicks and I can start it. Guess I have to figure out where that goes....

 

Time to start looking at schematics wooohoooo!!! Love electrical most people hate it.

 

Man I’m trying. Trying to keep my eyes from crossing, lol

 

Ha I can imagine; something to be great full for; I work on 1 ton diesel trucks and such they have some very complicated wiring.... whenever I work on my bike it’s like a walk in the park. You just have to have a moderate level of understanding on how the bikes work electrically. You can do it though.

 

How do you know the battery is still good?

 

I put a plate on Lazarene, recently acquired 750 Midnight Maxim, and took her for a fresh tank of gas. Her first time on the road since likely 2007 per the old stickers.

 

So I decided to check my ignition fuse...that was the culprit. It was loosely holding the fuse on one side. Cleaned the contacts, opened it up a little and it’s clicking and firing up. was worried it something more complex.

 

The battery tests well and charges well while running.

 

How are you testing the battery?

 

Installed the fuel rail again. All good... no leaks! Also swapped out some of the oil. Only about 2Q drained out, without dumping the filter. Swapped in 2Q of the Mobil 1 4T 10W40, which is what Mobil recommended via their web site contact us form. Starter clutch is happier - not perfect, but much much better.

Ran the bike for a while and did a bit of tuning. Fighting with why it won't go into closed loop idle. Other than that, though, things looking pretty good. Oil cooler got up to about 165F after a while running on the center stand. Exhaust before the cat was 95F, after the cat 105F, at the cat 210F, and down the tailpipe baffle more like 500F! So the cat is definitely catalyzing.

 

Ordered an alternator chain guide. Looking forward to splitting the cases and changing it.

 

Do a write-up with lots of pics as you go

 

Will do I will replace the starter clutch at the same time.

 

As bored as people are during quarantine, I can almost believe that you are looking forward to it.

 

I would start working on it right now if I had all the parts lol.

 

Fixed the configuration for closed-loop idle control and tuned the fuel map a bit for no load areas.

Checked how the oil cooler was doing. After fairly full warmup, the oil cooler was at 176F, while the top of the valve cover was 220F (intake side) and 231F (exhaust side).

 

What did I do with my yamaha today?? Well... I drained the gas out of one of the tanks so I could go ride.......

April 16, 2020

boy, that was a fun surprise

dfox

 

Well today with the same weather that hogfiddles was having so was I; I decided I wanted to test if my rebuild was actually effective; I.e. I started my bike while it was literally snowing.... did t think I would actually get that to happen. Wooohooo oh and I ordered a used tank for my 650 and it should be here on Saturday yay for that!!!! Getting pretty excited; soon enough riding season will be here and I will be one of the only ones on the rode. I am still working in one of the essential groups during these difficult times.

 

3 for 3 on the float bowl drain plugs, no damage. All 3 looked like this. Still in business. Gonna be Christmas around here next week with all the parts coming in.

 

But there’s FOUR....

I just drilled and removed 8 yesterday, and all four carb bodies/bowls were sent for vaporblasting. I found a guy near mush me who is supposed to be really good. So, he’s “being auditioned”. I sent a ‘regular condition set” typical of what I usually get or have, and I sent the really “over-the-top-BAD” rack that I’m slowly rehabbing. I’m interested in seeing what he really does do with them.

 

Dave.....make sure that your guy doing the blasting rinses/pressure purges the media slurry out of the small (internal passages), or otherwise it will harden and be a beast to get out........don't ask me how I know. This happened with me on two different batches that I had done, obviously the people assigned to blasting are good on the "blasting" part but not so attentive to the "cleaning the sludge out internally" part (as that involves an extra bit of meticulous handling and time to achieve).

 

I will.i figured I’d have to do that, but I will definitely remind him

 

First 3 were rusted and the heads were so mangled I didn’t have a single screwdriver that could get a grip. #4 was pretty rusted but the head was intact so I gorilla’d it out. I’ve drilled and tapped a few screws in the past, but feel pretty lucky to get away with 3 for 3 on those small screws

 

Swapped out my old fuse box with a new blade style one from Len, great kit and dead simple instructions. Went through my headlight basket cleaning/greasing connections as I'm trying to pinpoint the cause of some electrical gremlins.

 

Thought I would get my manual and/or some parts today.......no such luck. I’m getting tired of cleaning these things

 

This is using Phillips or JIS drivers? Most Philips screwdrivers will strip these JIS screw really easily.

 

Modified the stock front light brackets so they'd fit aftermarket LEDs, then painted them black. Now I just have to figure out wiring.

Also chopped and painted my front fender

Started taking apart a front caliper until I realized I bought the wrong rebuild kit. Cleaned it all up but gotta wait for the correct one to show up. It's all gonna be replaced or refreshed aside from the rotors which are fine.

 

I have a Sportster front fender (I think it’s from a sportster 883)available. anyone interested, pm me.

 

JIS by Vessel. The heads were expertly stripped/mangled when I bought it. I expected I’d find that. The carb bowl screws are correct except for one. They all came out easily enough. The diaphragm cover screws are functional for the most part but they kinda look crappy, 2 are missing lock washers, one has both a washer and a lock washer and they’re in 3 different lengths. 9 short, 5 medium, 2 long. I don’t like how they look, I’m gonna replace them all.