Regulator for Lithium ion battery

Hi everyone,
I have a 1982 XJ650RJ. I replaced the original lead-acid battery for a lithium ion battery from Shorai (model: LFX14L2-BS12). I was wondering if it was dangerous or bad for the battery to use the original regulator? It works fine, the bike runs great, but haven't tried it for long distance yet.

If it is not a good idea to use the original regulator, what should I buy?

 

I been using antigravity 8 cell with original regulator for a year and a half. My gauge has option for voltage display and it’s always in the needed range.

 

you need the regulator because it's a rectifier and regulator, AC from the alternator gets changed to DC for the bike by the rectifier then kept to the right voltage by the regulator.

 

ricks motor sports sells an updated reg/rec for lithium batteries. whats the difference? no idea. does it work? sure... will the oem work? yup and you have extra $$ in your pocket.

 

I'm in the same boat, I'm redoing the electrical system and would really like to save the space and weight offered by the Lithium battery. My guy at the local Yamaha dealership said "look for three yellow wires
from the Regulator/rectifier if you have that you're good." I pretended to understand and said "I'll check"
Cheers, 50gary

 

in stebbers bobber he mounted reg and battery down at swing arm page 8 and 9
https://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/stebers-81-xj550-bobber.98704/page-9

 

What is a lithium battery?:

NOTE: there is a significant difference between a Lithium-Ion and Lithium-Iron battery. Typically you will not see Lithium-Ion batteries be used in motorsports batteries, so we will limit the discussion below of "lithium" batteries to Lithium-Iron batteries only.

Advantages Of Li-iron-phosphate (LiFePO4) Batteries:

Slow Discharge Rate: lithium-iron batteries have a huge advantage here because of its very slow discharge rate.

Weight (and thus size): Li-iron batteries have very low weights when compared to lead-acid batteries of the same specification. Because of this, they are preferred in racing bikes or in any case when the rider needs to achieve high performance from their bikes.

Design: LiFePO4 batteries can be fitted anywhere onto the bike, such as upside down or under seats, wherever the rider wants according to their needs.

Warranty: Li-iron batteries often have longer warranties than any other batteries. Some bike manufacturers even provide between three and five-year warranties if the battery is installed during the manufacturing process.


Disadvantages of Li-iron (LiFePO4) batteries:

Usage Limitations: LiFePO4 batteries cannot be used in conjunction with a total loss ignition system.

Charging System: the charging system used with the this type battery should be capable of maintaining a steady charging rate within the range of 13.6 to 14.4 volts. In the case of old or classic bikes, those that do not have such a charging capacity need extra upgrades. This can be costly and not always successful as it may, in certain cases, cause damage to the original parts.

Water: Li-iron batteries can handle only a small amount of water spray. They are not suitable when there is a significant danger of water ingress.

Discharge problem: if the lithium-iron battery is completely discharged, it will need to be charged fully before the next use using the charger supplied by the manufacturer. If it is not charged fully, the battery may sustain damage and its efficiency will start to degrade, reducing the life and use cycle of the battery.

Cold Temperatures: one of the most overlooked disadvantages of the Li-iron battery in relation to motorcycles is its performance in low temperatures. During the colder seasons, lithium batteries can take longer to work, the bike requiring some time to start. When this happens the rider must first warm up the engine by leaving it on for some time and then click on the starter. The Li-ion battery will only be able to supply proper voltage once it is heated to the required level.

Cost: lithium-iron batteries cost 30-200% more than a high-quality conventional or AGM battery, and their advantages must be weighed against their initial higher cost. Also, the quality of Lithium-Iron batteries varies somewhat dramatically depending on cost; the cheaper ones don’t have the internal safeguards and Battery Management Systems within their circuitry, which can lead to shortened life/failures.



Final Thoughts:

Our take is that unless you have extraordinary power or design demands, etc. then a good lead-acid battery (such as an permanently-sealed/maintenance-free AGM battery) is typically the better (and less-expensive) way to go:

https://advrider.com/f/threads/moto...gel-wet-lithium-iron-phosphate-lifepo4.757934



Finally, for what it's worth, in speaking with a large, well-known battery supplier, (tech dept., not a sales donkey), they remarked that although they make and offer Lithium Iron batteries for automotive and powersport applications, they don't recommend them for a number of reasons:

1) they have special charging system requirements, both for in-use and maintenance charging, which factory systems are not designed for (unless the system was originally designed for the use of a Lithium Iron battery). Quality LiFe have a on-board battery management system, which will shut the battery off f it detects under- or over-charge outside of a specified range.

2) These batteries were originally designed for hospital room use, as a way of providing individual-room back-up power for critical-care equipment in case the main power supply was interrupted and the facility back-up power system (generator) failed. In other words, they were, by design, to be used in a highly-controlled, thermally- and electrically -table environment.



However, Polock is an electrical guru, so his real-world experiences and knowledge should be considered. I just found it surprising that a battery mfg. would discourage the purchase of what is a very high-priced product and which is also probably a very high profit-margin item for them.........

 

some day i'm going to try a RC pack in the bike and this is how i think it might go.
3 cell battery will for sure will get over charged, that could lead to this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tatq8KcaGY0
a 4 cell battery won't get over charged on our bikes if the regulator is working right, but, the bike may not charge it enough to keep it healthy. once the voltage of the battery gets down to 12
the battery is damaged, no fire and explosion, it just doesn't work any more. like a rechargeable flashlight, it works then dims for a minute or two , then nothing
when i get around to trying this, i'll have a 4 cell battery that i don't trust in the quad anymore, a steel box to put it in, 10 foot jumper cables, a clear outside area, and a fire extinguisher.
then about 10 start/run cycles to let everything settle in.
now if i still have a bike, i might fit it in the bike and go for a ride and take a regular battery with me, just in case