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FZ600 Resto - the hotrod XJ

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by Simmy, Aug 19, 2016.

  1. Chitwood

    Chitwood Well-Known Member

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    As long as it gets squeezed into what little clearance there is on the interference fit, it should seal I would think. There's always green loctite. Not sure about its fuel resistance but they dont call it sleeve retainer for nothing.
     
  2. Simmy

    Simmy Well-Known Member

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    I liked your Loctite suggestion and picked up fuel resistant thread sealant.
    EE9A9208-8600-425C-9D7E-ACE14431E3BD.jpeg
     
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  3. Simmy

    Simmy Well-Known Member

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    sleek wind cheating styling evolved through the years for best performance.
    Same applies to the FZ!

    FZ w o tank.jpg
     
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  4. chacal

    chacal Moderator Moderator Supporting Vendor Premium Member

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    Look, there he is!!
     
  5. lostboy

    lostboy Well-Known Member

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    Who’s a good boy.
    Who's a good boy.
     
  6. Simmy

    Simmy Well-Known Member

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    On another post last summer I described how my dog knocked the FZ over and broke the RH mirror.
    Last night I finally received a replacement in the mail.
    Yamaha no longer sell these, it took about 9 months of searching Ebay to finally find a new in the box RH mirror.
    These mirrors are unique to this model. Rare find indeed.
     
  7. Simmy

    Simmy Well-Known Member

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    perfect day for a ride on my vintage sport.
    I shut it off here to take in the view and the bike was completely dead, no lights.
    I even hooked up booster cables from a car there but still no dash lights.
    Fortunately I was riding with friends, my brother came back with a truck and trailer and that was my ride, bummer.
    I installed this battery last year and I think I fried it when I initially got it, left it on the 2A charger for the night before I remembered.
    I think the battery is fried, its home on the charger now.
    IMG_1048.JPG
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    all the local ladies checking out my ride!
     
  8. hogfiddles

    hogfiddles XJ-Wizard, Host-Central NY Carb Clinic Moderator Premium Member

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    did you you check to make sure the side stand switch wasn’t stuck in a little bit?
    Did you check the fuses?

    FWIW—a number of years ago, I was out on my 900......about 45 min. From home, and was on my return home, carving my way through ilion gorge. The bike quit....lost power, no lights, nothing. Dead as could be. I rolled it around, and fortunately the gorge was down hill almost all the way, I silently rolled and rolled til I got to a co-worker’s house. We loaded into his truck and brought it home. Two days........dead. Nothing found. Third day, I was outside just standing next to the bike, had even touched it that day yet......just standing there, I heard the sound of a relay click. WTF?!?! Turned the key.....and the dash lights came on. Well, let’s see——. Got on, pulled the enricher and touched the start button—fired right up like normal.

    Has NEVER done it since, it was a one-time thing.....weird.

    Hope it’s simple for you, too
     
  9. Simmy

    Simmy Well-Known Member

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    Ya the fuse box was the first thing I checked, the main fuse looked good (still glass) but without a multimeter hard to be certain. I just checked it after the battery tender has been on it, still no juice.
    Could be the ignition switch also. Hopefully I get time to check it over with the mm tomorrow.
    Can't be the side stand because there's no dash lights at all.
     
  10. hogfiddles

    hogfiddles XJ-Wizard, Host-Central NY Carb Clinic Moderator Premium Member

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    Ok, then I’d look at main fuse or the clips for a break or even just oxidation thick enough to break current
     
  11. Simmy

    Simmy Well-Known Member

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    I pulled the 30A main fuse and tried one of the lower circuit fuses and got nothing.
    Do you know if dead battery can still prevent a booster battery from getting juice to the system?
    Does that make sense?
     
  12. Simmy

    Simmy Well-Known Member

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    I should mention the fuse box is new so no broken clips, no oxidation.
     
  13. hogfiddles

    hogfiddles XJ-Wizard, Host-Central NY Carb Clinic Moderator Premium Member

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    Hmmm
     
  14. hogfiddles

    hogfiddles XJ-Wizard, Host-Central NY Carb Clinic Moderator Premium Member

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    Check them anyway, then onto the switches, I guess. Any chance you hit your kill switch by accident? I know someone who did that one time and didn’t realize it......no it wasn’t me
     
  15. Simmy

    Simmy Well-Known Member

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    Hmmm is right, I checked the bike with a m/m and I get 12.7V at the battery. That's obviously not it.
    I get the same reading 12.7V across the main fuse when the key is off.
    Turn the key on and I get a reading, but < 1V.
    Same thing on all the other fuses, I get just less than 1V with the key on.
    The kill switch does not change these readings.
    Where does that point?
    I'm suspecting the main ignition switch.
     
  16. hogfiddles

    hogfiddles XJ-Wizard, Host-Central NY Carb Clinic Moderator Premium Member

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    Open the headlight Bucket and see if the clip fell apart
     
  17. Simmy

    Simmy Well-Known Member

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    no headlight bucket on the FZ. If I get time today I'll remove the gas tank and start fiddling with all the connections.
    I'll unplug the main switch and jump the wires like a functioning switch if I don't find anything obvious.
     
  18. hogfiddles

    hogfiddles XJ-Wizard, Host-Central NY Carb Clinic Moderator Premium Member

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    Well, then look at the connections wherever they are and see if something came loose
     
  19. Minimutly

    Minimutly Well-Known Member

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    Just follow it allong from the battery, fuse holder?, ignition switch? Next set of fuses etc...
    Where you lose 12V is where...... you know the rest.
     
  20. Rooster53

    Rooster53 Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    It depends on how you are measuring that?

    Across the main fuse would be DMM negative on one side and DMM positive on the other side of main fuse, which should give you zero volts with the ignition switch off, and 12V with the key on "IF" the main fuse was blown or open from poor contact.

    If you are leaving the DMM negative on ground and getting 12V with key off and <1V with key on at the main fuse that indicates an issue at the main fuse or before (inclusion of the main fuse depends on whether you are on the input or output of the main fuse).

    The negative side should also be considered, and most likely if the cause would be at the battery cable to battery terminal. When you check the battery voltage with the key on be sure to check on the battery terminals and then move to the battery cable to ensure the connection is good at the post. If you have a headlight that illuminates with key on there would be a fair amount of current that will drop a good bit of voltage with a poor connection anywhere in the loop.
     

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