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Seca650 No spark

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by MrSeca, Apr 2, 2019.

  1. XJ550H

    XJ550H Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    if that is where it works thats where its set.

    mix screw is used to change the opening size/flow throughm the little hole in the carb throat. it fine tunes the circuit. then the 2-1/2 turn starting point is not used

    could be that when the orings were new 1/2 turn was 2-1/2 turns, that spec is just a starting point.
    could be the lower threads are gummed up not allowing you to go lower 38 years untouched.

    could also be you have a set of carbs with corse threads on the mixture screw

    xj4ever
    Thus the standard advice of using the 2.5-to-3 turns out (from bottoming) as a "starting point" for the idle mixture screw setting is really based on the use of the fine-pitched screws; the earlier coarse-pitch screws would need to be initially set at about 1.5-to-2 turns out as an initial starting point.
     
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  2. MrSeca

    MrSeca Active Member

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    Thanks for replying. I just managed to remove the plug for Carb 3 and 4. Carb 3 was just under 3 full turns and Carb 4 was just under 4turns! And both those spark plugs look lean! I like your idea that maybe it was gummed up on Carb 2 not allowing it to fully seat but my instinct while turning the screw doesn't tell me that was it. Who knows.
    I may just put them ALL at 2.5 and see what happens. Mixture screws have been the one thing no one can really tell how to do even with the Colortune. It seems experience on those things are the best teacher.
     
  3. Huntchuks

    Huntchuks Well-Known Member

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    I just ordered a CarbTune but earlier I would check the plugs and make small adjustments to the screws after a ride. I really can't tell much from engine sounds to make adjustments because there is no discernable change while even making radical screw adjustments. At the Carb Clinic a CarbTune was use and lo and behold, all cylinders were bunsen blue. Lucky. CarbTune on the way still because I will need it on my son's Kawasaki.
     
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  4. hogfiddles

    hogfiddles XJ-Wizard, Host-Central NY Carb Clinic Moderator Premium Member

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    That Was the Colortune. And yes, you had dialed them in pretty good by plug chops
     
  5. Huntchuks

    Huntchuks Well-Known Member

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    Nice catch on the typo. Thanks for setting the record straight. I also hate when things don't to make sense.
     
  6. MrSeca

    MrSeca Active Member

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    Are the respective gauge wires the same for either side of the fuse box? I'm getting all the materials I need to replace the fuse box. I had ordered one of Len's kits last time I did this and I have a lot of the wires left over. For some reason I feel like one of the wires, maybe the brown wire, is a larger gauge on one side then it's opposites.
     
  7. MrSeca

    MrSeca Active Member

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    Can someoe please please PLEASE tell me why my front calipers are dragging. No matter what combination I put them on in the end they just drag all day. The funny thing is that they were working fine before. I took the pistons out and polished them up. There was no calcification inside the piston chamber but I took the seals out to inspect them and they're fine. I cleaned and lubed up the caliper sleeve so now they move nice and freely. I bled the brake lines and put fresh brake fluid. Not to mention messed up my new paint job on the Master Cylinder from constantly filling it up with brake fluid, grrrrrr. I also took a piece of thin guitar string and went into that little pin hole in the Master Cylinder to make sure that is clean. .
    As far as reinstalling I would first tighten the axle then I would squeeze the brake lever to allow the calipers to find it's center before tightening the pinch bolts but after I squeeze the brake they would not retract enough to stop putting pressure on the rotor. They just squeeze up and never let go. I put on brand new steel braided brake lines about a year ago. Everything is clean with no leaks. What in the heck is going on? What am I missing? If I could have all the time back that I have put into installing calipers I'm almost sure it would be close to a year. Someone please help me.
     
  8. Timbox

    Timbox Well-Known Member

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    From what you have written, there still seems to be pressure on the brakes. Test it by letting pressure out of one of the bleeder bolt and see if they let lose. If they do, then you may have to take the MC all the way apart to make sure there is no blockage??? When you put new clear fluid in the MC when you pump the lever you don't see any cloudy fluid come up from the little hole? That would be a sign there is stuff on the plunger inside the MC still.

    If letting fluid out of the bleeder bolt does not fix the issue, see if you can move the calibers with your hands. As you pull and push them do they move freely?

    You didn't put new bake disks on the bike? Something too thick? Just trying to help you find the issue.
     
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  9. MrSeca

    MrSeca Active Member

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    I may be overthinking this. A friend of mine just said that it's fine so I'm not going to worry about this. Thanks for responding.
     
  10. XJ550H

    XJ550H Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    what did you lube it with? and removed seals but never replaced with new?
     
  11. MrSeca

    MrSeca Active Member

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    Sil-glyde from Napa Auto Parts. I kept the seals as they didn't seem to hinder the action of the piston going back and forth.
     
  12. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    Check that the return port in the master cylinder isn't clogged.
    Get new seals.
     
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  13. MrSeca

    MrSeca Active Member

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    I'm pretty sure the brake calipers are fine. A friend told me to feel the rotors after a ride to see if they're hot. They're cold. Not going to worry.

    So now I'm on to the rear shocks. I still have the original shocks on my bike. How do these things go bad? Does the spring just get so depressed that they have no more give? Can they be rebuilt? I don't think these shocks have oil in them. I'd much rather stay stock in the interest of money but I also don't want to kill my butt. If anybody can educate me on rear shock performance that'd be great.
     
  14. XJ550H

    XJ550H Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    oil leaks out springs get weak not rebuildable
     
  15. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    Breaks >>> engine. Stopping is the most important.
     
  16. MrSeca

    MrSeca Active Member

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    How would I know there is no more oil in them? It's the same oil from 38 years ago? Doesn't it go bad? Oddly enough there isn't a whole lot of info on rear shocks on the internet. I'm surprised.
     
  17. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    If the oil is low the back end will bounce while you ride, almost like a pogo-stick.

    Mineral oil does not go bad, but the rubber seals age and then stuff leaks out. Wear also adds small bits of metal and plastic to the oil, which hampers performance.
     
  18. XJ550H

    XJ550H Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    oil leaks out with every stroke if your lucky you will see it on the pavement before its all gone.
    your not going to find any rebuild info they were not made to be rebuilt.
     
  19. MrSeca

    MrSeca Active Member

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    Just did a compression test with my 650 and also checked the plugs. overall I'm pretty satisfied with the bike. I'm planning on doing a cross-country trip on my Seca 650 next may. Anyway, here are the results of my compression test:

    #1) 131 psi
    #2) 140
    #3) 129
    #4) 141

    Also, I took a pic of the spark plugs while they were out of the bike. Look a little lean to me but what do you guys think?
    Thanks in advance.
    MrSeca
     

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  20. Jonathan@southafricaxj750

    Jonathan@southafricaxj750 New Member

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