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took the carbs to church and now I cant get the bike to start

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by NikoRx, Mar 1, 2020.

  1. NikoRx

    NikoRx Member

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    That has been my logic as well and yes only 5k. been sitting nearly all its life in a barn until I bought it. I think it would be good piece of mind to make sure its all in spec but I don't see why it would be out of spec with only 5k on it... just thought it was weird that some of them drastically increased when a bit of oil was added.
     
  2. NikoRx

    NikoRx Member

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    Update: took the notes to a shop to get measured, come back a week later and they were never touched, poor guy went to the hospital and is out on medical leave. Spoke to the other owner and said that I would just measure them myself, he pointed out that I have some small pitting in the 4th bore.

    he recommended using a flex hone on the bored and then going from there. He saw crosshatching which is good.

    what do you guys think? Should I go through that? Or just put it back together? Here is a pic of the bore...

    I can’t feel it when using the skin on my finger but can more so with A fingernail
     

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  3. Simmy

    Simmy Well-Known Member

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    that is NFG
     
  4. Minimutly

    Minimutly Well-Known Member

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    Assuming @Simmy NFG means what I think you mean, I have to ask, how can you say that without actually checking the depth of thise marks?
    Could be they are just water marks, quick rub with wetordry 500grit would remove them? I guess it's about experience - so here goes - if the marks aren't actually deep, don't worry about them - if you run a nail across and it digs in its's deep, otherwise carry on - get a flexhone if you want. The ring gaps are a good if not the best indicator, remove the top ring, set in the bore (using a piston to square it), and measuremthe end gaps at three intervals - top middle and bottom.
     
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  5. Simmy

    Simmy Well-Known Member

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    @NikoRx I think @Minimutly is correct, the digital pics really make it look horrendous.
    Here's what I found in the 900 motor I just pulled apart. Also looks horrendous but not much you can feel.
    I think a honing might clean it up.
    900 bore.jpg
     
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  6. NikoRx

    NikoRx Member

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    Well I only had 1500 grit sandpaper and used that and now I can hardly feel it with my nail, will check the rings another day and hope that this is sufficient
     
  7. NikoRx

    NikoRx Member

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    Measured the ring gaps, all of the first ones were within spec (0.15-0.35mm) the second ones were all out of spec by +0.06mm. My climber manual has the same range for both the second and first, is that correct? And does it mean that I have to buy oversized rings for all of them?
     
  8. Minimutly

    Minimutly Well-Known Member

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    No, but you should check the width of the ring grooves in the piston - if all's well buy some rings, it will be fine.
    Just had a thought - what do you mean by "first one's" "second ones"? Are you meaning rings or measurement points?
    Ring gaps are one of the ways to check for wear - but you're measuring ring gaps you will be measuring bore aand ring wear.
    Measure ring wear at the top, where the rings don't wipe. Then measure bore wear from there down.
    Be methodical.
     
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  9. NikoRx

    NikoRx Member

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    first equals top ring and second is the middle ring i am measuring the ring end gaps will be going home after work and measure them in different parts of the bore as well. Just thought it strange that all of my second ring end gaps were all over the spec range...
     
  10. bigfitz52

    bigfitz52 Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    It's not going to idle down or behave itself until you manage a running vacuum sync. The accuracy of your initial bench sync has a great deal to do with how it will run initially, as do the (wet) float levels. Dave is right about the 550s, the Mikunis are sensitive little instruments and YICS is no help when it comes to carb sync. All it takes is one carb misbehaving to drag the others along.

    Another thing to keep in mind: the main idle adjustment is very sensitive. The point between not idling, idling, or running away is very narrow. Once you're close, don't make big adjustments; just 'nudge' it.
     
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  11. bigfitz52

    bigfitz52 Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    looks like my reply (above) is a bit out of step with the progress here and we've gone down a whole other rabbit hole.

    a quick note in regard to pistons and rings: "Oversize" rings are to fit "oversize" pistons when doing a rebore. You can't use "oversize" rings with standard size pistons; and depending on the bike (I can only speak for the 550s) pistons are unobtainium. You can get rings in almost all sizes, but you have to have pistons to go with them.
     
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  12. NikoRx

    NikoRx Member

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    Oh hell yes I did go down a rabbit hole haha! but, I have enjoyed tearing down the top end and seeing how it all works by hand. I am going to start putting it together this weekend with all cleaned and fresh pieces. Once that is all back together, I am going to double check the valve shims, recheck the fuel levels to be at 2mm or slightly above to 1mm. I have now thoroughly corrected my misunderstanding of the rings. They are fine to use according to Chacal (love this guy and his wisdom).
     
  13. NikoRx

    NikoRx Member

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    Hey guys! Been a while but got bored and decided to work in the cold garage this weekend. I put the top engine back together and am on the step in the manual to check the valve shim clearances. When I move the crankshaft clockwise I can feel something slip and it wont move the chain anymore. Is it possible I don’t have the tensioner tightened properly? That’s my guess as to what I probably messed up.

    many advice on the proper way to install the cam shaft tensioner properly? Or any ideas as to causes?
     
  14. NikoRx

    NikoRx Member

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    I believe I found the thread on how to fix it and the problem has been resolved
     
  15. Franz

    Franz Well-Known Member

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    Engine should be turned anticlockwise.
     
  16. XJ550H

    XJ550H Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    easy way to remember is motor turns the same way as the wheels
     
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  17. NikoRx

    NikoRx Member

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    That is a very easy and helpful way of remembering that. My issue ended up being that I didn't properly tighten the cam chain tensioner. That has been fixed though and If I need to slightly turn in clockwise it shouldn't slip. I can now check my valve shims next (again...)
     
  18. NikoRx

    NikoRx Member

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    Hey guys, put the top end of the engine back together and going through the shim clearance check and around the top end mark (T) when rotating counterclockwise I’m hitting some resistance but am able to push through but sometimes it’s easier and sometimes harder. Not sure what to do and am worried. Thoughts?
     
  19. XJ550H

    XJ550H Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    spark plugs in or out? fighting compresion if in.
    T(DC) is for the outer 2 cylinders it could be the lobes of cam on inner 2 cylinders making contact with shims.
    did you use assembly lube or oil the proper places
    check the timing of the cam sprockets again
     
  20. NikoRx

    NikoRx Member

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    Spark plugs out

    how would the inner cams be making contact if the outer are T(DC)? I understood that to be the furthest point from the shims.

    I had used assembly lube on just about everything I could think of. I didn’t put it on the chain or sprockets. But it was on the lobes and shims when I replaced them.

    by timing do you mean to have the dots on the cams matching up like the manual says to? If so I had issues with that initially but fixed it. I feel like they are pretty dang close but I can snap a pic tomorrow and get some confirmation

    I had drained the oil before taking the engine apart, could that be part of it? I haven’t put in new oil, I was waiting to finish this step to do that
     

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