took the carbs to church and now I cant get the bike to start

That has been my logic as well and yes only 5k. been sitting nearly all its life in a barn until I bought it. I think it would be good piece of mind to make sure its all in spec but I don't see why it would be out of spec with only 5k on it... just thought it was weird that some of them drastically increased when a bit of oil was added.

 

Update: took the notes to a shop to get measured, come back a week later and they were never touched, poor guy went to the hospital and is out on medical leave. Spoke to the other owner and said that I would just measure them myself, he pointed out that I have some small pitting in the 4th bore.

he recommended using a flex hone on the bored and then going from there. He saw crosshatching which is good.

what do you guys think? Should I go through that? Or just put it back together? Here is a pic of the bore...

I can’t feel it when using the skin on my finger but can more so with A fingernail

 

that is NFG

 

Assuming @Simmy NFG means what I think you mean, I have to ask, how can you say that without actually checking the depth of thise marks?
Could be they are just water marks, quick rub with wetordry 500grit would remove them? I guess it's about experience - so here goes - if the marks aren't actually deep, don't worry about them - if you run a nail across and it digs in its's deep, otherwise carry on - get a flexhone if you want. The ring gaps are a good if not the best indicator, remove the top ring, set in the bore (using a piston to square it), and measuremthe end gaps at three intervals - top middle and bottom.

 

@NikoRx I think @Minimutly is correct, the digital pics really make it look horrendous.
Here's what I found in the 900 motor I just pulled apart. Also looks horrendous but not much you can feel.
I think a honing might clean it up.

 

Well I only had 1500 grit sandpaper and used that and now I can hardly feel it with my nail, will check the rings another day and hope that this is sufficient

 

Measured the ring gaps, all of the first ones were within spec (0.15-0.35mm) the second ones were all out of spec by +0.06mm. My climber manual has the same range for both the second and first, is that correct? And does it mean that I have to buy oversized rings for all of them?

 

No, but you should check the width of the ring grooves in the piston - if all's well buy some rings, it will be fine.
Just had a thought - what do you mean by "first one's" "second ones"? Are you meaning rings or measurement points?
Ring gaps are one of the ways to check for wear - but you're measuring ring gaps you will be measuring bore aand ring wear.
Measure ring wear at the top, where the rings don't wipe. Then measure bore wear from there down.
Be methodical.

 

first equals top ring and second is the middle ring i am measuring the ring end gaps will be going home after work and measure them in different parts of the bore as well. Just thought it strange that all of my second ring end gaps were all over the spec range...

 

It's not going to idle down or behave itself until you manage a running vacuum sync. The accuracy of your initial bench sync has a great deal to do with how it will run initially, as do the (wet) float levels. Dave is right about the 550s, the Mikunis are sensitive little instruments and YICS is no help when it comes to carb sync. All it takes is one carb misbehaving to drag the others along.

Another thing to keep in mind: the main idle adjustment is very sensitive. The point between not idling, idling, or running away is very narrow. Once you're close, don't make big adjustments; just 'nudge' it.

 

looks like my reply (above) is a bit out of step with the progress here and we've gone down a whole other rabbit hole.

a quick note in regard to pistons and rings: "Oversize" rings are to fit "oversize" pistons when doing a rebore. You can't use "oversize" rings with standard size pistons; and depending on the bike (I can only speak for the 550s) pistons are unobtainium. You can get rings in almost all sizes, but you have to have pistons to go with them.

 

Oh hell yes I did go down a rabbit hole haha! but, I have enjoyed tearing down the top end and seeing how it all works by hand. I am going to start putting it together this weekend with all cleaned and fresh pieces. Once that is all back together, I am going to double check the valve shims, recheck the fuel levels to be at 2mm or slightly above to 1mm. I have now thoroughly corrected my misunderstanding of the rings. They are fine to use according to Chacal (love this guy and his wisdom).

 

Hey guys! Been a while but got bored and decided to work in the cold garage this weekend. I put the top engine back together and am on the step in the manual to check the valve shim clearances. When I move the crankshaft clockwise I can feel something slip and it wont move the chain anymore. Is it possible I don’t have the tensioner tightened properly? That’s my guess as to what I probably messed up.

many advice on the proper way to install the cam shaft tensioner properly? Or any ideas as to causes?

 

I believe I found the thread on how to fix it and the problem has been resolved

 

Engine should be turned anticlockwise.

 

easy way to remember is motor turns the same way as the wheels

 

That is a very easy and helpful way of remembering that. My issue ended up being that I didn't properly tighten the cam chain tensioner. That has been fixed though and If I need to slightly turn in clockwise it shouldn't slip. I can now check my valve shims next (again...)

 

Hey guys, put the top end of the engine back together and going through the shim clearance check and around the top end mark (T) when rotating counterclockwise I’m hitting some resistance but am able to push through but sometimes it’s easier and sometimes harder. Not sure what to do and am worried. Thoughts?

 

spark plugs in or out? fighting compresion if in.
T(DC) is for the outer 2 cylinders it could be the lobes of cam on inner 2 cylinders making contact with shims.
did you use assembly lube or oil the proper places
check the timing of the cam sprockets again

 

Spark plugs out

how would the inner cams be making contact if the outer are T(DC)? I understood that to be the furthest point from the shims.

I had used assembly lube on just about everything I could think of. I didn’t put it on the chain or sprockets. But it was on the lobes and shims when I replaced them.

by timing do you mean to have the dots on the cams matching up like the manual says to? If so I had issues with that initially but fixed it. I feel like they are pretty dang close but I can snap a pic tomorrow and get some confirmation

I had drained the oil before taking the engine apart, could that be part of it? I haven’t put in new oil, I was waiting to finish this step to do that

 

Well now I’m not sure if something slipped or if I messed up but I thought the notches on the cams were supposed to match up with the notches on the crankshaft?

 

So what would be the proper way to get all three of the marks to line up? Undo the cam tensioner, undo the sprockets and put slack in the chain, rotate crank shaft to T and reassemble? Or will I have to redo the whole section?

 

rotate the t mark to pointer at the 3:00 position
remove cam chain tensioner this should give you enough slack to move links. if not you will have to remove sprockets and start as if it were a new install
aling the cam mark with the arrow on the cam cap

 

Hey guys,

back at it again, so I have all three marks lined up, the TDC and two camshafts. I am struggling with understanding how to get the sprockets on while making sure the cam chain is taught and engaged and finally lining up the cam sprockets to be screwed in the hole. The directions just aren’t working out. Do I start with both sprockets on the shoulder or off? Anyone with experience or a how to video would be much appreciated

 

I'm going to be in the same boat after I replace the shims on the X and reassembling. Not looking forward to it. Waiting for warm Spring weather. Maybe the elves will do it for me as a Christmas surprise.

 

I want to bang my head against the wall, I keep matching the TDC mark and the two marks on the cam lobes but when I put my cam chain tensioner in I do not hear a click and when I rotate it counter clockwise twice the lobes don’t align with the dots. I have no idea where I’m this process I am messing up but I took it apart 6 times…

 

Is the chain taught between the crankshaft and the exhaust camshaft and the inlet? I set the crank to tdc. Then l fit the exhaust cam and the inlet cam. Then the sprockets can be fitted exhaust first, then the inlet sprocket. I hold the cam with an open ended spanner to line up the mark and fit the sprocket to its boss.

 

I have it tight from the exhaust to the crankshaft and from the crankshaft to the intake with the loose chain between the exhaust and intake supported by the chain guide

 

I’m going to put together a YouTube video this weekend of what I’m doing and will post it.
And I apologize but what do you mean by the inlet?

 

Inlet cam l mean. Good idea posting the video so you can get more help.

 

Yep that’s exactly what I have been doing, something just keeps slipping. they nearly line up when I have it aligned with the C on the timing plate and I’m not hearing the click when I depress the cam chain tensioner bolt. I stick my finger in that hole where the cam chain tensioner goes and the chain guide Is pretty firmly in its position when aligned with the C position. Wham I rotate CCW to the T position it is off significantly.

 

Just checking is your exhaust camshaft guide in the correct location in the crankcase. There is a small pocket it fits into tight to the chain. It's easy to fit it outside that.

 

Here is a photograph of the exhaust camshaft guide pocket or seat. This is the 900f engine. I am assuming your engine guide position will be the same. Hope this helps.

 

So my exhaust cam shaft guild is bolted into its position, and I believe the intake is in the right spot but I will definitely double check that!

 

My mistake the head is on your engine. A momentary lapse of reason lol.

 

haha I appreciate it regardless, losing my mind and feel like once I get over this problem and redo the valve shims there would be very little remaining to prevent the bike from running. I found a vintage bike shop that I may be able to take it into but I would rather do it myself....

 

Bike shop. The online shop is here lol post a video link of your engine timing and others will chime in. Good wrenching. You will fix it. More reward when you fix it yourself .

 

bulb could be bad or making poor connection in the socket. or it could be the wire inside the directional control is loose and needs to be resoldered.
is this happening when bike is off or running?

float height setting is a place to start before wet setting Setting the fuel levels

the replacment valve body needles may be shorter or longer then originals so the wet set is the final step

 

I want to hear the updates on this. I have gone through a good few issues you have. Still having a starting problem on my bike. 81xj650H. Going to recheck my shims again as this really seems to be a big culprit with these bikes. My bike will start sometimes but only with choke on. Run for about 30 sec- 1 min and then just suddenly die. So either a fuel issue, shim issue or both.

 

Hi, I've just pulled my cylinder head, cylinders and pistons off of my 78 XS1100. I plan on replacing the valve stem seals and piston rings. Everything else looks good, but I am a little bit nervous about ensuring that I put the cam chain back onto the cam chain sprockets correctly and I don't mess up the timing.

 

I finally had a buddy help take a video while I was working on it. I will be putting the footage all together and should hopefully be able to show you the process I am doing. I am still unable to get it like the book says too. very frustrated but excited to get everyone's feedback.

 

i was able to make my first video. Apologies for quality but this is what I have been trying to do.

 

Just make sure the following is done. From the crankshaft sprocket to the exhaust cam sprocket the chain must be tight. It must also be tight from the exhaust cam sprocket to the inlet cam sprocket. It looks like you need to move both cams one tooth anticlockwise. The engine is not locking so you are not having any piston valve contact which is great.

 

I have had it where there was some binding but I have done this process close to 15 times, I feel like that is definitely the issue but I'm not sure how to make it even tighter. going to try a couple more times and then just take it to a historical bike mechanic for this step haha. once this is done I just need to recheck valve shims and get the wet fuel levels and then from there it should be easy to tune and all of that.

 

Do you know the mileage of the bike? If you remove the cam chain tensioner measure from the face of the tensioner where it bolts to the engine to the end of the plunger and then release the plunger and measure again just to find out how much travel is left. If the chain is worn the timing marks might be slightly off.

 

roughly 4,000-5,000 miles

 

That is nothing, engine should be like new.

 

Well all the gaskets were replaced because it sat for a decade in a barn, and I polished up some of the parts and made sure they were sitting properly. I probably was fine by not taking it apart but oh well.... I just need to put the bugger back together

 

Other people have had the timing marks not exact similar you what you are getting. Have a read at this.

https://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/setting-the-cam-chain-timing-tips.103582/

I see you have read this before, I am wondering if your timing mark on the end of the crankshaft could be off a little? Set the TDC with a pencil through the spark plug hole and then see how your crankshaft mark is ligning up.

 

I believe I have tested this out as well and the #1 piston was TDC at the T mark