FZR 1000 EXUP

Well, I went and did it. $1700 for a bike with just under 7000 miles. Needs a little tlc, to make it run properly, but it should be scary fast and fun as hell. I think carb fun is in my future.

 

So, the battery is undersized and kind of knocks around in the battery compartment. It also doesn't seem to hold a charge well. I ordered a MotoBatt AGM + tender cable.
I think I'll be getting it registered this week, so once the battery in installed, I'll get fresh gas and some seafoam in the tank and see if it runs a bit better. with 12:1 compression ratio, I'm pretty sure I'm looking at strictly high octane fuels.

 

You did well! Looks great, except for that windscreen.

 

I was initially not into it either. Now, I don't know. I may look for a stock or at least neutral color replacement.

 

First off, congrads on the new bike! You did well and I think you will really be happy with how she runs and rides. They are really fun bikes! As for the screen, just a interesting design from the company. I guess they were scared that it would flap in the wind so they made those screen mounts by the front of the tank. I can't think of any other bikes that have/had that. I am sure some did. I had a 600 with the same thing at one time. Was my fist street bike back in the 80's. Looking forward to your write ups.

 

A little thermal investigation leads me to think I'm running on 2 cylinders. :-(

 

I recently acquired one as well. Mine is a '92. 26k miles. $800 (non runner)

Kurt

 

Looks like 1-4 use one coil and 2-3 use the 2nd coil. So, ignition can't be the source of 2 and 4 pipes being cold. Worth checking.

 

Dave, nice find! Welcome to the "Genesis" family.
Now when it comes time to adjust the valves, you know who to consult right?
May be a bit much for a carb clinic though.......

Probably has a couple of cylinders starving for fuel and not firing. Burnt fuel = hot exhaust pipes.

Wonder if the blue tinted screen is supposed to match the stripes? Pretty unusual color I have to say,
but it may grow on you.

Keep us posted.

Hmmm........I see a '94 close by me on CL for $1950. 12K and says it runs great with new tires....tempting.

Tony

 

Kurt, seems like a steal in such nice condition. Should get a valve adjustment because of the mileage it's at.
Have you tried to get it running?

Tony

 

Tony, I did think of you when I saw the valve configuration! going from 8->20 valves! also from 1 to 8 front brake pistons!
With 7K miles, they suggest by 24K, to do a check, but some online say 20K is better, so I have time.

I'm certain I'm taking the carbs apart. Probably sooner than later. It's hard to start disassembly when it looks so good sitting there! That's all it will do with the engine running like this, not quote a joy to ride just yet (with the rough sound and pops out the exhaust).

 

Nice score! I can’t help with the bike but I have a Motobatt in every bike and so far they have been rock solid. One is 5 years old and has not been taken care of and it still cranks like day one.

 

I got a Motobatt in the XJ and nothing but reliable!

 

You do have some time on the valves. Just plan on some downtime when doing them in case you need to find the correct shims. I believe someone makes a shim kit that's applicable to those engines? They have a slightly larger valve stem diameter than the 85-88 engines (which no one makes a shim kit for).

Also, those have the Mikuni 38mm carbs. You'll have to do some research on where to find the items needed for a rebuild once you get them apart for inspection.

Tony

 

If anybody is interested, good article about this bike: file:///Users/dkavanagh/Downloads/www.STADTAUS.com_CMM_An_EXUPTIONAL_Machine.pdf

 

Found the petcock nob (which looks like nylon) is broken off! Maybe it was gummed up and didn't turn, so the knob broke. Anyway, ordered another from Babbitts so I can get the tank off, get at carbs/coils/plugs, etc. Carbs will come apart for cleaning once I get some bench space! The BSA is taking up a lot of that!

 

BSA - bench space allocater

 

About to pull the carbs

 

Got the carbs out. Check out the size of that rack!

 

Pretty darn big for sure. My FZX models have the 34mm in that style. Thought about the upgrade, however the frame design requires the use of pods, so that makes it a no-go for me.

Did you get a manual yet?

Tony

 

I don't see too much gas leaking residue on them. Here is hoping they are not too bad and the "O" rings for the fuel tubes are in good shape.

 

I have a PDF, a scan much like I was provided here for my 550. I actually won an e-bay auction with a ton of yamaha manuals, if anybody's looking for a particular one... But, I might try to get a printed one on e-bay for clarity.

 

Hi Guys how do the carburettors work on the FZR? The XJ float bowls are at the bottom of the carburettors the FZR carburettors are on their side.

 

They still have fuel bowls and floats in there, just like the V Magna and Saber setup, just not the same as the XJ's. They are at an angle when in, but the design of the bowles and floats make up for it.

 

Here's a side-view

 

That explains it thanks guys. I thought looking at the FZR pictures the float bowls looked quite shallow in comparison with the XJ. Would those be similar to downdraft carburettors by any chance?

 

I believe they are considered down-draft carbs. They are maybe 10-15 degrees from vertical as mounted in the bike.

 

Carbs come open.

 

Dave,

Watched your vid on the carbs. They don't look too bad, a that's a plus. The idle mixture plugs are still intact and a good sign no-one has butchered up them before you bought the bike (except for the buggered up screw).

There is likely some gunk in the pilot mixture fuel feed and pilot jets. Also, make note of the main jet sizes as they are probably different sizes between the inner and outer carbs. And, ID each float to it's corresponding carb, as that will help you dial in the wet setting on each when you get to that step.

While you may be able to get away with not doing the throttle shaft seals, consider they are about 30 years old, and highly recommend replacing them. That way you know they won't be a source of a vacuum leak. Those should be the same shaft size as on the other Mikunis Yamaha used on their bikes.

Speaking of potential vacuum leaks, the intake manifold o-rings could cause you some trouble as well. Make sure you check those too.

Tony

 

Yes they look like it nice FZR you got Dave I be watching your progress on it.

 

Tony, You may be interested in this video!
I didn't know about different jets for inner vs outer, I'll make sure to record each of those.
Is it really critical to keep the same floats with the carbs? I say that because as I tilted the carb up on end, pins and floats started falling onto the bench! I only know #4 is the correct one.
I do plan to break the rack. I wanted to look through the service manual some more to see what other steps it recommends so I do things more-or-less in the correct order.

 

Sure enough, about the inner vs outer

 

OK, watched the vid and looks like you've made some good progress.
Just thought you should do you're best to keep the floats and float bowls with there respective carbs. The thought was trying to keep the volume in each the same, so potentially you can be closer to being dialed in when wet setting the carbs.

The black particles are from the flat slides chafing a bit over their lifespan. Take close look at where the plastic comes in contact with the metal. Keep in mind there's nothing to lubricate the mating surfaces, so excessive wear may necessitate replacement, but in reality, you should be OK with a good cleaning.

And one other thing, the throttle plate screws are staked and will require filing to make sure they back out without stripping out the throttle shafts. A small file is all you need and it's best to use a heavy tie-wrap to hold the throttle in the open position.

Tony

 

Looks like my pilot jet is slightly larger than stock. The bike also has a more free-flowing muffler, so it's possible the original owner adjusted that jet to compensate? I'll have to read up on this stuff since I know next to nothing about jetting.

 

All the important bits all layed out, awaiting new gaskets and a good soak in some carb cleaner.

 

I got things back together. I can tell it runs more smoothly, but with the default 2.5 turns on the mixture screws, it still pops like it's running lean. With how hard the plugs are to reach, I'm weighing options on tuning the mixture. This morning, I think I'll start with my thermal camera to identify colder cylinder(s) and start by enriching those 1/4 turn.

 

A colder cylinder will likely be richer than a hot cylinder.
Lean cylinders run hot and melt pistons.
Richen up the hot ones.

 

Ah, I was assuming 1 cylinder (#4 in this case) being a lot colder meant it was lean enough to not be firing. I have occasional popping in the exhaust. I ran it a few times between adjustments this morning. Next it uncovering the spark plugs to have a look. They were new when I started, so any coloring is since the carb re-build. Sadly, I have 8 hours of training starting in a hour and a half... pita to have to work!

 

Looks like there's a little color on 1-3, but #4 looks clean as when it came out of the box! I'll measure the ignition wire resistance. If 1 is firing, 4 should also.

 

Coil and cap resistances check out. Some variation, but within spec. Verified gap and replaced the plugs. Next, testing with tank off. I noticed prior, that the slides all react the same when blipping the throttle.

 

I think #4 just isn't contributing. I think spark must be OK. That leaves fuel and compression. I'm yanking the carbs off in case I missed something on that one. It was plugged up. I worry that it might be compression, bent valve or something. If someone over-rev'd the engine, could happen.
Anyway, in this picture, the #4 pipe is lower left.
hmm, lower right? The picture is being rotated left 90 degrees.

 

I ran the engine at 5000 RPM for 20 seconds or so, then shut the bike down before taking things apart enough to pull the plugs. Here's the state of things:
Shows #4 is running on the mains, but rich. Anyway, I can make some adjustments to get those more in line. I am pulling the carbs to examine #4 some more to see about that pilot circuit.

 

I've gone through my 1st tank of gas. There's a hanging idle, but I expect to sort that out with mixture adjustment and syncing. I was amused about the reserve feature on the bike and it's probably a modern vs old bike thing.
This bike doesn't have a fuel gauge or normal sender unit. It has a fuel pump and an on-off petcock. How does it handle reserve? It's a little clever. The fuel pump removes the need for a prime setting on the petcock. There is a low fuel sensor in the tank. It sits up about 6 inches off the bottom of the tank. When the fuel gets low enough, the fuel pump is disabled and the bike starts sputtering as the carb bowls get drained. There's a reserve switch I flick and the fuel pump gets re-enabled!
It bothers me to not have a fuel gauge like my xj550r, but I'm going to use the odometer to get a general sense of when I need to think about fueling up. Got to 145 miles this time before reserve was called for.

 

I thought I'd post this set of pictures from before I cleaned things out.

 

That pic above is a before? That looks to be very clean IMHO, # 2 might have something in the jet not too sure what it would be, being that clean in the first place. I wish I had carbs that came off and looked that good...if that is a "pre" cleaning pic.

 

I had some outstanding work, Replace old tires, Install Stainless still braided brake lines, EXUP valve service. I made a video:

 

Were your old lines behind the throttle cables?

 

That's a good question, but I do not think so. The lines arc further forward and the brake lines should leave the master cylinder, aiming slightly back, so I think I got it right, finally! I'm sure I have other footage somewhere that would show this.

Early in the video, I found this, which shows the throttle cables behind the brake lines.

 

I run a bit of rope beside the old lines before l take them off so l get them routed the same way. Just thought they would be better behind the throttle cables. Be some difference with new brake lines.

Just watching your video again is the longer line on the master cylinder side of the bike, could that be a solution just change them over.

 

A little follow-up, I had a heck of a time bleeding the front lines. I ended up bleeding air out of the top of the system by holding a rag around the top banjo bolts and cracking that bolt till the bubbles stopped coming out. Needed my wife's help for this to pump the brake handle.

Yanked the carbs last night. Need a "deeper" clean than I did last year. Breaking the rack, going into the ultrasonic cleaner. I'll take my time w/ them this time!