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XJ600/FJ600 51J Project Advice

Discussion in 'XJ Modifications' started by Ciarán, May 12, 2020.

  1. Ciarán

    Ciarán Member

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    Thanks for all the comments - I got speaking to someone who runs motorcycle maintenance and more advanced classes in the area. Unfortunately covid has done for the current semester but there's a chance they'll pick up in the new year.

    You can bring bikes to work on and the classes are in a proper workshop - with a selection of tools and someone who knows how to use them.

    I'll keep you updated on anything I do in the meantime but they're likely to be smaller jobs. I had been focused on a job interview lately but did that yesterday so went back the bike after work today. Just tidied the garage up and tidied up the trim I gave to the rear fender/tail so it looks fairly neat now.

    @Yammaat thanks for the reply. Good to know it's a safe swap.

    @k-moe cheers. I've already rounded an Allen bolt on the rear wheel holding on the brake disc. Short of getting someone to weld a nut on to it I'm at a loss. The other 5 moved but took serious work with a breaker bar.
     
    Last edited: Oct 22, 2020
  2. a100man

    a100man Well-Known Member

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    Hi Gary Interesting stuff. Most enthusiast around here use what I would call 'hobby migs' up to 120A 0.6 or 0.8 wire etc.. Industrial ones are often 3 phase so that's a no no for most people also the big ones can take up a lot of space and we don't have big houses or garages in the main. Also the (argon/mix)gas is expensive. traditionally that was due ty 'British Oxygen' or BOC having a monopoly on the supply. You had to rent a gas bottle which was expensive and then pay for refill. once set up cost is OK.. BUT Pub (C02) gas is everywhere and is used to propel beer from casks and also to make fizzy soft drinks on demand. You local landlord may 'lend' you a bottle.. That said I've heard rumors that pub gas can sometimes contain nitrogen nowadays..
     
  3. Franz

    Franz Well-Known Member

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    I have been looking at the Clarke Mig 90 one you referred to a100man. I might get that.
     
  4. a100man

    a100man Well-Known Member

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    Hi I think the #Pro 90 is better than the 90EN. some are flux core wire only (gasless) and not much cop. Also the Pro90 has a lowest AMP setting of 20 IIRC
    Should be able to pick one up s/h for 100 quid on ebay. Take care that its worked recently though ask for a video even.
    Smooth wire feed is everything on these machines... I don't have a Clarke but I relined my MonoMigs torch feed with net curtain 'cable' to improve the feed!
     
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  5. Ciarán

    Ciarán Member

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    Hi folks. Got my rear wheel back today so I'm going to work on cleaning it up, stripping the paint, and respraying it. I can then look at doing bearings etc. before proper reassembly. I am putting off the rear suspension swap and swingarm refurb till a later date. The plan then is to get the front end off the ground, again sort the front wheel, fit progressive springs and do a fork oil change, bearings etc. I have the calipers cleaned and ready for reassembly but I'm considering stripping their paint and respraying them as well. I'll have to rebuild the rear master cylinder too.
    Then the plan is ideally to look at replacing the exhaust system and hopefully, at that stage, I'll have a running and driving XJ/FJ600 - albeit not the world's prettiest one.

    In terms of shopping, I took the plunge last night and bought:
    1. A new gas tank - wrong colour but looks to be in really nice condition and was a bargain price. I might see how the spare tank looks on a different bike I have and see if it's worth repairing.
    2. A radian top clamp which is supposed to be a straight swap. Will allow me to fit any 22mm bars I want - provided they clear the fairing. A nice ebay buy and by making an offer on the buy it now price I saved £5.
    All of that will be for nothing if I can't identify an electrical fault I'm experiencing. I know less than nothing about wiring. The issue isn't a lack of voltage, the battery is new and on a trickle charger. When I turn the key in the ignition I can use my lights, the neutral indicator lights up, and I hear a faint click from the fuse box. When I press the ignition I get nothing - the bike doesn't even attempt to crank. I suspect starter relay may be the issue but I'd really appreciate feedback that a simpleton like me might actually have a chance of understanding. Any electrical gurus out there - your help would be greatly appreciated!
     
  6. a100man

    a100man Well-Known Member

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    Hi Ciaran

    On th eback wheel you might want to check/replace bearing before you paint in case you have to get angry with teh wheel - up to you. I've no exerience with progressive springs but why do you think you need them? I'd start with just a flush and oil change to start with on the forks - are teh seals OK?. You've already got enough on your plate.

    With regard to electrical the starter relay should click when you press the starter button (although usually you don't hear it above the noise of the cranking engine) I don't know what click you hear when turning the key. You can check the starter motor by taking it off and connecting direct to a 12V battrey - or if you are feeling adventurous you can try shorting the two big terminals of the starter relay with a screw-driver. You'll get some sparks but the engine should crank.
     
  7. Ciarán

    Ciarán Member

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    I had been thinking of doing the bearings after paint but I guess my main plan was to get the old paint stripped off first. Hope to tackle that process this weekend. As for the springs - I guess I don't intend to take apart this machine too often so I felt I was as well to freshen up the springs while I had it apart. Maybe there is no need to go beyond just seals and oil. I haven't identified the exact source of the click when I turn the key in the ignition but I can confirm there is no noise whatsoever when I press the starter. Simple things first - the ignition switch fuse seems to be absolutely fine. I swapped it out for one of the spares I had just in case and still nothing. I think my next step is to pull the starter motor and test to see if it works when connected directly to a battery.

    Hopefully that's all it is. I assume if I had messed up in a more serious fashion then all the electrics would be buggered and not just the starter.
     
  8. bensalf

    bensalf Well-Known Member

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    you can try the starter on the bike ,by shorting across the two large nuts on the starter solenoid, make sure the bike is out of gear, you may get some sparks, but the starter should spin.
     
  9. Ciarán

    Ciarán Member

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    1605818194223.jpg So as I've said before this is my first project bike - with the result I sometimes have to wait to source appropriate tools and equipment for jobs. All this is made a little more difficult by COVID and the hassle of getting to shops (if they're even open). So that being said I've pulled the battery and the starter but I'm going to have to wait to the weekend to buy some jumper cables.

    I had been thinking of applying paint stripper to the wheels etc. while they're off but looking at Bensalf's café build I think he painted over the original black. Given the amazing quality of that build - if it's good enough for him it's good enough for me. I have attached a pic of the rear wheel before - and after - some cleaning and even that alone made a big difference. I used something fairly severe on paint for the cleaning as I had originally been thinking of stripping the wheels, and I used autosol to polish the bare metal.

    Finally, my new XJ tank arrived (the one on the bike has a crease from being dropped against a door frame by the PO). Coincidentally, it may just be a perfect match (well almost) for my KZ650 - which I bought a few weeks ago and aim to turn into a café racer. I know the tank isn't exactly a perfect café style but it cost me very little so I'm happy to compromise.
     

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  10. Ciarán

    Ciarán Member

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    Pulled the starter motor and tested it and it spins up fine. So the problem lies elsewhere.
    When I hit the ignition on the bike the lights don't dim so does that indicate that the ignition switch is to blame?

    I'm disappointed that it's not the starter as at least then I'd have identified the problem and could work on sorting it out.
     
  11. bensalf

    bensalf Well-Known Member

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    does the starter solenoid "click " when you press the starter button?
    ignition on, neutral light on, kill switch on?
    stu
     
  12. Ciarán

    Ciarán Member

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    I can't hear the starter solenoid click - if I hold down on the ignition nothing at all happens - complete silence. Ignition is on, neutral light is on, and kill switch is on.

    I do hear a faint click when I switch the kill switch from off to on and vice versa but not sure if that really means anything.
     
  13. bensalf

    bensalf Well-Known Member

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    are you refering to the starter button? ignition switch is the key.
    the fact the lights dont dim, just means power is not getting through to the starter motor, which you already know
     
  14. Ciarán

    Ciarán Member

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    Sorry yes, starter button is what I meant.
     
  15. bensalf

    bensalf Well-Known Member

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    so if the starter solenoid isnt clicking, does the engine spin if you short across the two large nuts on the starter solenoid , with a large screwdriver ,or the like
     
  16. Alan Mc

    Alan Mc New Member

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    Hi everyone and hope it’s ok to crash in on this thread. An ‘87 XJ was my first bike and have biked since.
    Recently bought an ‘88 Model - unfortunately awaiting pick up when restrictions ease here in Scotland. Am planning very much along this thread - get it running and MOTd then cafe racer, I think.
    One thing I am considering is potentially a tank change. Heard the early RD350 tanks look good on these, in terms of lines?
    Thank for all the early heads up here - you’ve saved me a bunch of trial & error.
    Alan
     
  17. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    Please start a thread for your bike so we can provide the help that you need without confusing future readers.
     
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  18. a100man

    a100man Well-Known Member

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    The tanks on these bikes in my opinion is this worst styling feature (or maybe it's the bulbous aluminium tail unit??) Anyhow the way it tails off at the rear and blends into the seat will make it difficult to re-use for teh Kwak, however if you can find a local sheet metal worker maybe you can experiment with some 'cut and shut' - after all you can't exactly ruin the looks of that KZ650 ;-)
     
  19. Minimutly

    Minimutly Well-Known Member

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    Beauty is in the eye...
     
  20. Ciarán

    Ciarán Member

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    I've been inactive for a bit but I made the sensible move and disposed of the KZ650 as it was going to be a senseless money pit. Between a Christmas break and other bits this project has stalled a bit but I hope to get stuck in this weekend and prepare the rear wheel for paint and new bearings. I will also try and figure out if the solenoid needs replacing and try get that ordered asap if so.

    All the comments re the tank of the XJ and I have to say I actually think they're a pretty machine with the fairing on. Not the world's most beautiful bike by any stretch but not a minger either!
     

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