I got suckered and bought the worse XJ550 ever...

Hello. A few months back I bought a 1982 XJ550 for my son so he could get his bike license and we three ( along with my other soon) could go on a nice father /sons bike trip hopefully to beautiful BC. I got the bike home and its been nothing but problems like leaky carbs, needed a new front tire, speedometer does not work, front brake was seized, etc. I have been on this forum more than once trying to get information on how I can fix things but it hasn't been easy. You guys have helped me out a lot and I truly do appreciate it but I still have a way to go.

1.) My latest problem is I will go for a ride and say the battery is full at 12.6 volts and after driving for approx 2 hours I come back and the battery is only at 11.8 Could this just be a short or drain somewhere in the wiring or is it the charging system and how do I tell?

2.) I put new turn signals on the bike as the other ones were glued and tapped on just long enough for me to get the bike home. I bought some off of Amazon and they actually look pretty nice. When I turn the signal light on the bulbs turns on but they do not blink.They are not LED but just regular bulbs. Does this mean I have to install a flasher somewhere and if so how would you make all 4 turn signal bulbs blink. If a flasher is the solution any advice on which one would work or be good?

3.) The speedometer does not work and I couldn't take the bike for a test drive so I found out when I got it home and did some fixing and then found out it was not working. I took off the speedometer cable to make sure it was ok and there was none inside the plastic casing so maybe that was the problem...lol. I spent $60 on a genuine Yamaha cable and slapped it on and went for a test drive and nothing. I then took the wheel off and looked inside the wheel. Everything looked ok and when I lined the speedometer drive it all seemed to fit nicely but the cable would not turn at all when I spun the wheel. I then ordered a used one off of ebay which arrived today. I put the new/used one on and went for a test drive and it worked....for about 60 miles and as I was pulling into the driveway it quit. I can see how the speed drive fits into the male ends which are inside the wheel but I can't get it going again. Is there anything on the wheel part that can break to make the speed drive not work? Why would it work for a while and then just quit. I know this is a hard one to diagnose with what I am telling you but any help or suggestions would be appreciated.

thanks

 

Probably the charging system needs work and it is a simple test:

Fully charge the battery
Put a meter across the battery to measure the voltage, start the bike and when revved above 2500 RPM the voltage should increase to 14.5 +/- .3V
If the voltage does not increase as it should then follow the FSM troubleshooting guide, which is very good excepting the one error on the V1, V2 voltage check in some manuals. I attached the one that is correct.

Some common problems you might address first:

Inspect the connectors for the stator (3 terminal) and the rectifier assembly, sometimes overheating occurs and creates poor or no contact at the terminals.
Use a DMM and check the brush to field coil resistance before disturbing the AC Generator cover. Ideally resistance at the 2 terminal connector would be just over 4 ohms, but may be a bit higher. Anything over about 15 ohms is becoming marginal and might require further attention.

The OEM flasher needs something close to the stock 27W bulbs to function correctly and you run into issues with the auto cancel feature is you change the OEM flasher. If the turn signals you bought can accommodate and our rated for 27W bulbs that would be the easy fix.

The speedo drive gear or cable should not break unless there is an issue with the speedometer input bearing. Typically, these will make a screeching noise when getting up to speed and can be remedied by lubricating. I would suggest checking the input pinion bearing on the speedometer for stiffness by manually turning it with a small screwdriver - it should have virtually no resistance.

 

Thanks Rooster I shall start on the electrical right away and let you know what I find. OMG I just went to Amazon to see how many watts those turn signals are and they are LED!!! I ordered 2 different products and the good ones that I kept and ordered 2 more of is LED. Can I get the LED bulbs working on my bike? They for sure aren't 27 watts and they light up so now I just need them to blink. Is that possible?

 

you would have to change the flasher relay to an electronic one, but then you would loose the auto cancelling feature, of the signals.
you will have to decide which way you want to go , ----led's or auto cancell.
also part of the auto cancelling is done in the speedo with a reed switch, so speedo would need to work for auto cancel
stu

 

Hardly the worst bike ever I would say.
Work through the issues logically, methodically, and most of all thoroughly. Everything will come together then.

 

Thanks guys for getting back to me I did some reading on the blogs here and it said that I would have to change out the relay. I looked on the electrical schematic and saw hat the current relay has 3 prongs so I ordered a 3 prong, LED relay. Does that make sense? Then all I do is find the current relay (which is under the gas tank I believe) and switch it out. This sounds too easy and nothing is going to blow up or catch on fire ...lol. I will try it with out the auto cancelling happening and see whats better.

 

I'd keep the leds, fit resistors and keep the auto-cancelling. My maxim doesn't have it....

 

It's not that simple to replace the relay with one that supports LED's and keep the auto cancel feature. The aftermarket three prong relays are usually setup for 12V+ in, 12V+ out to the switch, and a ground connection. The factory bike relay has a third wire for the cancelling feature and I am not aware of any direct replacement.

You can add resistors inline to the LED's as @Minimutly as mention to add load to keep the factory flasher functioning or use this thread to rewire the signals accordingly. FYI adding resistors defeats one of the reasons of moving to LED's which is to save power. Not a huge deal unless you need that power for something else but good FYI.

Thread about flashers, just read part 1. The other parts do not apply to the signals nor do you have the "computer" mentioned in that thread.

https://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/how-to-convert-to-leds-and-still-have-everything-work.14068/

 

+1 on the 3 prong connector, you will have to do a bit of wiring modification to make that work or Len offers up a plug and play harness. You can go with an electronic 2 prong plug and play flasher relay and give up the self cancelling feature, or you can get the one from Len that works with the cancelling unit and with LED's or incandescent bulbs.

And bensalf is spot on about the speedo and the reed switch being used for the cancelling unit, but hopefully you will get that sorted and with stock instrument to keep the self cancelling feature.

Just say no to load resistors - a total waste of power, heat, and real estate

And since you have the Maxim and just one turn signal indicator you will need to add diodes or the LED turn signals will become a hazard warning.

https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/flashers-load-resistors/metric-bike-diode-kit/1190/2805/

 

Wow I knew it would not be that simple but its old technology moving into the new tech. OK thanks for the info guys and I shall read up on what has to happen to make them blink. Does anyone have any advice about the speedometer not working. I don't know if I wrote it up the way so that everyone can understand it but I tried. Thanks again and keep the great info coming

 

I've re-read it a couple of times Tony and I'm still not sure I understand....but I'll give it a shot.

Unhook the cable at the wheel hub and spin the cable...with a rigged up attachment to a drill (to spin it fast enough to register on the speedo). If it spins freely and shows a reading...then look into the speedo hub.

It may be worth a look...I think the speedo drive uses a wheel hub tab (terminology may not be correct) that connects to the drive hub. Check that the tabs aren't bent...perhaps it was flattened a bit when the front wheel was installed?

 

Thanks TJ. This is my 2nd speedometer drive I have tried. You can see where the male 2 ends on the bike wheel should fit into the female part of the speed drive and I line them up and put it back together and nothing. The weird part is on the one I just bought of ebay and put on it worked for like 50 miles and then quit. I checked it out and couldn't see anything wrong and put it back together but it still doesn't work. The tabs are good but I don't know how big or long they are suppose to be but they are there.

 

Have you checked the cable itself?

 

Yes Hog it is a brand new cable.

 

Ok TJ, I think what happened so far was 1.) there was no cable so I bought one of those. 2.) I checked the speedometer drive and it was not working so I got one off of ebay. 3.) went for a test drive and everything worked good until I was almost home and then something quit. I did your drill with the cable going into the speedometer itself and there's nothing so now something inside the speedometer is broken. So what can be broken in there and is it fixable or do I have to buy a new or used speedometer?

 

And you did verify that you didn't break the new cable on that 50 mile run and you are spinning the drill the correct direction?

 

Is it a 550 maxim or 550 seca? If it’s a maxim, any speedo from any xj550 maxim, xj650 maxim, 1983 xj750 maxim will interchange as they are all the same.

550 seca? There are a couple swaps

 

Its a Maxim. I took the cable right out of the casing and actually I just ran it clockwise or the tighten way. Should I try the lefty loosie way or rightie tightie way....lol

 

You need to spin it CCW when viewed from the rear or you will just drive it into the stop.

 

So went out and put the drill to the speedometer and it works great( Thanks Rooster for suggesting spinning it the other way). Needle moves freely and everything there is good. So the cable is good and the speedometer itself is good and working so I am missing something when I am putting that wheel back together and the speedometer drive? All I do is match up the male and female grooves and put it together and then while holding it together I put the tire back on. I don't know if the male parts of the drive are warned down but like I said it worked for 50 miles and then quit again. Its almost like the speedometer cable end pops out and or isnt long enough or? Is there a trick to putting the speedometer drive on that I am missing besides just lining up those male and female indent? Let me know.

 

Look inside the speedo drive hub. There is a metal piece that has two ears.... Those need to engage with the rim. Often times people don’t get those engaged properly, and when they tighten the axle, the ears get bent i. and out of the way and do not engage then.

 

So I took the tire off and the speedo drive hub. The male ears on the tire itself looked good as in size or length but they might have been a little bit bent a bit. I gently straightened them out and while the tire is on the bench I gave it a 1/4 turn and then took the speedo hub off to ensure that it was also moving 1/4 turn. Sometimes it was and sometimes it wasn't. After I lined it up perfect then I got it 4 out of 4 times. I put the tire back on and am going for a test drive.

 

I had a similar problem with the battery. If your voltage is low it is probably your alternator brushes. That's what solved my problem.

 

Yay I have a speedometer again!!! For how long I don't know but its working. I will drive it and see how it goes. Hey Tabaka...where did you get the brushes from? For that job its going to a mechanic if I can find anything wrong anywhere. I just think that everything is old and corroded and the power is not getting through but its maybe the brushes.

 

Chacal has them. Pretty easy job.

 

I am in Canada and don't know Chacal.

 

@chacal (aka Len) is the purveyor of all things XJ at xj4ever.com.

Not positive, put I suspect he can ship most things to Canada.

Get to know Len, get to know the catalog at xj4ever.com. It will make your life much easier.

What your looking for, along with a lot of info about the charging system, will probably be found here:
http://xj4ever.com/catalog/d-5-charging.html

 

Cool. Yes I already ordered something from Len thanks

 

Glad you got it sorted Tony. If it starts to act up again...you'll know where to start looking.

 

Do you have a DMM and do you know how to use one? There are a couple of simple tests that may save you the fee of a mechanic.

 

I have a DMM but am not a pro with it that's for sure. What kind of tests?

 

Voltage is the main one I use to diagnose faults, and generally the easiest too.
You need to have a wiring diagram, know it's correct for the bike, and how to read it. Half a day with the seat up and the headlight off is all it takes, and sometimes this never happens until a fault appears, but it sure beats asking us to blindly diagnose it.
After that everything is easy.

 

Well that sounds easy and good. I have the correct diagram already and have had the tank and seat off. What do I test from where to where? I did the suggested test on my charging system by reving the bike at 3,000 rpm and using the DMM and seeing what the battery was charging at. I have had problems with the headlight relay so I had to run the headlight straight to the battery and its on a switch for on and off. When I first tested the battery at 3,000 rpm the headlight was off and it tested at 14.5 and with the headlight on it dropped down to 13.34 which is still good isn't it? When I just straight tested my battery after driving around for a couple hours is was testing at 12.5 which is almost full so maybe my mechanic that cleaned some stuff up already fixed it?

 

"What do I test from where to where?"
Let's look at your headlight, which you've bastardised.
Look at the diagram, starting at the headlight, work along the line to the dipswitch, find the common, follow this along (to the relay?), then from the relay input to the on/off switch, to the fuse. (This is my guesswork - that word again - without having your diagram in front of me, the route might be different - maybe the start switch is in there too, but it could be in the feed to the relay).
At all points you check for +12V, with the meter on frame earth or battery -ve.
So this is the procedure for most electrical faults - you can work the other way from the fuse too, sometimes it helps to do both. The point is you have to work it out from the wiring diagram.

 

Ok so I went for another ride and the Speedometer is still holding and working fine so yay for a possible win there but we will see. Today I am trying to get the LED lights to blink instead of just staying on. I bought a 3 prong flasher for LED's . I also found the flasher that the electronic schematic says is the flasher . I tried the flasher but it doesn't work so how shall I proceeed from here? P.S. I am so not an electrician....lol

 

So now for issues I have the headlight to deal with, the lack of first gear (but all the other gears work) and the turn signals.....doing good!!!

 

On the main harness flasher relay mating connector you will need to remove the self cancelling Y/G wire, tape it and tie it back.

You will need to install a terminal in that pin and tie it to chassis ground. Connect the other two wires as below:



And since you have the Maxim and just one turn signal indicator you will need to add diodes or the LED turn signals will become a hazard warning.

https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/flashers-load-resistors/metric-bike-diode-kit/1190/2805/

 

I found this on LED lighting but he is talking about a 5 pin and the wiring goes like this:


Wiring goes like this:
Stock flasher connector Br wire goes to the common pin on the SPDT relay.
The normally closed contact from the relay goes to the supply side of the electronic flasher.
The normally open contact on the relay remains unconnected.
One of the relay coil pins goes to ground.
The other relay coil pin gets connected to the stock flasher Y/G wire.
The load side of the electronic flasher goes to the stock flasher Br/W wire.

Is this what I am shooting for and if so I have a couple questions about this wire job

 

Thanks Rooster for the help Do I attach the diode on the wire before it gets to the relay? Also just one relay on the brown wire or do I have to do both wires that go to my new relay?

 

how many diodes in total will I need to do the total bike or the 4 x LED turn signals?

 

Two, wire them as depicted in the link provided above.

So you want to keep the auto cancel feature then yes that is the correct wiring you posted. The only difference is SQLGuy used a 2 pin electronic flasher and you are using a 3 pin if you use the one you referenced above. That's not an issue just add to tie that E- terminal to chassis ground.

 

Okay I will order two for the bike. I do not care about the auto cancelling feature so I will stick with your way on the 3 pin LED flasher that I have. For now I will put everything back together until the diodes come in.

 

So finally the Super bright diodes came in and I am working on the silver bullet and trying to get the led lights to blink. First I did what Rooster said about cutting the one wire on the fusible link and grounding it to the frame. After that all my LED turn signal lights worked??? And that's without the Super bright diodes that I have been waiting for for weeks to come in. Does anyone want to buy some super bright diodes??? (lol) So as far as the silver bullet bike I am going for a test drive after supper and see what else is wrong but I am thinking just the 1st gear issue and that's it but I shall figure that out after the ride.

 

fusible link?

So how is that tun signal indicator light working for you?

 

They are working good. I was surprised to as soon as I hooked up the relay after I cut and grounded the one wire the lights started blinking and I was like "whattttt?" I took the bike for a test drive and they blinked properly the whole time. Thanks again for your help Rooster. The lights are bright and look fantastic!!!

 

Yes that is blinking when the signal lights are flashing. Is that bad?

 

No that is a good thing, but without the diodes all four turn signals will flash (think hazard switch) at the same time with LED bulbs installed. You do have LED bulbs correct?

 

No, it’s supposed to be on and blink when either L or R signals blink. You don’t have right and left indicators..... you just have one indicator.

 

Rooster’s ahead of me again