Barnyard Find 82 maxim 650 - Brakes question

Not too dirty but still need cleaning. Get those bowls off ans see what is going on inside (don't forget to get new gaskets if the old tear). Work on getting the drain screws out. Get JIS screwdrivers. Find the float valve issue. Clean all jets. Check the diaphragms and correct the failed clunk test slide. Follow the church of clean and don't forget the jet in the bowls.
http://www.xjbikes.com/forums/index.php?threads/in-the-church-of-clean.14692/

 

Three drain bowl screws are out with a tap from a 1/4 manual impact driver. The gummed up bowl hasn't given up yet, it's soaking - try tomorrow
Bob

 

Success! A soak in carb dip, rinse, heat, and a smack from my 1/4 manual impact driver did the trick. So satisfying to win the battle!

 

Disassembly is completed and first body is in the carb dip. Pilot screws had the rubber plugs and turned freely. I have one last float pin to remove, it's seized with all the crap. Pb blaster overnight

Question, can the floats go in the dip, or how would you go about cleaning this one up.

Bob

 

Wow, this looks CLEAN!

 

Careful not to break the supports the float pin goes through. Not sure about the carb dip, I think I would use carb cleaner in a spray can and a cloth to clean the float.

 

Cleaning complete! I was able to get that float pin out using the spin then pull technique I learned about in another thread here. The float I showed earlier cleaned up perfectly in the ultrasonic. All the float posts survived!

For these carbs, the floats had so much gunk that either the floats were seized onto the pins or the pins were seized to the posts. Either way the float arms were frozen in place, causing the gas leaking I mentioned in the first post. Something as simple as this caused the early retirement of the bike by the po.

Parts from chacal arrived today, petcock kit clutch kit and new master Cylinder. Already have the carb kit. I hope to get the bike on the road this weekend.

Bob

 

Good work I need to get one of those ultrasonic cleaners.

 

I had thought about skipping the valve clearance inspection based on the low mileage. I read the periodic maintenance intervals chart and it said at 9k, it's due for its second inspection lol. SO better to do it and know for sure.

Intake I have 2 at .004, 2 at .005.
Exhaust is .006 for all four.

I did pull the plugs and pour in a bit of oil before turning the motor over for the valve clearance check. Had no problem turning it over by hand.

I have reassembled one carb, three to go.
Should be able to try starting it tomorrow.

Bob

 

Can anyone confirm order of assembly on #3 throttleshaft, with respect to the shim placement. My Haynes book doesn't even show the shims. I am thinking the shim on the side isn't required.

 

You don’t put one on the left side by the thick white collar. You are also missing the big spring, the linkage, and the two butterfly screws. It also looks like you butterfly is upside down.
Dfox

 

Thanks for the reply Dave. You are correct in the picture the butterfly is laying upside down from how it is actually installed. For clarity I've attached pictures for final assembly.

So to confirm, you need 7 shims for the carb rebuild. chacal's kit has 8, one is extra. Is that right?
Bob

 

Thanks Dave for your timely update and info!

I did assemble it with the shim, and the immediate result was that the throttle shaft began binding as I tightened the nut. When I loosened it, the binding went away.

It seems this was the likely root cause of my slow return to idle issue reported in another project at the link below. I believe I used all the shims when I did that rack.
https://xjbikes.com/forums/threads/slow-return-to-idle.129003/

I assembled this carb without the shim on the left side, it seems right as rain.

Bob

 

Correct— if you install a shim where it is not supposed to be, the shaft will bind up. Remove the shim from the left side of the shaft on #3

 

An update... when I got to carb 2, I had two shims in my parts bag from the teardown. I'm certain the rack has never been apart before, so I believe that from the factory carb two had shims left and right.

I put both shims on, no binding of the throttle shaft was noted.

Rack is reassembled and benchsynced. Tomorrow back into the bike it goes

Bob

 

Even the factory can make mistakes. As long as there is no binding then there's no need to remove the extra shims.

 

I used my sheet metal brake to align the carb bodies for final tightening, and then as support for the wet set. I had to adjust tangs on two of the carbs to bring the level down to spec.
Bob

 

I have one carb bowl where, when the screw is opened enough to all flow out the drain hole, a fair amount of gas weeps past the screw. The other bowls are fine. Is there a way to correct for this, or is a repayment bowl needed? Fyi new drain screw with antiseize.

Bob

 

You should have gas come out all four drain screws when you open them. If gas isn’t coming out the drain screw—
1. Your bowl doesn’t have any gas in it
2. Your bowl drain is clogged.

 

Let me be more clear. Gas will flow out the drain outlet where I put my hose to catch it. It will also weep past the threads of the carb drain screw. Makes a bit of mess.

When I tighten, it doesn't leak, so I can live with it as is, but I was wondering if anyone ran across thus and what they may have done to correct it.

Bob