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FJ 600 1958 - Front axle torque "not avalible" in haynes...shwwaaa?

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by Phil B, Jul 8, 2021.

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  1. Phil B

    Phil B Member

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    Just trying to figure out the torque for the front axle on my 1985 FJ 600.

    haynes manual has abdicated responsibility in providing this information. Check out the pictures. Strange right?

    This model has no axle nut. The axle screws into a thread in the fork lower. Thus im not wanting to proceed without proper guidance. Don't want to foul the thread on my lower...

    PS... my project is coming along. Bit raw and mad-max looking, but i've grown to like it that way.
     

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  2. FJ111200

    FJ111200 Active Member

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    Typical Haynes. The FJ1200 with the screw in axle is 59Nm and the XJR is 73Nm. So, do what you think is best. Where it says in your manual to "tighten it securely" i'd probably go to 40Nm, though i hold no responsibility for out of whack calibration or ham-fistedness on your part. LOL.
    My genuine factory Suzuki manual for the VX800 is a bit vague and states 36Nm to 52Nm.
     
  3. jayrodoh

    jayrodoh YimYam Premium Member

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    It's the axle clamp bolt that really keeps the front together, as long as the bolt is snug enough to compress the forks, spacers, etc together before tightening the clamp bolt you should be good. Bikers have been using that factory tool set to change tires on the side of the road/in their garage they might need to (including myself) without a torque wrench for decades, I wouldn't worry too much about it. Give it a good snug and tighten the clamp up. Putting an engine together is a different topic though.
     
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  4. Mechanic1978

    Mechanic1978 Active Member

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    Not knocking these guys info, but if torque is too tight you will wear them bearings out way sooner, general way I do them is by feel. Wheel off ground to rotate it by hand, to ensure its not too tight and binding, feel the wheel spins freely. If I spin it and it only makes a few free rotations its too tight, back it off to next slot that lines the pin up. When correct, it should spin for days sorta speak. When they have a crown nut and cotter pin I don't see the need to go by torque specs. But that's me
     
  5. Phil B

    Phil B Member

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    Thanks for the input guys!

    I tightened it somewhere in the range of 30Ft/p then did the clamp bolt to spec. After that i tried unscrewing the axle and it didn't budge with 60Ft/p. The wheel spins without to much drag.

    Im satisfied, but i'll keep an eye on it as well.
     
  6. Simmy

    Simmy Well-Known Member

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    sorry to nitpick you again @Mechanic1978 but the only way this makes sense is if you’re missing the spacer between the bearings.
    Are you thinking about tapered wheel bearings on a car?

    according to the FZ600 manual (same parts) the front axle gets 75 ft.lbs
     
    Last edited: Jul 9, 2021
  7. Mechanic1978

    Mechanic1978 Active Member

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    Your ok man, I'm used to you by now...lmao! (Seriously its ok)
    I agree its hard to do, but I have seen it, this customer had it so tight he partially crushed the center spacer, and crossed the threads on the axle. It was rear wheel on a
    04 zx1400 concours. He said his brother used a 1/2" air impact to run the nut down after replacing brakes.
    He crushed the spacer, stripped the axle threads, toasted bearing, and cracked the wheel.

    Edit, not a concours...my mistake
     
    Last edited: Jul 9, 2021
  8. Minimutly

    Minimutly Well-Known Member

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    I grew up without a torque wrench - only started using one when building engines. Even now I rarely bother with one, rarely causes a problem so I would wind it in until it snugs, then no more than 10 degrees. Depends on your idea of snug I suppose - difficult to impart in text.
     
  9. Phil B

    Phil B Member

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    It definitely doesn't spin like a free bird. If i give it a good push It goes around once, maybe twice...I just checked the bearings, cleaned them and repacked them with fresh grease.

    Is something wrong then?
     
  10. Hollybrook

    Hollybrook Member

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    FJ600 factory manual says 75 lb-ft.

    When I torqued to that I stripped out the threads in the fork leg. My torque wrench was verified to be correct, so I can only assume it was already damaged. A stainless Time-Sert took care of that and I torque to the factory spec.
     
  11. Mechanic1978

    Mechanic1978 Active Member

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    Your brake pads may be dragging, causing it to stop spinning...
     
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