My exhaust creation.

Good info!
I do remember where I read about the pulsing and crossover, it was in your info pages!
When I did the baffles I specifically was thinking about the 1 to 2 and 3 to 4 cross flow and made them shorter while trying to separate the 2 until they hit the end pipe.
Not really 4 into 2 but a lot closer than the basic 4 into 1 that it replaced.
Hmmm, I wonder if the lack of heat dissipation on the headers might be playing a part also, since they are solid thick steel.

The main circuit is running fine, definitely in the idle circuit where I have the issue... more tuning required!

 

Damn, just re-read that... hmmm I definitely didn't make it that way... time for a redesign and some more surgery.

 

27C today, did a bunch of city riding and on the freeway, redlined it twice just to see.
Goes like a beast and the plugs are still the same, no fouling.
Hmmm... next summer maybe, before I can see the same symptoms. (well I wouldn't mind if that was the case, to be sure)
I will endeavour to reroute the collector baffles though, you never know.
Thanks again.

 

The design you have allows for too direct of flow, meaning you have no retained backpressure.. Your inner fins need reworked similar to the blue in this:
Here is a crude visual of what will help your design.

 

or just go with the Seca Turbo collector, centre stand would need to go though.

 

I Like it! a Lot.

 

Yes, in a perfect world but I'm deep in now!

 

You know that is impressive... fully isolated 2/3 from 1/4 till the turbo. Hmmm...
Like a riddle, in my current collector.

 

Hmmm,
This is the best Idea I could come up with based on the 2/3 being grouped together and 1/4 also, but isolated till the exhaust.
What do you think?

 

@cds1984 that should work.
Your welding looks great. Go for it!
One thing I would recommend you look at is the XJ mount for the OEM exhaust system.
It has rubber isolation but still supports a lot of weight. You could adapt it, It just stiffens the whole bike.

 

Well, thats as good as I can do with a bit of plate and hammer work.
Let's see what happens, when I put the skin back on and start it up.

 

Oh, just in case anyone was wondering about the collector box construction and why all the metal is painted yellow...
My old man, who passed away a long while back now, had a little 6" x 4" trailer and he made a galvanised cover for it and painted it yellow.
The trailer is gone, but I still have the steel from the cover, which weighed just as much as the trailer I reckon.
A lot of projects around my house have super thick galvanised sheet in them obviously.
Yes, I'm a steel hoarder.

and while I'm at it... I suck at welding until I've been doing it for an hour. Everything before that needs copious grinding haha.

 

Just took it for a test ride, everything seems freeflowing, sounds a bit different (maybe) but...
1-4K(ish) is the same but Midrange is gone pretty much and winding past it is like grinding your teeth, on chalk, while you scratch your nails over a chalkboard.
So...
It might be on track, strangely... I'll raise the needles a notch (as I dropped them a notch previously because of the fouling at highway speeds) and see where I'm at!

 

I hope that you're welding outdoors, or better yet with the proper respirator.
Spare lungs aren't cheap.

 

Galvanized = smelly, harder to weld (contamination), poisonous.

 

Your engine is stock from what I'm able to gather, therefore you must retain some backpressure control. The pulses people are referring to equal high pressure, and low pressure in between pulses. Exhaust is the symphony of the engine, you want to find the sweet spot in design, that allows consistent pressure thorough out the exhaust. It will pulse and you can't stop it, however u can control the pressure it produces. Any drop in exhaust back pressure will transfer to the cylinder, and inconsistent uneven back pressures will intake speed and volume.

If you had serious engine mods ex... High lift cams or stroker crank and rod combination, the same principles will apply, but on different scales vs. Stock.
Race engines run high volume at high rpm's. A stock engine runs varing volume at varying rpm (street riding)
Race engines can blow out stock exhaust from more volume exiting over stock.

The average volumetric efficiency of a gas engine is 70%. A perfectly tuned engine is 100%VE. Even todays motors are only achieving an 85% VE

When you mess with the cylinder/exhaust valve back pressure you severely detune the VE, effecting idle, intake vacuum, power, mpg, low/mid and or high range power bands rpm range.

So minimal back pressure must be maintained.

I commend your efforts, but without propper knowledge your just pushing a square stone uphill.

 

You noticed that haha.
I agree completely, except, I can't help but try to figure it out.

 

Lol.. Keep on welding and learning my friend. I'm more than happy to watch.

 

Success!
Reset the needles back to clip 3 and everything is back on track.
Thanks for the great info Len, definitely made all the difference.

 

A final note...
Bikes runs fantastic in winter.
But was unrideable in summer.
Way too much heat retention in those, last forever, headers.
So... I have just received and installed these from www.tranzac.com.au
Looks fancy, sounds fancy.
Oh well...