Gas smell in oil

Just to make things interesting, note that there is a mistake in the Haynes manual for these.

As noted at http://xj4ever.com/catalog/c-hitachi.html
NOTE: the Haynes workshop manual for the XJ650 and XJ750 models has the incorrect placement noted for these air jets----the main air jet and pilot air jets are reversed in their picture and caption.

 

I understand they are air Jets, but having them backwards would that lead to more vacuum and draw too much gas?

 

it might but the main thing is it causes the bike to not run
is there a reason you ask?
don't over think this just fix it

 

It's still drawing excess gas to the cylinders. The bike runs, but really rough. If I hit the throttle when syncing, it takes forever for it to come down and sometimes holds at 3000 or more.

 

those jets might be your whole problem, with some long screwdrivers you should be able to fix it without pulling the rack
those are really clean carbs, i'm jealous

 

Wow!!! Thanks for the compliment!!! The only thing I didn't do was boil then. I already had the rack off, so making the change wasn't that hard. Now to put them back in, hopefully for the last time. Thanks for your help!!!

 

@Polock is correct, those in the top only control the "Air" not fuel. fuel control "jets" will be located in carb base in the bowl.

If your external adjusting screws are located down low on the carb body, then they adjust "Pilot" Fuel.

If the external screw is up high on the carb base then it will adjust "Pilot" Air

ones in top side are for "Pilot" air
and enrichment circuit.
fuel in the diaphram area indicate too much airflo into this area sucking in fuel with it.
(wrong jets in wron holes)

 

That was the problem. Changed the plugs as well and it fired up right away. Guess it was pulling too much gas and that's why I couldn't color tune. Synced, color tuned and running fine!!!! Thank you to everyone who helped me out!!!

 

Trying to upload a video of my bike running, but the file size is too large. Does anyone know what the maximum size is?

 

Can you upload it to YouTube and put a link here?

 

https://youtube.com/shorts/T3HphE3BFBo?feature=share

 

Well I guess that wasn't the problem. Checked the oil level, and it's more than full and I know I left a little space in the window to check. Draining the gas from the tank and try to figure this out again.

 

Do the needle valve seats have copper washers? Do these need to be replaced or the old ones annealed and could this be causing the fuel to get into the crankcase? I am no carburettor expert lol but l wonder if this can be a cause. No this won't be it just read back, you got parts from Len.

 

Brand new ones from Len, so that's not the issue I'm sure. I only use his parts now!
I just took the carbs off, and #2 exhaust boot was full of gas. All the intake boots have a little gas on the inside of them.

 

Is there anything on number 2 that looks different to the other three carburettors with the float bowls off. Are the needle clips fitted property. Not nit picking your work just trying to figure out what is the cause of this.

 

the only way that can happen is if the petcock isn't doing it's job
if you take the valve seat out, your back to float levels again

 

I just changed the petcock with parts from Len, unless I put it back together wrong. I'll take it off and take pictures.

 

@Glen F. at this point Im affraid you may have washed too much fuel into cam/crank bearings, I would drain all oil(and filter) refill oil and crank engine over without carbs or petcockvacume hose to ensure longevity of the bottom end.

Fuel thins the oil, and enables the crank and bearings to galge into each other causing striations and minute soft bearing fragments, that in turn galges even more resulting in bearing failure. and ultimately to a snapped rod/engine failure.

I only say this as your entire thread and testing has repeatedly dumped fuel into case. And just draining it does not replace the thined oil already in the oil passages of the crank/cam.
the vent tube and petcock is only for hard accelleration ensuring the carb bowls do not run dry/low.
for all your testing with your carb issues at idle and not in gear testing you do not need them.
a worn out petcock diaphram will either allow full flow, or hardly none at all without the vacume pulses to operate it. this is why 90% of people use a seperate fuel tank supply as to bypass this. again its not needed for light sharp accelerations/and idle/syncing testing.

 

It's a newly rebuilt petcock.
I will be changing the oil again, and turning the engine over without the carbs in as you say. I'll probably drain again and change after that. Changing the oil goes without saying.
Getting to be a pro at taking these carbs off and oil changes. LOL
I did put about 50 km last night, and when I got back there was no change to the oil level. Whatever happened, happened over night.