83 XJ550 Maxim Troubles

Hey, so long time browser turned poster here. I just got an XJ550 up and running, spent all weekend working the wiring, and I already did a carb rebuild. I installed all new lights, got everything working except the rear turn signals. Wired directly to the headlight, they work, but in line at the proper connections its a no go.
I can't for the life of me find the problem. I tried tapping the dark green wire at the switch to run my right side power, nothing. Tried tapping my front fork signals: nothing. I put in LEDs for the fork signals, tried to use a 6ohm diode by Phillips and that seems to have made them into 4way flashers. They also only function with the turn signal dummy light removed. I put in a new flasher relay too (EP35) and they flash at the appropriate speed, stay as running lights when on, albeit when i use my highbeams they turn off so maybe I need to tap the highbeam light lead as well? All my fuses are new, I installed a fuse bus with EZ ID fuses.

So here are the issues I'm having:
- Rear turn signals dont even light up, seems not to be any power to original leads, dont know where to tap now.
-Turn signal dummy light not working. Kills signal lights at front.
-Just discovered oil leaking from both mufflers when parked. Its not much, but its enough to basically trace the muffler length on both sides. No crazy smoke either, runs pretty decent. Took her out for about an hour ride today with a follow bike.

I had a perfect idle the other day where it started and ran at 1000-1500rpm with no choke. However when I started it today I had to run the choke and adjust the idle mix. So thats a bummer.

 

Anyone?

 

with leds in a maxim with single indicator in cluster you need to use a metric diode.
superbright led sells them and has a wiring diagram on how to install.
the turn signals indicator light grounds through the bulbs.

you do not need the load resistor if using an led flasher.

the oem flasher has a power side and a load side 3ed wire is for self canceler. make sure your led relay is hooked up properly.

there is a thread on Installing leds and having everything work
How to convert to LED's and still have everything work

this thread has correct relay listed
https://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/1980-xj650-led-turn-signals.47501/page-2

make sure you have voltage at rear wires and you are hooking up proper wires from led light they have polarity

 

Regarding the oil leak - you will need to figure out the source. Seems like most common thing to leak is the valve cover.

 

make sure the hose from air box to motor is connected.
oil on under mufflers could be no crush washer on drain plug
also check to see if oil level switch under motor is leaking.
is the motor oiley?

 

No power to the rear wires it seems. Just in the taillight end. I’ve been trying to chase why the lead is dead and how to run a new one but I’m SOL so far in figuring it out. Idk why I can’t seem to find where it comes off and why it doesn’t seem to work coming straight from the front signals, unless it’s because I only ran one at a time? I was figuring voltage drop since the lines are only reading 7V at the front. Would swapping my headlight to LED help by dropping the draw? Here in NYC the argument for LED isn’t a hard one given how dim these headlights seem to be.

I presume this website will have a bike linked diode so I can’t screw it up? I just picked up the Kurykadyn diodes hoping that would work. The LED flasher is correct as CF13/EP35 so I’ll swap the 34 for a 35 even though they’re both tabbed right for my set up. My reply is coming up as spam so I have to separate posts.

 

So far it seems the leakage was an isolated event. Perhaps because it was the first ride in years and it’s been humid and rainy here? Just figuring maybe if wasn’t oil so much as exhaust soot mixed with condensation?

The oil seems to have come out of the mufflers bizarrely enough but wasn’t traceable at all. It was very thin though which is why Im wondering if it was just the exhaust purge liquid. It didn’t happen again after a longer ride and sitting over night. The vent hose is in place and no traceable oil but I’ll check again tomorrow.


The oil seems fine but I’m going to drain it this week, real hard to read oil level on the bike though. The oil case fill cap makes it look low but the sight glass reads full, or as full as I can make out. The oil smells and seems good. Is there a specific crush washer I should use or is it just any old copper crush washer?

 

soot and water from pipes sounds right.

oil level put bike on center stand wait 5 minutes,
bike wants to be level on centerstand.
with flashlight look into sight glass see the lines?
you always want an air bubble at top of sight glass you can add oil above lines as long as an air bubble is visiable.
XJ550 like extra oil keeps the primary chain noise down.

so if sight glass is dirty add seafoam to oil directions on can it will clean off the sight glass and clean sludge from motor.
I add seafoam about 200 miles before oil and filter change.

when you change your oil after filling spec ed amount , when adding oil an ounce or 2 at a time level can rise quick.

when you drain oil let it drain about 20 minutes put the filter on while waiting clean the head light.

a test to do when changing oil is turn on key when oil is empty see if oil light comes on. you are testing the oil level switch.

replace your crush washer on drain bolt with your first oil change replace every 2 oil changes at most. use a torque wrench on drain plug and filter housing.

a bit about the filter housing assemblly.
inside there is a spring and washer under filter on the bolt very important for filter placement. if you dont have them get them.
most filters come with large o ring for housing it is not the correct size so get the correct size.
i seal the housing with a little rtv on outer ring. also use a small dab to hold oring in place.

our supporting vendor has spring washer and correct oring, www.xj4ever.com.

 

Thanks man, I really appreciate your write up! I never thought to seafoam a bike. I did put some marvel mystery oil in the case and tank before it’s first prolonged use just in case anything wanted to jam up. TBH made me nervous as hell because I’ve never used it on a bike or in a gas tank.

Any ideas on getting power to the rear signals?