Starting/Running Turn off Then No turn over and seized ?

I got his bike, the guy said it was running, before he had an issue he could figure out, about 2 or 3 years ago.
It had an Electrical issue, I fixed. It sat for those 2 or 3 years. I changed oil, filter, plugs and gas.
Rebuilt the carbs. I tried to start it today, oh the push button doesn't work yet. I used a remote Starter switch from solenoid to starter. It cranked and cranked and cranked, sounded like it wanted to start, but low battery.
Finally it did start, made a god awful noise like a drill or fan or something with dried bearings trying to seize.
I only let it run for a few seconds. then started it again and again only letting it run for a few seconds, maybe oil need to get rolling etc and maybe I could get a better idea where the noise was coming from, But I couldn't.
I let it run for about 15 seconds one time, gave it throttle, didn't have any power. So I shut it off.
Then In tried once more time but this time the starter wouldn't do anything. I took it off and jumped it and it would only turn a few rotations if I banged it around.
Then, I put the bike in 2nd and third gear and tried to turn motor by back wheel. it will not go but an inch or three. then bang it stops. I can turn the left side of the motor with a wrench, you can feel and hear compression.
It turns with a wrench, in gear or out, while in gear, trying to move back wheel while using wrench, the back wheel doesn't move.
And I noticed I left the fuel and Prime I guess and it started leaking ONLY out of the tube coming out of the bottom of the air box. So Might have to go back in there.
Might need a kit for the starter or a rebuilt one ?
Any ideas ?... Please.

 

Careful it isn’t hydraulic locked !

 

OH MAN Sorry, I meant to say what bike etc.
It's a 1982 XJ550 Maxim.
Can you give me more detail on what that means, and what I should do, to start checking things ?

 

if the cylinder fills up with fuel it will stop the motor from turning over pull out the spark plugs check for fuel in the cylinders
disconnect the tci if you are going to clear the cylinders of fuel it will spray every where. best to suck it out.

also if the crank case is full of fuel it can cause the same issue when the cylinders come down.

 

Hi there, Thank you. If I can turn the motor over using a wrench on the left side crankcase doesn't that mean the motor isn't locked up ?

 

Make sure if you turn it over at crank , you only turn it counterclockwise, pull the spark plugs, then turn it over with the wrench .

 

Hi there and Thanks for the reply. Yeah, I did that. Why would the rear wheel (I say rear wheel, but it's the tranny, or clutch or maybe a starter clutch/shaft ?) lock up when it is in any gear but I can turn the motor with a wrench ? AND even though the rear wheel is locked ? Shifter operates easy, no problems there. Wonder what I should try first. Pull the clutch housing ? and or the oil pan ? Valve cover maybe? The Clymer book I have isn't much on troubleshooting this at all.

 

Did you rebuild the starter with new brushes? Before taking anything else apart start there. In addition make sure your battery is fully charged. I seriously doubt there is anything wrong with the gear box . If bike has sat for awhile, the clutch disks can stick to the plates as the oil only covers the bottom half of clutch. With engine running pull clutch lever several times it may free up .

 

No, I didn't touch the starter, yet, it was working perfectly, then I turned the motor off because of the awful noise the motor was making, Went to start it and it didn't and wouldn't do anything even using a remote starter button/switch from positive cable to starter. then took the starter out and did what I mentioned in another reply in this thread. Where is a good place to get the starter brushes from ?

 

Len has starter rebuild kits contact him on info@xj4ever.com

 

Okay, now the mirrors, I know the right side is left hand thread, but, I have loosened the nuts for the mirrors as far as they will go, I see a bunch of threads, I need to make sure which way to turn those mirrors they are stuck. So the right hand mirror as a whole still needs to turn Clockwise to get it out ? and the left one is normal counter clock wise right? they won't budge, I know they can break the pedestals they are screwed into, I have been letting them soak in Liquid Wrench, even though they aren't rusty, they might have more of a white corrosion but not on the threads, more where it would be down in the female threads in the pedestal, if any. The threads on the mirrors actually Look NEW. Lol. Any Ideas ?

 

You are correct the RH mirror has LH threads.
If it’s really stuck remove them from the bike and clamp the bent mirror stalk in a vise.
This will eliminate bending forces on the connection and keep forces rotational

 

I just came from the garage and noticed the RH side of my Seca is integrated with the M/C.
So unless you’re planning on rebuilding the brakes at this time certainly not suggesting putting that in a vise. Big job
The LH mirror pedestal is easy.
It could be a PO gorilla gripped the mirrors on, or the mirror tightened in a tip over. Or it’s really corroded connection. Go gorilla on it,

 

Okay, now onto the Start Button/Solenoid deal. I have 12.76 V at the battery, she does start if I jump the Big Poles on the Solenoid. by the way. But, The 2 little wires in the connector or Red/White and Blue/White, Both have 11.43 V Whole hooked up, when I push the start button they both drop to about 0.6V. Do I still jump the Blue/White to Ground when it has power like I have read here ? or is there a cross some where ? and if I do ground it, do I do it still connected or unhook just the Blue/White or both ?
What's a PO ?

 

OH, and is it Possible to hook the solenoid backwards on this 1983 XJ550 ? Battery to wrong side ?
P.S.S. Some where on this site I seen some sort of description on the Starter Solenoid, that said if it is a SPDT or whatever and even how to take it apart. Is there a basic one Like an old ford I can use to see if it engages the starter ? I wonder about the 2 little wires...

 

PO = Previous owner. SPDT = Single Pole Double Throw.

 

I could swear it was the Starter Solenoid. I have read and read and read on this site. I must be missing something.
New, Charged Battery, New Solenoid. Cleaned many, many connections. My push button to start the bike, makes the Oil Light light up, the Green Neutral light is on when key is on. I get just below Battery voltage on both the red and blue wires to the Solenoid, but when I push the start button, they both drop to near zero. I can start it and ride no problem using a Remote Starter switch, jumping from positive of battery or solenoid to starter side of the solenoid.
When i turn on the key the Relay by fuse box/over air box clicks, but nothing when I push the button.
I am not sure which relays to unplug to bypass the "Safety Circuits" or if it's even necessary.
1 plastic relay closest to the Coils feels warm from just trying to start/Key on for a few minutes.
I have totally cleaned, scrubbed, scraped, filed, sanded ground connections etc.
Any help ? Please.
Oh, I read to ground the blue/White wire to the solenoid, but, given the info above this might not be a valid test anymore, if I do, do I disconnect it from the connector and leave the red still connected ? or ground it while everything is still hooked up some how, really not sure where to go from here.

 

Ah, Ha. Found it. I unplugged Starter Solenoid and TCI and Directly Powered red/White and Grounded Blue/White the Solenoid works.
As I said Above the Both wires, I am working with the Red/White, had Voltage and would drop to near zero when I push the Start Button.
So, With a little help of my Clymer Book, it's in very bad shape, I started checking everywhere it said the Red/White Went for Voltage drops, and FINALLY came across a relay that had it, So, LUCKILY I have an 81 xj550 and used one from that, and it worked great. But I now have 2 small problems.
The relay that is the problem was right above the coils, a 4 wire, and the wire harness that goes to the relay, 2 wires split out of just before the relay and go to the horn. The bad relay is black plastic, the only plastic one on this bike, and cant' see any I.D Numbers on it, But the one I used from my other bike is metal, but someone might have swapped it out before, because it looks just like the relay that clicks by the Fuse Box when you turn ignition on.
So, What is this bad relay called ? I could not find anything in the Vendor areas.
What else does this bad relay operate ?
Is the metal Relay going to work properly or will something go wrong with it, since maybe it's not made for this. I opened the plastic one and it was rusty inside I am letting it soak right now, but I See a little capacitor or diode or something soldered down in there.
And the big question, where do I purchase this relay ? Not knowing numbers or What it's called and what ALL it functions.
Maybe I can get a relay from an automotive parts store, if I knew the specs of it ?

 

ALL relays on your bike were originally the metal-cube style. SOME of the relays were available thru Yamaha as a plastic-cover replacement when the original stock of the metal-cover version was depleted.

ALL relays are different from each other, and cannot be OPERATIONALLY swapped between positions, although they can all PHYSICALLY be put into any position that requires a relay.

ALL relays have a paint stripe on their terminal side (red, yellow, blue, or no-color) that identifies which relay it is (of course, if the inked ID marks are still present on the top cover of the cube, that can also be used to properly ID a relay).

Once you have determined which specific relay you have in your hand, then determining which harness connector it should be plugged into is a matter of looking at the combo of different wire colors going into the plastic connector; that mix of wire colors is also unique to each position:

https://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/the-ultimate-relay-switch-sensor-and-diodes-guide.27543/

The ONLY relay which has a (somewhat) suitable aftermarket version is the headlight relay; the sidestand relay and the neutral system relays are specific, unique, and Yamaha-only items.

 

Hey, Chacal, Thank you. It will be the Starting/Ignition Cut-Off/Neutral Safety relay.
Where Do I get one of those? I can't seem to find it in the Vendor Section.
And I need the plastic shell connector for the wires, mine disintegrated.