XJ700X work updates.

Also don't pull the cam caps one by one but unbolt them all evenly. And also don't mix up the buckets. I always take the cams completely out, didn't know it is possible to do the job with the cams zip tied to the chain.

 

Yeah, I meant don’t mix up the buckets.... typed the wrong thing..but don’t mix up the caps either——-

yeah, ziptie the cam sprockets to the chain so you don’t change the tooth position

 

From member ‘desinger_mike’:
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I'll chime in with a couple tips:
To get the buckets out of the head, I used a valve lapping drive. (a suction cup on a wood handle). Slipped them right out.

The shims usually "stick" to the inside of the bucket when you pull them up due to the precise finish and film of oil. DO NOT drop one down the engine!

Leave the plugs in the holes (see comment about dropping stuff into the engine)

I removed one drive screw on each camshaft gear and then rotated it 180 degrees and then remove the other two. THEN use wire ties to secure the chain to the gear so you don't need to worry about the timing. Mark the direction of the cam on the gear before you spin it.
I also wired the chain up on the front and back so it didn't skip a cog on the crankshaft.
Once the screws were out I slid a 5/16" threaded rod through the center of the camshaft and tightened nuts down on each side to make it easy to spin the camshaft without turning over the engine. Once the rod was tight, I could turn it by cranking the nuts (trying to tighten them)

You need a NARROW feeler gauge set to get into the intake valves. About 3/8" wide will fit. The set will need to go down to .0015" or .002"

HAP's shim pool is great but it will take a little time to send the shims back and forth so don't expect to get them back in a day.
Some of us have a bunch of spares on the shelf so start a thread when you figure out what you need and we'll check our stash.

Go slow, plug the camchain slot with rags and don't drop anything.
Do NOT overtorque the camshaft caps or you will be bumming!
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