Beginner restoration of a 82 XJ550 Maxim

Oops! just realized we are talking about a 550, please ignore as your carb spacing is tighter.

 

The surge tank would definitely be a good option ! and local parts are always nice, maybe I could look into that. probably cheaper than i can make one up lol

 

My bike is a xj650. guess I kinda hopped in on the wrong convo lol

 

Alright boys. You know between a new baby, moving, and all sorts of things it's been slow progress but hey! I'm making small steps!

I was able to finally get in there and do the Shim swaps, from the last posts of mine you can follow the whole logic behind that. Thanks everyone for the help. I believe that now my valve clearances are now in spec. The moment of truth was finally here, after the bike sitting for like 8 months ish since that last rough run, I got the battery back in, got my little aux tank with more ethanol free gas, and.... can't get the dang thing to run!

Now, here is the situation. Last year late summer I took the carbs all apart, got it all back together, changed oil, plugs, etc, and got it running (roughly though, with some ghost revving) I was using ethanol free then as well. Thats when I decided to do the valve clearances, and life happened. Now, I believe I put it all back together the way it should be like I had it, but I'm not getting it to turn over. Aux tank just hangs from the handlebars, goes directly into the carbs so no petcock. I let the carbs fill up first then when it stopped I knew things were full and I tried.

In my other small engines I use ethanol free, and the carb doesn't seem to get gummed up or gross, after the winter I can usually pull a few times and start things right back up!

Hate is a gentle word for how I feel the process is for taking the carb out from that unholy small space and messing with it I'm curious if anyone has any simple ideas for me. Or are things pointing back to the carbs? Any things I can do without taking them totally apart again?

 

-Heat gun to soften the boots,
-Light Smear of engine oil or Vaseline on the manifold boots ... NOT on the airbox boots— you want the stiction to help the clamps hold them in place.

 

Yeah I've used those tips to help get the carbs out the other times. However, I was more wondering 1. if you guys thought for sure it was the Carbs that needed to be recleaned even though they shouldn't have much in them, just evaporated ethanol free gas, and now new gas. 2. If it is the carbs, is there anything I can put in them, or smaller parts to do prior to a full pull apart again?

 

Did you sync the carbs when you put them back on? I’m not seeing that in the description

 

I did not sync them. About 8 months ago I had done the church of clean, then put it back together, and got things to run a little bit but it was really rough. So I knew I needed to do the valve clearances as well. Fast forward, I finally did the valve clearances, but now I can't get it to run or fire.

 

Gentlemen and xj wizards… IM BACK! Couple large remodels, another kid, truck work… but my xj550 sitting in my man cave has been whispering sweet nothings saying it needs attention after sitting so close to finished. So here we are!

Update on what’s been done. Did valve clearances like 18 months ago, been sitting since. Took the tank off last week and derusted, cleaned, got it back on. Has had a in line filter. Cleaned the bikes outsides. I had done a carb cleaning about 2 years ago before it sat, and it has only had ethanol free in it so shouldnt have much gunk. Sprayed some starting fluid in the air box and got it fired up! Ran high RPMs with choke on, would bring choke down to bring the rpms down but then had to give it some throttle to keep it alive. Thought it was close to idle so needed adjustment is all. Got it warm and drove around the block a bit thinking I’d get the juices flowing. Could not get it to idle well, and then, it stopped starting on its own. (Lucky I threw the starting fluid can in the storage container cause I had a feeling) had to use that a few times to get home. Now I can get it running with a squirt of fluid, but only on full choke. If I give it gas it dies, if I drop choke it dies. I twisted the idle screw this way and that which seemed to have no impact. Just strange it seemed to run better and then the longer I ran it got worse. Last thing I noticed at the end, was the 2 outside exhausts (1&4 sitting on the bike left to right) are cold. (Warm from radiant heat but not nearly as hot as the inside two). STRANGE. I checked spark, and both those outside plugs have spark… so not that.

alright wizards. Help me get this thing purring, am I missing something here?

My current plan is to take off and clean the carbs AGAIN, make sure the floats are in spec, jets clean, 2.5 turns out… those outside two not firing make sense why the choke is keeping it alive. Maybe all four ran at first and then over time some gunk worked into those outside two and now it’s not wanting to run? I’m trying not to lose hope haha help!?

 

If it is the two outside cylinders, that would indicate an issue with the 1/4 coil… Switch the coil connectors, and the spark plug leadsAnd see if the problem stays with that coil or not

 

I was thinking of that idea too once I saw the coils are setup that way. Any idea why when I pulled those two, put a little metal in and let it arc to the plug so I could see that it still had spark? If the coil was bad wouldn't they not spark? It is just odd that it's 1 and 4 if it's something other than coils I guess.

 

You’ll hafta do some coil testing then

 

Do you mean just swapping the two or something more? If you have links or directions to help that would rock if you're thinking of more than just the swap.

I'm still planning to pull and check the carbs just to be sure they are clean.

 

Check with Kmoe in testing values of coils. I just know to swap connections and leads to see if the prom let goes to the other side or not

 

Well I put the plugs of 2 and 3 onto 1 and 4 to see if anything would work. It wouldn’t fire up at all. So I put them back to 2&3 and it fired for a second. I thought it might be problems with 1 and 4 carbs?
Looked deeper, took the carbs off drained them, started taking apart. Looking for patterns for 1 and 4 of course took the first jet off and noticed something! The middle two are wet, and 1 and 4 are dry! I’m talking about the larger middle jet when upside down looking at the floats. It screws into that middle slider with the many holes. (Like my expert terms!? Haha attached picture) Noticed on the other side that the area about the membrane on 2 was wet, more than the rest I’d say. (Attached picture)

Oddly enough the rest looks really clean, no real gunk, all jet holes are clear so far in take apart. I’d any of this pointing to something? My rookie thought is maybe the floats? If 1&4 are dry maybe something with those? They appear very close though, similar spring in them… hmmm thoughts? Direction? Happy to send pics of anything. A neighbor said, “Google said you need to find a pro to get those figured out” I said, “nah I trust my boys at xjbikes! I have the heart to try doing it!”

 

Hogfiddle is “kmoe” a user? I couldn’t find him in the messaging. It would be good to check coils I guess unless we know it’s not that now.

 

Look for “ k-moe “

 

Got it. Thanks. And any thoughts or direction from anyone on what I found in the carbs!?

 

Top of diaphragms should be dry. You’re getting fuel backing up on top. I’d check valve clearances, I’d check for pinholes in diaphragms too

 

Alright, quick question, I’ve got the wheels off to take to a local shop for swapping in the tires I bought and then balancing…

how much do I take them apart? The rear has the sprocket and the drum on still (shoes and cover are off), is that what they want or do I take off the sprocket, the thick axle washer on that side, etc? Same on front, do I leave the disc on?

 

Take a couple pics of the rim as it is, then go talk with the shop..... they can let you know if anything else needs to come off.

 

Holy smokes, having too much fun today. Have the bike all torn apart. Brakes, Carbs, fusebox, and I've got an order in to our man Len at xj4ever for a bunch of random things. Excited to put it all together.

I had a few questions on other things I wanna do as I'm doing this full revamp. Oil... I live in Utah, Temperature does get below freezing (although I'm not riding in that). But I want something that will work all season long most likely as I won't be putting tons of miles on it. For my climate I'm seeing: 10W40 or 20w50. Recommendations on stuff I can easily get my hands on that will work good?

 

I'd still follow the manual on the oil recommendations regardless, you're putting a lot of love & labor into your bike so why compromise on a few quarts of oil? Shell Rotalla T-5 seems to be the popular choice for the majority, at present I'm running a straight Pennzoil 10W40 dino-oil with STP oil treatment (blue bottle) for the add'l zinc content in my 750 SECA following the recommended "ratio" and overall this makes it roughly a 20W50.
One thing not mention was if you have overhauled the engine, if so I'd go with a break-in oil first.
Keep rockin' the XJ

 

From how I'm reading the charts, for my temperature range I'm seeing 10w40. Is that gonna work for me through the summer too? But be able to keep in the winter?

 

I see talk about the Shell Rotella, but it not being JASO MA, or maybe thats some versions. Anyone have a link to walmart or amazon or somewhere I can get this stuff that is the right one for the xj550?

 

Rotella T4 is JASO MA/MA2 and JASO DH-2 rated.
Rotella-T4-Triple-Protection-SAE-15W-40-Diesel-Motor-Oil-1-Gal-550045126/300387920

 

Thank you this is the link I needed!

 

Had a question pop in my head. The oil in it has like 1 mile in it but is over a year old and might have a little gas in it from the carbs being bad. I add the oil as one of the first things I did when I first got the bike so I wasn't turning it over dry as I fixed it up.

So with this oil change happening with my carb rebuild and other things, would you:
1. do the oil change last, so after it's all rebuild and will run, run it for a few minutes so the oil moves around and gets warm, let it then gather in the bottom and then drain and replace filter and oil.
2. Before I try running it after the carb rebuild, drain and replace. Doesn't matter if the oil is warm or hasn't moved in a few weeks.

 

Smell your hole.
No, I mean smell your oil filler hole. Does it smell gassy? Drain it and replace it. Does it smell like a regular crankcase? Top it off and go ride.

 

haha very nice Hogfiddles. I haven't smelt a ton of crankcases in my day, but to me it does smell a little more fummy like gas. It seems like a cheap precaution compared to all the other money going into other things. I just was curious on if I needed to warm it up first or just drain it to start.

 

You can warm it up if you wish, but I’d just go a head and drain it out

 

Thanks guys. Ok next thing. P.s. gosh its exciting to have it all a part and new parts on the way, gonna be sweet to reassemble with working pieces.

So I've got the brakes all torn down. I'm upgrading to stainless steel lines, new MC, Pads on the front. I thought it would be good to take apart the caliper and clean it, make sure its moving smooth. Problem is... is that cup piece able to come out? Doesn't seem to want to budge. It's probably out an inch ish from when I pulled it off. Tips? Is it needed? Might be fine, I guess I won't know till I hooked it all back up. I tried blowing a little bit of air in the brake fluid hole with air valve still in. I don't have a bolt on hand to try the reverse(plug fluid hole and spray in air release hole) , unless that's the key.

Thoughts? Is it needed? How can one easily do it, ideally without specialty tools.

 

Anyone got a resource for me on the above question? Getting the caliper cup out cleaned and back in? Is that needed?

 

Yes, it's necessary. The "cup" is really called the piston, and there are a variety of methods of removal. Note that any of these methods may/will result in the piston becoming, literally, just like 40mm (or so) artillery shell, so make sure that it's pointed away from you (or anything near and dear to you) during the removal process, and the best practice would be to put a piece of wood, etc. against the caliper and wedge it across the caliper body "arms" to restrict the travel of the piston as soon as it exits the caliper body.

And by the way, except for method "a" below, when the piston does break free of the caliper body, besides shooting out like a small missile, it will make a very loud "bang", which can startle small children and large pets and unaware novices at performing this process. A very loud bang........

It's never a bad idea to soak around the outer edge of the piston with penetrating oil to (hopefully) make extraction by any of the following methods easier:

a) if the caliper is still attached to the master cylinder, then pump the master cylinder with the hand lever a few times.

b) if the caliper is no longer attached to the master cylinder, remove the brake hose union bolt, and using a rubber-tipped nozzle on an air compressor, plug the rubber tip into the port where the union bolt entered the caliper, and apply air pressure. Note that unlike method "a", this method is what will really turn the piston into a very large bullet if/when it pops free of the caliper body.

c) if the caliper is no longer attached to the master cylinder, and method "b" above doesn't work, then the only other method is to get a grease gun, a special adapter to introduce grease into the caliper (our HCP12230 "piston popper"), and pump grease into the caliper body (grease is basically uncompressible, and a grease gun generates tremendous pressures --- up to 3000psi,much more than the 120 or so psi that an air compressor can --- and this method will (slowly and messily) remove the piston (under 3000psi of pressure, so watch out!).


The reason the piston is stuck is because crud and crap and other bad things have injured the rubber seals inside the caliper body, and they have swollen, seized, and/or deformed and are "locking" the piston in the caliper body. You need a caliper rebuild kit (which includes those seals) and you'll most probably find that you need a safe method of cleaning the seal LANDS in the caliper body, as any built-up, baked-on (calipers get hot......) remnants in those lands will prevent new seals from sitting in those lands properly, and you'll have the same or similar version of this problem even with brand new seals installed.....

 

Oh, and by the way, the caliper piston does not "wear out", and unless it has rust or gouges/scratches on the OUTER faces, it is perfectly re-usable. It's the rubber seals that the piston slides against that wear out or become damaged......

 

The time to release the piston is before stripping your brakes, pump it out with the brake lever.

 

Minimutly is correct. Very simple if you just take the pads out then pump the piston out. I ended up putting things back together to do that.


Question for the group, when you put the piston back in after cleaning everything up, how tight should it be? Like… I probably can’t get it back down far enough for the pads without a c clamp. Should I have silicone greased it? Can I do the clamp?

 

I use brake fluid to fit the pistons into the caliper.

 

Wet setting the carbs on the xj550's. Anyone got a DIY plug or way to connect to that port on the bowls? I'm on the way out of the valley of doom, or light depending on perspective, from the church of clean and I'm to the wet set before I rejoin, bench sync, hook them up and then vacuum sink.

Anyone got some tips on this? I know chacal has the part, he's got everything, a fountain of glory he is. But I kinda wanted to see if I could get it done tomorrow, and I don't wanna wait for shipping!

 

HCP1592 OEM clear-tube FUEL LEVEL TUBE GAUGE, used to check the fuel level in the bowls when the bowls are installed by attaching the end of the clear tube to the float bowl drain nipple, and then holding the graduated fuel gauge up against the side of the fuel bowl. Black millimeter markings on the measurement tube allow you to easily determine the fuel level with respect to the bowl-to-body reference point. For use on all XJ models with fuel bowl drain nipples (all models with Hitachi carbs and XJ600 Seca II, XJ1100, and XS1100 models with Mikuni carbs, and all other Mikuni carbs using our HCP26218 adapter tool or the HCP8494 drain outlet nipples).
$

HCP4926x2 Aftermarket clear-tube FUEL LEVEL TUBE GAUGE, used to check the fuel level in the bowls when the bowls are installed by attaching the end of the clear rubber tube to the float bowl drain nipple, and then holding the other end against the side of the fuel bowl. Unlike the original gauge HCP1592 listed above, this is just a clear section of fuel line and does NOT have the upper end with any graduated markings. For use on all XJ models with fuel bowl drain nipples (all models with Hitachi carbs and XJ600 Seca II, XJ1100, and XS1100 models with Mikuni carbs, and all other Mikuni carbs using our HCP26218 adapter tool or the HCP8494 drain outlet nipples).
$


HCP26218 Aftermarket float bowl FUEL LEVEL TUBE ADAPTER TOOL, for use on almost all Mikuni carb bowls which do not have a tube nipple cast into the bowl drain output port (note that XJ1100 or XS1100 models, do have a cast-in bowl drain nipple). Unlike Hitachi carbs, Mikuni float bowls do not have a permanent float bowl drain outlet port fitting which the clear tube fuel level gauge can be attached onto; nope, there's just an empty hole there. Yamaha supplied dealership service departments with a special o-ringed brass adapter fitting that pops into this hole, and which could be used during fuel-level checks….moving this (non-permanent) adapter from bowl-to-bowl as the fuel-level checking process proceeded. This reproduction o-ringed aluminum adapter properly duplicates the function of the original (note: for a permanent adapter solution, you can use the HCP8494 bowl drain nipples below).
$


HCP8494 Aftermarket float bowl DRAIN NIPPLE, for all Mikuni carb bowls on XJ550, XJ650 Turbo, XJ700-X, XJ750-X, XJ900 models (but not on XJ1100 models, which have a cast-in bowl drain nipple). Unlike Hitachi carbs, Mikuni float bowls do not have a permanent float bowl drain outlet port fitting which the clear tube fuel level gauge can be attached to; no, there's just an empty hole there. The factory had a special o-ringed brass adapter fitting that fit into this hole that would be used during fuel-level checks, but very few people have that adapter and even it is somewhat cumbersome to use. These precisely machined nipples are designed for permanent installation into the Mikuni float bowls----just tap them in place, they are a friction-fit----and them you can slip the fuel-level gauge tube directly onto the protruding end of the fitting. Simple 20-second installation: clean the inside of the drain port in the bowl, use a bit of silicone lube on the adapter, place proper end in drain port, and gently tap in place with a hammer. Once installed, it's leak-free but can still be removed (not easily, but it can!), in case your preferences ever change in the future. Protrudes approximately 1/8" from the drain port, enough to install the clear tube gauge but not enough to interfere with other carb functions. Looks original once installed. Fits Mikuni carbs used on all XJ550 models, XJ650 Turbo, XJ700-X, XJ750-X, and XJ900 models. Use 1 per float bowl. Each:
$

 

So call me crazy or call this site amazing but I’ve been able to do all this stuff so far without a manual. Been just looking up specific things as I go and finding answers here. However, it would be faster probably to have one, and the right one.

Anyone have or know who has the 82 XJ550 Maxim manual in pdf? Or if I’m looking online, what one should I be looking for?

 

Try here.

https://xjcd.org/index.php/service-manuals

 

Thanks Franz! What's the tip for knowing whether my 550 maxim is a H/J or K? Does it matter much?

 

Check this.

https://xjbikes.com/forums/threads/...ully-id-your-bike-in-threads-you-post.116389/

 

H=1981
J=1982
K=1983

not sure how much the 550s changed over the model years. Probably not too much

 

Alright wizards, in need of some wisdom. Feeling a bit discouraged and confused after attempting multiple times to wet set the carbs today. I followed Chacals detailed instructions for the most part (besides some DIY tools) Here is what I did:
- Made a stand out of screws, basically on the bowl screw locations, but because screws have a wider top it is a snug fit, which is great you can level nicely side to side and front to back because of that. So they are level all ways. Marked 2mm line on bowl from top.
- Got some 1/4in O.D clear vinyl hose, put a little bit of electrical tape on the end to make it a snug fit and boom had my wet set measuring tube ready.
- Opened the Aux tank up, let the bowls fill. It appears to stop.
- I looped the measuring tube back to the bowl and pointing up on the center of the bowl and tried to hold it still.
- Then I slowly opened the drain screw till fuel came out.
*this is when it gets... confusing*
- If I don't move, the measurement comes to a stop, usually what seems really low. But the tube would have some air bubbles in it. (so I wasn't sure If i'm not suppose to move it at all or get those bubbles out.) I'd say without moving, I'm like 4mm lower on the bowl than the 2mm line. So I would move the line around letting the bubbles work out and when they get out, suddenly I'm like 3-4 mm higher than the 2mm mark. It's like in the body by a mm or so at that point.

I did this once, twice, three times, maybe four adjusting that one carb till I thought I got it to the 2mm line. Thought I got it so I drained them, and measured the floats from the gasket body to the top(bottom) of the floats, looking for that 21.5mm number just to check. It was like 25-26mm... has anyone ever seen it be that high to reach that 2mm wet set line? *something interesting that I noticed was that 2 of the carbs during these checking process and sitting for a bit while I did that would start to to leak gas out the air intake side. I was assuming it was the floats being too high, so I figured maybe I do need that 25mm number to push the float down and have less gas in the bowl so they aren't overflowing.

Following instructions I adjusted the other three to match, put it all back together, filled them up, and started measuring. This is when I noticed that hose thing again. Without moving it was low, after getting bubbles out, it's high, and then the dreaded leak out one of the intakes started again...

Now it's 1am haha I was determined and now a bit defeated. Here are some thoughts, thinking out loud:
- With the float measurement for all of them now at 25-26 mm... the gas should be lower when its shuts off... and so it should be overflowing right?
- I recently within the last year replaced all the float needles... could it be the seats? Are those suppose to be a tight like O-ring greased type fit? They seem to just slide down in there but feel all plastic, not spot for a rubber washer? Just trying to figure out that leak...
- Am I doing something horribly wrong with the wet set measurement, why can't I get it consistent? Also anyone seen that high of a float measurement for the 2mm line?

At this point its drained, sitting there upside down ready to be taken a part again, but I'm not sure what else to try. Ideas, thoughts, miraculous dreams? I hope I have one tonight... goodnight.

 

Fuel flowing out would suggest needles stuck open or not seating right. With your tubing, don't have a dip in the tubing when you first open the drain screw. Let gas start to fill and then you can position it without any air. If it looks too high, lower the tubing and the fuel should flow to its level. Every time you lower the tubing, the gas should re-level. It is a royal pain in the buttocks, I know.

 

Yeah... the needles are new... so I'm trying to figure out with the leaking. 1. Is it the needle seat (the piece with the mesh dome the needle sits in) Is that suppose to have rubber and be a push in fit? Mine drop in, they don't wiggle around or anything but yeah... thinking something around there.

On the float height, do most of you find that if that is at that 21.5 mm, that when you do the wet measurement it's pretty close to 2mm on the bowl, or does it vary quite a bit?

 

Looks like you have Mikuni carbs and the float seat is sealed with an o-ring in a groove around the body and the seat is held in place with a little fork shaped clamp. Without the o-ring you'll have leakage.

 

Great pic, yes I'm wondering about that o ring. Mine seem to be a little different, made of plastic I thought in the middle. Can anyone confirm the xj550's have that O ring that can be replaced? @chacal ?