82 xj650 bare bones wiring help

I’ve been working on my xj650 for about 4 months now trying to bring it to life. When I originally got it the bike was ‘complete’. It cranked when you pressed starter button but no spark to the coils. I’ve since then replaced the coils, TCI, rectifier, and starter solenoid. The wiring harness was oem and in I’d say bad shape so I decided to bare bones wire the bike. After getting the initial minimum wiring in (minus lights), replacing ignition switch with a led toggle, and cleaning ground points I tried the starter button and… nada. I jumped the solenoid and the starter engaged. I checked continuity and no breaks. I’m at a loss now. Can someone please help in the next direction I needa go to get some spark please!?

 

unplug the connector at the solinoid test for ground from connector wire that runs to start button .
hook test light to plus on battery and pin in connector that goes to button . press button lightshould light.

you can use a meter hook meter to ground and to same pin in connector press starter button should get reading.

i know you used min wiring this is stockk but gets the same info.

you have no starter safety relay just solinoid to fused power
power into solinoid then goes to button when presed it makes ground. check for voltage to solinoid connector then to starter button. make sure the black wire in the control is hooked to a ground sourxe

 

I’ll try this asap. Also I used the original oem connectors… think maybe that may be why? All the grounds are soldered together and bolted on frame. Frame point and connection point sanded. As are main grounding wires for battery and engine. All wires soldered together. New battery but I suspect it may be low needa check?

 

UPDATE:

Ok so after countless hours in the garage I finally have the initial wiring hooked up! Had a few connections on the accessory end that I overlooked and had to do some more digging on a better wiring schematic that I cold read. I still have yet to do a ignition components check. I have 2 TCIs that both are obviously damaged. One I won’t bother with but the other had what I believe one or 2 transistors kinda rusty solder points. Cleaned em up and added some fresh solder….
Here’s to hoping!!

 

Trying to test starting components (stator, brushes, coils) after the soldering attempt (no clue if worked) and I’m having trouble reading the three white stator wires. Is it possible to have a bad internal connection between stator and rotor or the rotor and brushes? Like maybe someone’s greasy fingers left a smudge or gasket maker got on it…

 

Statorr doesn't directly connect to the rotor. It's hard to read the stator values because they are so small in most digital meters don't like that because you really measuring inductance and not resistance. The rotor resistance is measured through the brushes the brown and green wire. You can also measure rotor resistance by going directly to the copper rings on the rotor

 

Yes the road can be dirty and you can clean it with an eraser. The brushes can be too short to make contact there's a wear line on the side of them. If you see any oil in there it needs a seal behind the rotor is leaking.

 

Update on bike!!
After countless checks and rechecks I determined the wiring is fine and all other component spec’d out… aside from the ‘uncheckable’ TCI. I’ve replaced that put everything needed back on the bike (carb rack, temp fuel container,etc) and SHE FIRES UP! Granted it was starter fluid induced cause turns out my second carb had fuel gushing out I let side. No clue what that’s about but dammit she fired! Took carbs off gonna do a rebuild with upgraded Allen bolt hardware cause I gotta feeling these Phillips screws are gonna cause me a headache. Onto the next chapter yall!!

 

When you put the carbs back on and connected fuel, it is possible the floats in #2 stuck and the needle valve never could seat to stop the flow. Tapping the bowl with a plastic screwdriver handle can sometimes free it up. I've had the floats stick while on the bench adjusting the float levels. That is a mess when gas is flowing out the overflow lines, etc.

 

You may be right about that valve being stuck open I noticed it was slightly higher. But let me ask you this and what I’m about to say is all PO stuff I’ve noticed but theirs a top screw missing on carb #1 and float screw missing on carb #4. This is an obvious problem that lead my earlier statement of Allen head replacement. What exact problems might this cause?

 

Just checked the float and it’s closed. Gas still gushing out front like a water fall…

 

Missing 'top' screw on #1? On the hat/diaphragm cover? If the cover is tight it may not affect anything but is better to hit the hardware store and get one. What is a float screw? If gas is gushing out the float needle is not closing, that is the only way gas gets into the carb.
How do you check if the float is closed? If you pull the bowl, the needle will not be closed/seated and you can't know what is happening when the bowl is reinstalled.

 

I meant the bottom four bowl screws and I’ve already got all replacement screws for the carbs. I took it apart last night and there was corrosion and clogged holes everywhere. It’s safe to say I’m gonna need a complete rebuild regardless.

 

Maybe just a complete cleaning. If you were missing one of the bowl screws, maybe the leak was coming from that corner. Still, if the float needle was working correctly, the fuel level should stay below the bowl gasket if the bike was upright. Maybe below a left corner if on the kickstand.

 

Considering a few of the jets were already stripped from PO I will not be taking any chances.