bogus relay tests in Haynes ?

I've been following directions from the Haynes manual for testing the side stand relay. The test for winding
resistance across the two pins in the left ( under the blue dot) seems to have the proper ohms of resistance.
but the test for continuity across the two pins on the right shows "0) resistance whether the battery is connected or not, I have a bunch of blue dot (side stand) relays, they all test the same, can they all be bad ? or is the Haynes test wrong ?

 

Is the zero resistance supposed to be with the plunger out or pushed in?

 

I'm not near my bike nor my copy of Haynes now, but do a Find for 'sidestand' here and see if that helps: https://www.xjcd.org/book/export/html/83

Looks like the coil side (left) is supposed to have 100 Ohms. Switch side (right) should have 0 Ohms (closed/complete circuit) with no voltage to the coil and infinite Ohms (open circuit) with 12V across the coil. I.e. a N.C. relay. Which makes sense in that if the relay coil or sidestand switch itself fails (or switch removed without shorting), or mice eat the wires, etc. it'll default to NOT running, for safety. If my schematic/text reading is correct.

Note, the sidestand switch is 'on' when the sidestand is UP (which, IIRC is plunger OUT). So the coil is energized w/ stand up. Note also the relay closing grounds out the TCI - so you want the relay open (and sidestand closed) to run. A little counterintuitive.

This makes sense in my head, but feels like it came out mud. I'll happily take corrections.

 

was testing the kickstand relay while it was out of the bike

I tested the kickstand relay while it was out of the bike . I held the test leads between the two pins on the right under the blue dot. The needle of the multi tester moved to a little past half way indicating
resistance in the windings. The test for the points opening or not was to apply battery power to the pin on the left, farthest from the blue dot and the pin on the right ,closest to the dot. the multimeter probes were connected across the pins on the right. Power on, open circuit. power off no resistance. The reason I was asking about the accuracy of the test was that I tested 4 different kickstand relays and I got 0 resistance on the meter both with the power on and off. I suppose the contacts in all those relays could be stuck shut from being left outside . I will open one of the relays and check.

 

4 for 4 feels like it's not the relays and something with the testing procedure, but if you're OK sacrificing one, cool.

 

If truly stuck, might try rapping on one with the handle of a screwdriver while power is applied to see if you can get it to break contact. I've had relays latch without proper flyback protection and a good jostle gets them back into service for a while.

 

Just tested mine per the Hanes manual. It gives a distinctive "ting"/click when powering the coil. Resistance behaves as expected. I shot a quick vid in case it sheds any light: https://youtube.com/shorts/ZQrVxoSt_Sw?feature=share

 

Yes, I will get a fresh multi tester from Harbor freight. and try again. but all my relays came from parts bikes that may have sat outside for unknown periods of time.

 

Well, the reason I was testing the relays in the first place was that when I turned the key, the neutral light came on, horn worked and blinkers flashed ,but the starter button didn't work.
I did a search on this forum and from an old post I learned that by jumping the 2 red/white wires at the cutoff relay terminal, the starter button will work with the safety systems bypassed.
I did this and the starter button worked and engaged the starter. I also checked and had spark, so I fed gas into the carbs with a rigged up fuel bottle , pulled back on the enrichment lever,
pushed the button and the engine fired. Unfortunately it only ran for ten seconds or so and quit. Now, still have lights horn etc. when the key is turned, but the starter button is dead even
with those wires at the cutoff jumped. No fuses blown battery strong. What else could cause this failure ? tci ? rectifier ? Does some other device need to be reset ? Maybe disconnecting and
reconnecting the battery would help.

 

True, but you also need a good battery and connections, a good ignition switch, a good ignition fuse, a good stop/run switch, a good starter solenoid, a good starter switch, and good wiring - excepting the starter as you don't hear a clunk from the starter solenoid.

Installing the jumpers only eliminates the neutral switch, or the clutch / side stand switch if trying to start in gear. It does nothing to verify whether all the other components are working

The side stand relay has nothing to do with the starter engaging, its sole purpose is to control the TCI and keep the bike from running with the side stand down while in gear

 

new ign. switch, battery. tested wiring from start button through the safety system red/white, blue/white- black,kill switch and start button circuits. new starter relay, changed out oem
fuse box for blade type, tested that. jumped wires in front of cutoff relay. then starter button worked. I pushed it several times/ no problem. pushed it again to test for spark. button was working great. so fueled up carbs and tried to start it. it started right up with enrichment engaged, but only ran for 10-15 second befor quiting. would it be something in the charging- tci
circuits i had the same problem a few months ago, then it seemed to run fine. was running it with external cooling fan while tuning carbs and it just quit. I have extra 650seca tci and regulator maybe trading them out would help ? and again no fuses blown. what other circuits to test ? built the bike from parts bikes on a titled frame I bought. harness used seemed in good shape.could this involve the timing sensors on the left end of crank ?

 

Well then you missed something. It is really simple, you need 12 V on one side of the starter solenoid - battery > ignition switch > ignition fuse > run switch > starter circuit cutoff relay contact (you have those jumpered), then all you need is a ground for the other side of the starter solenoid, which is supplied by the starter button switch and wiring.

So, if you have 12 V on one side of starter solenoid (R/W wire) and you push the starter button and nothing happens a ground (L/W wire) was not supplied either because the switch is bad or the wiring is open, or the solenoid is defective

If you don't have 12 V on one side of the starter solenoid then you need to trace where it stops per the components listed above

 

thanks for the tip. That's helpful I'll check all that