Aligning locks to one key

Hi All

I did a search, honest I did, but no immediate joy. My bike has three locks and three keys. I know in theory it should be possible to disassemble and swap around 'wafers' to get all locks working to the one key..

But has anyone done this and documented the process? I may have tried before but given up through lack of confidence/info.

Cheers

 

This only works if the keys are the same type
Single slot left or right
Double slot left or right

 

There is a poor man's, redneck or wrong way to do this, depending on your perspective. But it works. Still requires the key type to fit as @Toomanybikes has said.

Insert the key, remove the cylinder, file down the protruding wafers. And I can't recall at the moment if, depending on ignition or fuel cap, if inserting the key is required for cylinder removal. But if you remove the cylinder without the key inserted, do it inside a shoebox or plastic bag because if those tiny springs decide to come out.........!!!!

 

Does anybody know how to translate a key code to wafer sizes? I've looked around for info but can't find anything. Seems like there must be a logical way to choose wafers based on key code.

My idea was to just try to measure the wafers and compare enough key codes to figure out how key codes map to wafers - not sure if it would work or not.

 

Also, I'm sure a qualified locksmith would be able to help - if you can find a qualified locksmith anymore.

 

Yep noted this before on my old VW.. although getting to this point (to access the wafers) with the XJ appear to be my stumbling block.

 

Quite!

 

And of course my bike has a replacement (FB marketplace) tank, and the gas cap key is of a different type from the ignition and helmet lock...

 

It's been a while since I had one apart, so my memory is fuzzy, but it seemed like the barrel with the wafers is released from the inside. Take the steering lock off the bottom and the contact ring and rotating parts (take photos, keep things in order) and then there's a clip you have to slide sideways on the bottom of the barrel to release. I don't believe you need the key inserted, but it is advisable because of the tiny spring problem. The first time I ever did this the springs flew and I didn't think it would ever go back together, but somehow managed it. So if you remove the wafers to change their position, be prepared with a magnifying glass and tweezers and the patience of a watchmaker.

 

yep , i agree with the above , ive been looking into this for a few weeks now, as i have a good ignition switch without a key.
so
i got the key from one of my other XJs and inserted it into the lock first, then removed the switch part from the key part.
then to remove the barrel from the lock from the inside, the last tumbler has to be depressed (if the key doesnt depress it).
then ,, be carefull if you remove the key the wafers may spring out.
now there are a multitude of different wafers , its not just a case of swopping the wafers around there are more different ones than are in the lock, mine has 8 wafers, and i didnt have enough of the correct ones ,even with the ones from an old knackered switch , so with 16 different wafers , i did'nt have enough .
i took the barrel to a local "Timpsons" (locksmith and cobblers ) and they could'nt cut a key to number or barrel, they could only copy an existing key,
so , im hoping a yamaha dealer can supply a key to the number on the barrel, but so far they havent replied to my e-mails

 

If you have a number these guys can help... I needed one for my FZ and they did it from the number - also for my VW van. Really excellent service too https://www.replacementkeys.co.uk/

I think I have an old ignition I can 'play with' - will keep you post with any progress I make.

 

UPDATE..

So I managed to removed the lock barrels form an old ignition key and an old fuel cap I had - the 'secret' is releasing the barrel by depressing the 'holding' wafer which is usally accessible from the back of the lock or if you're persistant with a pick from the front, although in my experience so far the latter technique is hard because the holding wafer gets gummed up because it never nomally moves. An old thread here: https://xjbikes.com/forums/threads/gas-cap-ignition-barrel-removal.7388/
and a video here: helped.

BUT it seems that I do indeed have two key types .. type B left hand groove for fuel and seat, type A right hand groove (when looking from the key twist 'handle') for ignition - not sure yet if I can substitute a fuel tank barrel in the ignition, somehow I doubt it.

Are all ignition keys type A?