Im lost.

Howdy my fellow yammie wammie enjoyers, so if I just rebuild and had my carbs professionally cleaned (ran through an ultra sonic cleaning machine broke off the rack) would the fresh carbs not being synched and slightly out of tune cause it to try and run away on full choke but fall on its face with out the choke? I'm a lil lost and I'm about sick of the damn thing. Any help would be appreciated thanks homies

 

One simple answer: yup.
Go check out the info on the carbs by clicking on that XJ4Ever banner at the top right, guy knows what he's talking about on these. Every time I have an issue with my SECA750 that is the second place I look... factory service manual is the first.

 

Yes, just putting them through an ultrasonic cleaner will not do - you still need to check all the jets and passages, replace the throttle seals, set the float heights, set the bench synch. And do it all very very carefully, attention to every detail is paramount.

 

In addition to mixture settings and syncing, I've experienced runaway on initial startup by having the idle adjustment a little too open.

 

What I do know is doing the sync & balance takes several "passes" to really get things right on the money. It's also contingent on other things like throttle shaft seals, intake boot condition and temperature both ambient and engine. Trying to get things dialed in takes both time & effort and this has to start on a good foundation of Zestfully clean carburetors both inside and out. I've been up and down this road myself and while I get "faster" at it I have to remind myself to slow down and pay attention to the big picture. Haste makes waste and these carburetors have no tolerance for shortcuts.

 

Follow church of clean under ypper right corner xj4ever, after full tear down and new butterfly seals do a bench synch you should be very close doing a full synch with gauges and should be good .

 

If you didn't physically clean the small jet in the bottom of each float bowl, your carbs are not clean. That little jet is something else and take a bit of work to get clean. Depending how dry or full of stuff the carbs were when you got them, each bowl jet could be hard packed with junk.

 

"Carbs professionally cleaned" means NOTHING TO ME.
Who did it and what do they know SPECIFICALLY about the XJ carbs?
I did tons of reading here on specific pitfalls and gotchas on the carbs that I doubt most "professionals" who are paid a couple hundred $ will spend the time and effort to do that research to get it right.
What the "professional" did and did not do, you need to ask them.
If it runs away on the choke/fuel enrichener, you have a great start cause good chance he cleaned the fuel enrichment paths. but if he did not inspect them (all 4) then you don't know do you?
If not running with choke off here are some possibilities:

1) one cylinder not running (full choke and 3 can still run high RPM, most people can hear the missing cylinder, not everyone can)
2) Pilot path needs to be clear for Fuel Enrichement to work but some clogging can still affect idle
3) Carbs not bench synched
4) Carbs float wet level not right making fuel lean
5) Idle mixture screw not set right (default it to say 3 turns out from closed just to get started).
6) Idle screw (the big one in the back) not set high enough (turn it to get higher idle and when its running, turn it down once warmed up)

I have cleaned up 4 sets of carbs and got 2 of my bikes running and helped 2 others now in the past 18 months.
Clean carb, bench sync, idle mix screw set on the rich side, wet set float level gets the bike running and I can idle it to the point of going back to set idle mixture correct and sync w/ gauges.

Just that its running on choke, you are doing good, start with adjusting the idle speed screw (big one in the back). As you turn it, you will see the butter fly valve hardware moving in the same direction as when you pull the throttle.

 

Hi
Enjoyed your post here.
Just picked up a semi restored but sat Seca.
Carbs still on bike.
It is running in three ok.

was wondering would it make sense to drain each bowl to see how much comes out and compare number one with the other three?

Troubleshooting a cylinder one not getting hot (exhaust). Getting spark.

83 Seca stored dry prev owner.

Diaphragm and needle inspects good.

Pressure tested cylinders all around 100psi but first time using tester don’t know if I let it crank for long enough to max out.

The reason I ask is at least that would tell me if the float needle was working and set right on carb 1.

I know I am looking at removing the carbs but thought maybe that would give me clue what to zero in on when I have the carbs off.

I have previous experience on a V45 Magna which I found to be an extremely difficult process to remove the carbs.

This looks like there is a lot of room to work so,
Getting them out might not be too bad.

Anyhow
Nice to meet you.

 

If you drain each bowl, the first one you drain will also release any fuel in the tubes that connect the carbs together First bowl you drain will be drastically more fuel than the last one you drain. Or if your bike is not perfectly level, it can be the opposite, its not a way to do look at bowl height (wet level).

If you simply want to compare carbs to each other, just hook up clear hose to the drains, run the hose upwards, then look at how high it goes.
You need to look at the vertical height compared to the carb, not compared to the hose length.
If you draw a horizontal line to the center of the carb where the emulsion tube is, it will be the approximate height of the bowl level.

I had some issues early on with my revival where my needles were sticking and the filter screen inside the carb was picking up junk causing a very slow fill. I would ride then 10 miles or so, bike went lean then quit.
Sitting for 10-20 minutes, it would run again. Looking at the float level it was like half what you see in the pics and I could see it slowly filling up. Mind you, I wet set it when I got the bike running.
I later had a rock filter that clogged up after 300+ miles on the bike.

Again, this is NOT the way you set the float level, its a sanity check to make sure you don't have a gross issue on the floats. I think that might be what your looking for?

Pipe is not getting hot while running choke ? or when choke off and just idling? or in both situations? Tried changing /swapping plugs?

 

Hi
Thx for input Melnic

That makes total sense that the fuel line connects all four so your way better for checking levels.
In answer your question
With or without choke , not hot.
Getting spark and plugs are new.
What I just did now…
Took off carbs and cleared the lower float bowl passages in 1 and 2.
Jets were sketchy for cylinder 1
Just removing bowls for now and checking passages and jets for now.
just wanting to see if she will at least run on all 4 before going any further with her.
Fortunately, carbs real easy to remove.
Can I upload a video when I get her running ?

 

Any progress ?

 

BP, just make youtube video then link it. don't think you can have this site host the video.

 

Correct.