Spark plugs reading help

Today i rode the bike 20-30km and here’s how the spark plugs look like.From my understanding spark plug no.4 looks great but 1 and 3 look bad.Bike is running on pods and it has 4 in 1 exhaust.Any help how to make plugs 1,2 and 3 to look like plug no.4 would be much appreciated

 

The main problem is that the bike has pods. Makes it tough to tune. While 1, 2 and 3 look rich, with 1 and 3 being the richest, in my opinion 4 looks too lean. With pods you probably need a colortune plug to help get the carbs tuned. The following is what I did with my totally stock XJ700N. Used a colortune plug and closed the pilot screw until I saw flashes of white, indicating lean. Opened the pilot screw until the white disappeared. Repeated for all four carbs. Installed new plugs and took a 15 mile ride. Removed and read the plugs--looking for a light tan or gray on the porcelain. Opened the pilot screws about the width of a dime and road and read again. Conitnued this procedute until all plugs had a light tan color. (your's may be light gray.) All my pilot screws are open between 1 3/4 and 2 1/4. Remember, each carb serves its own cylinder and so the pilot screw setting can differ for each carb. If you don't have a colortune plug, then you can try setting all pilot screws at 1 1/2 and proceed from there. Just be sure not to ride too aggressively until you have the plugs tuned in. Good luch with those pods.

 

I adjusted the mixture at idle to be on the rich side using colortune. Idle mixture only really affects idle and the lower throttle positions till the additional holes are exposed in the pilot circuit as the butterfly opens.
Rich idle mixture will turn the plugs black though if your idling for an extended period of time. But if the mixture at 1/8th throttle and thru the rest is good, then it will clear up while your riding.
If I were OP, I'd be looking at the wet set level of the floats (carbs out, level and then clear hose hooked up to drains to look at the float level). wet set float heights are very important to mixture.
The other thing is you want to read the plugs w/o letting it idle long. So clean the plugs up, ride the bike and cut the engine as you coast to a stop when you get home to read the plugs.
If bike is running good on the pods and not hesitating, you are at a good starting point IMO though and just some tweeking may be in order.

 

If you are rich at idle you will be rich though out the throttle. The pilot system is the main source of fuel through first 1/4 turn of the throttle, after which the main jet becomes the main source. However, the pilot system does not change and the main jet is predicated on the consistant flow from the pilot system. Rich at idle will result in rich all the way.

 

As the idle mixture going into the pilot circuit adds fuel always, I can agree that it makes fuel mixture rich throughout 1/8 throttle, but as your into 1/4 throttle, the pilot jet IMO starts to dominate and the idle mixture does not have as much of an affect.
I found that in troubleshooting an XJ650 recently that was running lean , making the idle mixture well into the yellow band of the colortune did not help with my poor acceleration and misfiring at 1/4 throttle. I had to re jet up some to clear that.
Just cause Idle is rich, will not fix a Pilot Jet, Needle or Main jet that is lean. as you get away from idle, the other items dominate the mixture and ilde mixture becomes less significant.
If the Pilot jet, needle and main jet were "perfect", yes, idle mix will richen those up but again, IMO the further you go the less significant.

Some causes of plug imbalances between cylinders that have the SAME jets and needle can be:
Vacuum leaks on one or more carbs and not the others
Float levels not the same
compression not the same
Improper carb sync.

 

Thank you guys for replying!I appreciated it!
The pictures provided are with 45 -112 jets and 2 - 1/2turns on the mixture screws, with 42-112 jest the bike has rough start, accepts throttle very very slow and raises the throttle by it self to the point I have to use the kill button.On the other side, with 45-112 jets the bike starts almost instantly, it drives far far far more better that with 42-112, I can ride it as much as I want but stutters a bit on acceleration especially when its not warm enough and then it has a lot of power but it dies instantly when I try to use the choke

 

I do have colortune and cheap carb sync tool

 

My sync tool is made out of two glass baby bottles and work really well. Sounds like you are having some of the same problems with the pods that others have. it would be much better if you could find and install a stock filter system.

 

Adding back the original filter box is not an option since its chopped during the dismantling process so I guess ill have to live with the fact that this bike wont be working properly till its end of time.

 

Bummer!

 

I have mentioned it before but I have found that Uni Filter type pods worked really well on my XS650 (2 carbs).
They did need the pilot jet bumpped up and the needle was reduced (E clip moved up) and main jet increased but I bet just bumping the pilot and main might be pretty effective.
The Uni Pods have a pipe on the inside that acts like the carb input boots.
Uni Pods are not that expensive.

Getting Jetting corrected can be time consuming but after having some issues with an airbox on an 82 XJ that I sold, just some tweeking is sometimes all that is needed.