Tool for stanchion removal XJ650J

I'm rebuilding the front shocks on my XJ650 Maxim (XJ650J) and I'm to the part where I need to build the tool to remove the stanchion. I saw in another thread for a 750 that I'm looking for a bolt that has a head that fits into a 19mm socket. Can anyone confirm that this is the same on my 650?z

And while I'm here... I know that factory specs 20W oil for the shock but I've also read on here that 15W is sometimes recommended. Would this be true on my 650J as well? I'm asking because my shocks are air-adjustable and I didn't know if having the ability to firm them up would change this at all.

Much appreciated!
E

 

A 1/2" nut (3/4" wrench size) fits the 19 mm socket nicely. Get a piece of 1/2" threaded rod about 2 feet long and double nut it at both ends. The bolts at the bottom will have threadlocker, and you may find that they need some heat. An impact wrench can be a huge help here. Often you can remove the bolt with the impact without using the threaded rod, but will for sure need it to retorque at install.

I use 15W oil and it seems pretty widely recommended around here. Its pretty easy to change after the fact if you want to experiment, so don't sweat the decision.

 

Perfect. I appreciate the advice and confirmation

 

Another thing that will work is putting a spark plug socket upside down. These You will need several socket extensions too.

I prefer to clamp down the lower fork to a work surface, then use the impact wrench.

 

Here is a good picture showing the "upside down spark plug" method:
https://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/unsticking-stuck-damper-rod-bolts.132398/#post-682986

 

That's exactly what I did too, use the spark plug socket upside down with a bunch of extensions. I ran 15w oil in my 82 650J and felt it was a good choice for daily rider duties.

 

Clamping forks is always an awkward thing. On my last rebuild I stumbled on an idea, which I suppose isn't new but I'm a slow learner.

I had a broken upper triple tree clamp in my scrap pile. I put this in the vice and it was like a third set of hands to be able to clamp the stanchion without fear of damaging it. This makes it easy to use a regular bar clamp and socket to depress the fork spring for the upper circlip remove/install.

I see in Fuller's post that Dan linked, he has a custom clamp board which is a great idea also.

 

Can confirm. Junk triple trees can be valuable tools.

 

Thanks guys! I didn't have access to a vice or an impact wrench but I managed to get by with the threaded rod and a bit of creative problem solving. I actually bolted the fork into my workbench using some longer 10mm bolts into the holes where the front fender attaches. I was then able to use a large wrench and a large allen key to break the thing loose. Hopefully the second one is as cooperative as this one was

 

Another tip I learned from an old mechanic years ago, don’t replace both seals just because one is leaking. You might need to replace the same seal in a couple years.

However if you suspect both are very old then probably wise to do both

 

I finally got to re-assembling my first fork last night (it's been a busy week) and had to do a bit more creative problem solving in order to get the top plug and retaining clip back in place without a vise and without a second set of hands to help. I thought that the solution I came up with would give you guys a laugh and might even help someone in a similar situation down the road... Basically laying the whole thing down and clamping it to my workbench worked great for removal of the clip, but once I had it full of oil I realized this was no longer an option. Then I remembered Roast644's comment about using an old triple-tree in a vise and I thought "Why not just clamp the stanchion into the triple tree on the bike?" After doing this I used my custom threaded rod & nut tool to depress the top plug and clamped the rod to the handlebars to hold the whole thing in place. I then had two hands free to get the retaining clip in place which was super easy!

 

Nice!