1. Hello Guest. You have limited privileges and you can't "SEARCH" the forums. Please "Log In" or "Sign Up" for additional functionality. Click HERE to proceed.

Xj650 won’t stay started

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by Leo hansen, Oct 12, 2024 at 7:59 PM.

  1. Leo hansen

    Leo hansen New Member

    Messages:
    4
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    1
    Location:
    Springville, Utah
    So I bought this bike as a project to a daily but I was missing a bunch of stuff and this is my first bike so I’m learning as I go and so far I put on new brake pads, brake lines, brake master, caliper, fuel lines, petcock, carb boots, rebuilt the carb, put air intake boots, battery, did a oil change. So far that’s all did and barely just got it to start and idle for like 10 sec or less but only wants to start with the choke on and starting fluid and I put a lot of money and time into this and I need help
     
  2. Leo hansen

    Leo hansen New Member

    Messages:
    4
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    1
    Location:
    Springville, Utah
  3. Timbox

    Timbox Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,430
    Likes Received:
    811
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Location:
    Wisconsin, Tomah
    Welcome to the forum and what a great bike to start you new hobby with. Once you get her all cleaned up and running like she should, you will love it.

    In the top right corner of every page is the forum sponsor. If you click on that link, you will be able to read up on all the things you should be looking at and over on the bike.

    I hate to say this but carb cleaning for these bikes is not like other bikes. It takes attention to detail to get the little choke ckt jet in the float bowls clean. If the bike is only running for a short time, I would guess it would be a fuel issue. Either the petcock or the carbs still have issues. On my fist XJ I had to go over the carbs six times to get them right. I also have worked on bikes most of my adult life and I am 58. Look for the "Church of clean" on this forum, and you will see a step by step of what needs to be done.

    Any parts, if you want them to fit for sure the first time, go with the forum sponsor. Len is so helpful and will get you taken care of the first time.
     
  4. Leo hansen

    Leo hansen New Member

    Messages:
    4
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    1
    Location:
    Springville, Utah
    What do you mean check the pet cock like does fuel come out and yes it does and I hooked a sync gauges to it and when it ran for like 10 seconds and it was showing it was about 10 ish on the scale but somewhere I read that it supposed to about 25 for 2 and 23 to the other 2 and no matter what ho much I turn in or out the idle is the same and in the instructions on the synchronization kit it said in the red that it is the valve time or valve adjustment which the needle was idling at
     
  5. Timbox

    Timbox Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,430
    Likes Received:
    811
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Location:
    Wisconsin, Tomah
    Here are a few of those links.
    https://xjbikes.com/forums/threads/in-the-church-of-clean.14692/ This one is how to clean the carbs the right way....lol

    I think since you are new to this and really wanting to work on the bike, you will need to get a manual for the bike.

    Synching the carbs does have to do with what the gauges say, but more to do if they are all reading the same thing or not. There are small screws in between the carbs that will change the pitch of each butterfly, well three of the carbs change by a small screw and they all synch to the carb that is hooked to the idle screw.


    Start to do a lot of reading up on what you want to do before you do it. That way, you will be able to use your time to gain on the bike and not just get frustrated. As lots of questions on here and the good folks here will try to get you taken care of.
     
  6. Leo hansen

    Leo hansen New Member

    Messages:
    4
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    1
    Location:
    Springville, Utah
    well I got told different things on the butterflies even in here and got told they should be all even and I read up on the how to bench the butterfly’s and I did so there all even now and before I did things to the carbs the butterfly’s where not even they were all different and wonky and I asked people what there opinions on the problems and I got told they think it was a air leak and the other one is the valve timing because to them it sounds like it’s not idle right or firing in order and didn’t get told by the previous owner when the last time it was done so they think it needs to be checked
     
  7. Timbox

    Timbox Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,430
    Likes Received:
    811
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Location:
    Wisconsin, Tomah
    All could be right. Not knowing the history of the bike and how many hands have been in the cookie jar, we don't know what has been done to the bike. You will have to troubleshoot and give the board detailed descriptions of what is happening and what steps you are taking. That is why posting all the steps you are taking and making with the bike here on your thread is important. A good diary of events for your bike.

    Getting a manual for the bike and reading up on annual maintenance of the bike should be high on your list. If the bike's shims have never been done on the vales, that should be checked, carbs cleaned sure, air leaks, yes check for them. Timing, I guess, if all other things have been checked. I have only had one bike out of timing for all the ones I have done. But yes, to have a good look at all things if the bike is not running as you think is should.

    All the advice is free here and should be filtered as you think you need it. Once you get a good working knowledge of how your bike works, tools needed and different skills you will be learning to work on it, your confidence will go up. Please don't start to buy parts and just throw money at it. Troubleshoot as close to the cause as you can, it will save you money and time in the long run.

    A bench synch is a must, and yes, the flies should all start out being the same. This will make it much faster once you vacuum synch. That is why I sent you the link to the "Church of clean" so you could read through that thread and know what needs to be done before you put the carbs back on the bike. Keep at it, you will be happy with the results.
     
  8. ScottFree

    ScottFree Member

    Messages:
    75
    Likes Received:
    97
    Trophy Points:
    18
    Location:
    Northern Ill-Annoy
    The "starts and runs for ten seconds" thing sounds like a problem I had when waking up my XJ650 after a 20-year nap (with fuel in the carbs, of course). I had done lots of cleaning and rebuilding (new jets, needles, float valves, gaskets), but still... it started on choke, ran for ten seconds or so, then sputtered out and died. After this it wouldn't start at all for about ten minutes or so, then I could repeat the "starts easily and runs for ten seconds" thing.

    Then somebody on this forum asked about the starting jets, which I thought I had cleaned. I was wrong; the actual starting jet is buried in the bottom of the float bowl, with a plug pressed in over it, and the only access to it is via the passages in the bowl. Attempting to clean with spray cleaner was pointless as the stuff just hit the clogged jet and sprayed back. Heat didn't help. I finally found some 0.38mm stainless needles on Amazon, intended for cleaning 3D printer nozzles (also "Amazon's Choice for Acupuncture Needles," which I found amusing). Perfect for cleaning the 0.40mm jets without worrying about enlarging them. With more solvent, light taps on the end of the needle, twisting and a lot of patience, I got the jets opened up, and once I did that the usual trick of pushing spray-can solvent through them finished the job. Reassembled the rack and... started right up, ran and kept running until warmed up enough to run without the enrichener.

    What appeared to be happening is some amount of gas was somehow leaking around the clogged jets into the starting circuit, enough to start the motor and run it for a few seconds, but not enough to get it through warming up. So the bike would start and die. Ten minutes or so later, enough fuel had leaked through the jet to allow the process to be repeated.
     

Share This Page