What did you do to your Yamaha today?

Are you thinking about using the O2 sensor for just tweaking the idle mixture? Or are you thinking you will do some rejetting? Just curious.

Each individual header pipe has a test port of some sort - any way to use those so you can measure each cylinder individually??

Edit - I see you have an aftermarket header, so nevermind the question about the test ports on the stock header pipes. Although it did get me thinking about maybe taking some crusty old header pipes and having O2 sensor bungs installed on them.

 

Just want to dial-in the mixture as a whole using a wideband and to get a feel for what's going on during the 6k bog. Don't need exact numbers just a snapshot.

 

It's what I'm doing on my GS850
One bung just after the collector, Scorpion gauge and wideband Bosch sensor.
But... I'm only using a single carb. Doing it with multis is more problematical.

 

That's okay Ive been called problematical all my life.

 

Spent a couple of hours tig welding the corroded away threaded corners by the camchain tunnel on a set of xj900 jugs. Took a bit of sussing out and preheating. Now in the process of machining the blobs away to original shape. Before drilling and tapping.
Will it be worth the bother? It's likely to be 6 hours of workshop time, so not likely with the low cost of good replacements, but good to know it's doable.
Big thanks to @Franz for supplying them, the 900 engine I have is an unknown, so who knows if I will use these (they look to have very little wear).

 

The engine had 34,000 miles on it when I got the bike.

 

Got a pic here..

 

Looking a lot better already.

 

No riding in the Midwest till the roads are cleaner. Unless the bike has on/off tires. I am also on the upper end of the age scale, so if I went down, it takes longer to heal. You enjoy that ride, it sure is tempting.

 

If our brief warmup passes 35F I'm putting some highway miles on. Also found two cheap-azz GoPro HERO-2 cams for the bike, one front and the other back to catch the whoever rear ends me while playing on their phone... too much stupid behind those smartphones.

 

And it got above 35F so I got the speedo above 70... bike fired right off like I just parked the night before. No fussin' with the carbs or battery as it was on a small milliamp charger. Roads are a little wet and salty but I stayed on the main highways only goosing it to the century mark on a dry stretch. Yeah it was a good day on the SECA

 

Brrrr.

 

Yeah a little chilly. I have insulated work pants which gave me a good barrier and a winter jacket over the leather as a windbreaker the only thing really cold was my big ol' nose. Not sure the engine cares for the cold blast on the front but it ran well. Might get out tomorrow before we head into the deep freeze... -9F for a forecast high.

 

You have to get out there sometimes, just for mental health sake. I get it, that and seeing all the hard work paying off.

 

Bonus points for going out next Monday in the sub-zero climate!!

 

I will come down and do a burnout in your driveway!

Seriously I'm not going out in that below zero if I don't have to but do have a question for the experienced; looking at changing over to a drag style handlebar and I want to go with a top mount master, what's the consensus on this? I've been looking thru the Brakes Section-J of the tech page and I really don't see anything yay or nay other than the 750 SECA uses the cable op master and that the larger bore cylinders will be faster acting. Okay so the 650 Maxim is a single caliper and I'm assuming would take lots of lever to move enough fluid, same with the 550 SECA so would say a 750 Maxim or 650 SECA have enough to work the brakes with the anti-dive and are these a 7/8" bar? What other models would be compatible with this switch? My big reason for this is I don't particularly like the cable-op master to begin with or the farm implement style 750 SECA bars but I want to check with the experienced before committing.
Thanks in advance.

 

Update. I won't skim it now, it can wait until the machine is set up.
Damn, why file too large?

 

Strange your picture posted the last time.

 

Emgo make 7/8 bars in any shape
Make sure they have at least several inches of rise to avoid clearance between the choke lever and the tank.
650 Seca master should work well then order custom SS lines

 

Thanks Simmy The bars I'm looking at are take-off Drag Specialties from a 650 Maxim but as you pointed out the riser clearance this is something I don't have. For $10.00 I'm going to take a chance and if they bump then I have my answer and a spare set of bars to pass along to someone who could use them.

 

Since the server migration, I haven’t been able to post full-size iPhone pictures in messages. If you’re posting from the phone that took the pictures, there’s a way to select “Medium” quality instead of “full” quality when you upload. That worked for me.

For example, here’s a carb I was in the process of taking apart yesterday, so I could replace the body with one I bought from Len.

 

Gave the drag style bars a try on my SECA this afternoon... a no-go using the stock headstock mounts. Basically I pulled my OE bars out of the clamps and pushed them out of the way and dropped the drag bars in place, not enough side clearance on full turns for my hands to the tank and as Simmy pointed out the choke would hit the tank as well.

So for now it's the stock ugly bars and their mounting tabs for the plastics that broke off last summer. Might just cut & grind them off and re-spray the bars this summer.

 

I finally finished my laundry list of winter maintenance items on my 650 Maxim. Over the past month and a half, I have:

• Rebuilt caliper
• Rebuilt master cylinder
• Replaced brake hoses with stainless braided lines
• Replaced front brake pads
• Checked valve clearances, replaced 5 shims
• Replaced ancient valve cover gasket
• Replaced carb #2 body due to cracked float post
• Set carb fuel levels, tuned, and synched
• …oh, and apparently put the freaking horn on correctly, since the previous owner had it in the wrong place. Never noticed until I took the valve cover off.

Last thing I’d like to do before next season is get new tires. Mine seem to be in great condition, but they’re from 2011. Their age does not inspire confidence.

 

Don't forget the rear brake shoes they delaminate and you don't want your back wheel locking up at speed.

 

Indeed, that was already done before the end of the riding season. My shoes didn’t show any signs of delamination, but they were soooooo crusty. Even though I was told to expect worse braking performance before the new shoes are broken in, the rear brake’s effectiveness improved immediately. Was definitely a good call.

 

Bad brakes are not worth the savings.

 

Try these:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TWF8TYF?ref=fed_asin_title&th=1

 

For anyone curious about what happens when you install the horn backwards, check out this groove it wore into the valve cover.



The locator tab on the little mounting bracket technically still lines up when the horn is mounted backwards. But still, I don’t know how you could install it with the noisemaker pointed towards the rider and not think something is up.

 

It only proves ya can't fix stupid.

 

Just when you think that you've seen it all...............