Shim Tool For 82 XJ750

For a Yamaha 82 XJ750J, Motion Pro list a number #08-0020 as the proper Shim Tool for that bike.

With the cam lobe holding down the valve and the shim tool in place while securing it with the Allen screw provide, the shim tool does not keep the bucket down when you release the cam back up. Has anybody else had this problem?

Could it be that the tip or tab on the one end of the tool is to short and not long enough to fully hold down the shim bucket? Or could they have a mis-alignment in the curve of their tool?

It's hard to see where the tip is really touching, but with it lined up perfectly under the cam and no binds of any kind, while the other end of the tool is lying flush on the engine mating surface secured with the Allen screw.

It would be a little hard to make the tip/tab end of the tool longer, but I thought maybe I could get the same results if I file/grind some off of the under side of the other end that screws to the engine, thus allowing the tip/tab end to go down further on the bucket.

Has anyone experienced the same problem with this particular motion pro tool, and what was the best remedy. I contacted the company but they haven't gotten back to me yet.

Thanks for any replies!

P.S. Maybe a silly question, but I was keeping the slot in the bucket on the opposite side of the tool, thinking that was for helping to later get the shim out. Although one person suggested that the slot in the bucket was for the tip/tab of the shim tool to line up on and fit into???

 

The slot in the bucket is for prying the shim out. That's not where the tool goes.

 

I have the same tool, and no, it doesn't work -- I don't think it extends down far enough. There was another one that was supposed to work, but I don't know the number off the top of my head. I couldn't find that one at the local Cycle Gear store, so I grabbed this instead.

I just ended up using the folded zip tie under the valve.

 

When you find the correct one for the 750 Seca engine, I'd like to see it if you can post a photo of it here. I may make my own or atleast buy the correct one so I have it next time. Thanks! PD

 

I second the folded zip tie under the valve trick. works much better. The only thing is... don't use old zip ties cause they might crack and then you'll have to fish the pieces out of the cylinder.

 

I bought one from Chacal for my 650 maxim, It worked like a charm. If thats any help to you

 

ATTENTION, ATTENTION, NOW HEAR THIS!: Read the quote from PainterD above, that's what you need to know.

The same shim tool is used on all XJ550, 650, 700 non-X, 750, 900, and 1100 engines.....Yamaha original part number #90890-01245-00. If the tool doesn't "fit", it's might be due to an attempt to use it an incorrect manner.

I suppose that it is possible that at one time, a batch of these tools were produced incorrectly where the end "tip"" was not long enough to reach down to the bucket edge (which is what the tip contacts), but other than such defective ones, this tool should (and does) work on all XJ engines.

bb) Valve Shim Tool, correct reproduction of the original bucket retainer tool #90890-01245-00, required when changing valve shims. For all Yamaha XJ models EXCEPT XJ700-X models.

HCP247 Valve Shim Tool
$ 15.00

 

quote="schmuckaholic"]I have the same tool, and no, it doesn't work -- I don't think it extends down far enough.
I just ended up using the folded zip tie under the valve.[/quote]

Thanks for the reply and sorry that you found out yours didn't work either. Just like you agreed, the end tab must be to short. Because I'm sure we both would know how to use one if they made the tool correctly. I'm happy to know some understood my post and responded respectfully.
After you answered there seemed to be some shouting going on, that I began to think I posted in a foreign language that wasn't understood.

About those plastic ties your recommended. What width do you recommend and what thickness, or folded ?And do you try to wrap around the valve head to get even pressure between the valve head and seat so it won't jam the valve stem in the guide, or isn't that to important? Or just so you get a little under the valve, even as little as the width of the ties?

Looking forward to your reply.
Thanks to all that answer.

 

Star (and others): didn't mean to come across as shouting! I just thought that PD's answer needed attention drawn to it, and tried to do it in a humorous way, which I guess it didn't come across like that.


The '82-up 650 Maxim shares the exact same cylinder head, cam bearing caps, lifter buckets, valves, valves springs, keepers, spring seats, valve shims, etc. as the 750 Maxim and Seca models. Yamaha specifies the same tool part number for all XJ engines. That's why I say there must have been either a bad batch of tools made at one time, by some vendor, or a mis-use of the tool by some users.

You have to rotate the cam lobe completely down onto the shim, fully depressing the shim/bucket, then install the tool and tighten it down, and then rotate the cam away from the tool, releasing the valve. As the valve bucket comes up, the tip of the tool will stop the bucket---it just catches on the edge of the bucket (and not in the slot). The slotted holes in the surface of the tool allows some amount of lateral positon adjustment of the tool in order to make sure that it lines up exactly with the outermost edge of the bucket.....only the outermost edge of the bucket will be "close" enough to the tip of the tool to be caught by it. If the tool tip is not lined up along the widest axis of the shim/bucket, it is likely that the tip of the tool will slip off, or not contact the bucket.

As Ace and others can attest to, the tool does work. The heads and all component parts are the exact same parts between the various models---it's the jugs and camshafts that differentiate the 650 and 750 top ends (non-YICS 650 engines do use different heads from the 750's, but it's only the lack of the YICS passage that differentiates those, and they too utilize the same tool for valve shim removal).

All that being said, yes, the zip-ties method will work, but is a bit more of a pain in the butt to accomplish. On the other hand, it's a bit less expensive of a method. But given how often you'll use the tool, over the long run it's a fairly inexpensive investment for a critical maintenance task.

Again, apologies if my previous response came across as harsh or offensive, my bad.

 

If you have the XJCDs, it has some pictures that demonstrate the procedure. If you don't have the cds, I suggest you get them.

Chacal: nobody's saying your tool won't work. What we are saying is that the 08-0020 part from MotionPro is a big, steaming pile of FAIL. Again, they had a different part number that I had wanted to get, but wasn't in stock at Cycle Gear. However, according to their description, it should work. It doesn't -- you bolt the thing down flat to the edge of the head, it won't reach down far enough. Want me to send you mine so you can see for yourself?

 

Here's a link to pictures of my home made shim tool, made it from a piece of angle iron. I made mine without the "tip", instead the whole edge of the tool sits on the shim bucket butting up to the edge of the shim.

http://www.xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=1232.html

 

I'm looking to check and adjust my valve clearances on my '81 XJ750. This is an interesting discussion, but it seems there is no consensus about whether the adjusting tool works or not. My search for the tool online have not been very fruitful- only see the part #08-0020 for sale and it sounds like that does not work. has anyone ever had luck with that part, and if your tool worked, where can I buy that part?

 

The Shim Tool used on many Yamaha Heads to hold-down the Bucket for Shim removal and replacement >> DOES NOT << work on the 750 Head.

The Head is Higher at the Mating Surface and the Tool WILL NOT hold down the Bucket far enough to allow you to remove the Shim.

You need the Yamaha Special Tool number thats in the Factory Manual.

Altering the Regular tool by grinding-away material to gain some additional space will weaken the tool and make it vulnerable to fracturing!

 

The special tool that is in the Factory Yamaha Parts Manual----both in an original May, 1982 printing (LIT-11616-XJ-71) and the original XJ750 Supplementary Service Manual (LIT-11616-02-84, part 15R-28197-10) and the current reprint Factory Service Manual all specify the same tool number #90890-01245-00.

I just went and measured the distance from the machined gasket mating surface to the shim bucket outer lip on both a 1982 XJ750 Seca head (casting 5G200 Y-3 4Z77 casting numbers) and a 1982 XJ650 Seca head. I used the digital caliper "depth probe" tip and touched the edge of the probe tip onto the outer edge of an uncompressed shim bucket, and then adjusted the depth of the probe by bringing the end of the caliper body to rest on the machined mating surface.....this is about the only way to get a "direct line" measurement that mimics what the shim tool would experience.

The measuresments were the same, to within .20mm. The 650 Seca head had the remnants of an old valvecover gasket on it, although I scraped it away as best I could with a straight razor blade.

I also took a "straightline measurement" of both the valve shim tool (the distance to the very end of the tip to the flat mounting surface of the tool, made by holding the valve shim tool mounting surface flat against a tabletop, and measuring straight up to the end of the tip). I compared this to a straightline measurement from an installed valve shim bucket, from the outer edge of the shim bucket straight up to the bottom of a straight edge put across the cylinder head gasket mating surfaces, and a 750 head that I removed the camshaft from. The difference was approx. 3mm greater.....meaning the tool was approx. 3mm "deeper" or "longer" than the same measurement on the cylinder head. This is to be expected, since the tool tip must be able to keep the shim bucket depressed into the head by a certain amount. 3mm is more than enough to get a valve shim out.

Again, the factory manuals all specify the same shim tool for ALL xj engines (as well as the XS750/850/1100 engines). The cylinder HEAD, valves, valve guides, shim buckets, keepers, bearing caps, etc. (in other words, the entire valve train except for the camshafts) are all the EXACT same parts between 82-up 650 engines and all 750 engines.

Again, I'm not questioning anyone's abilities, or experience, but it may be that a bad batch of tools was made at one time, or perhaps a mis-machined batch of cylinder heads was made by Yamaha at one time (having a slightly taller machined gasket mounting surface on a head would not affect anything; have a lower machined surface might cause some real problems).

Look, I'm not here to defend Motion Pro.....sometimes they are a frustrating company to work with on a responsiveness issue, but all of their products that I carry and have had experience with are truly top-notch.

If anyone has an ORIGINAL Yamaha tool it would be interesting to compare the two. If anyone has one, or has access to one (none of the dealers in my area have one), then if they would take the "straightline measurement" of the tool for me I'll be glad to compare numbers with you and see where we are.

I think it would be in everyone's best interested to solve this problem and be able to provide proper products for use by all XJ owners!

 

Nick, since you made a shim tool that works on a 750 head, can you tell us what that "straightline" measurement is on the one you made.? This would be the measurement from the underside of the tool mounting surface "straight up" to the end of the tip. Thanks!

 

Well ... The "Store Bought" tool didn't cut it!
I tried every which way.
So, either the Tool's bad or 750's need a different tool.

I know the Tool I have works fine on a 900.

That should narrow down the search for the truth.

 

Well I went to my Local dealer, I know the service manager there, and borrowed the shim tool from him and he had the shim pads so it all worked out for me.
I did have to buy them but over all it was a good deal considering my options.
1. Wait to receive in the mail
2. Do it right now
This time it was better to go the dealer route.

I only had to adjust 1 intake and 1 exhaust but they were both really loose.
Anyway his tool was a Motion Pro tool but i didn't make out the numbers on it though. nice little duhhickey.
And just for good measure I had a large zip tie so I also tried it that way also. Worked just as well as the tool.

Woo Hooo! valves in spec across the board

 

Just purchased the Motion Pro Valve Shim tool, 08-0020. While I was waiting for it to come, I read this thread but thought, for 10 bucks, I'll try it.

It worked PERFECTLY. The best 10 dollar tool I have ever owned, lol.

I used it on a 1982 XJ750J.

 

I use the same Motion Pro 08-0020 and I can testify that it works 100% of the time on my '82 SECA 750.
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I have the MP tool as well and it works 100% of the time on my 750 too.

This issue/topic is one that has been discussed many times over - and at the end of the discussion after some people say "it works perfect" some say "it never worked" and then those saying "its junk and a waste of money just use a zip-tie or wire"

what its finally come down to in my mind is that the Motion pro tool must not be held to the tightest of tolerances nor is tested prior to package and sale.

Some work, some dont - and you either have to keep trying ones till you find one that works, or just use a zip tie/wire.

Personally i'm not a huge fan of jamming things into the valve seat and disrupting the surfaces or breaking off carbon deposits.

But it our choice.

I'll try finding the other threads.

 

One thing i HAVE been curious about however, is that in the factory book, it says to used a magnetic shim plucker to retrieve the shims, where as we here(myself included) preach to be sure and use a non magnetic screwdriver to pry/pluck the shims in worry of magnetizing the shim/cam and attracting metal shavings.

 

Given that this thread is really-really old, I think that it's more likely Motion Pro revised the tool after finding that it didn't work on every bike that they meant it to work on. As for magnetizing the shims or cam; it takes quite a bit of effort to magnetize steel (I spent an hour last week re-magnitizing the bar magnets for my classroom). Unless you're using a rare-earth magnet, or rubbing the magnet on the shim repeatedly, there's not much to worry about. If you do find that you have slightly magnetized a shim it's easy to demagnetize it by dropping it onto your workbench. Having said that: in practice you'll probably find that a magnetic shim removal tool won't be able to grab a shim out if the bucket as they tend to be a slight press fit.

 

See:

http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=3 ... art=0.html

http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/p=320675.html

 

Jesus. holy grave digging is right. diddnt even realize that.

But i doubt that mp re-did the tooling, as its still an issue that pops up from time to time.

 

Yeah, I didn't realize it was so old (didn't occur to me to look), but this thread is one of the first in Google results when you search about XJ750 valve shims.

I noticed on the first valve it didn't work, it was because I hadn't rotated the slot around to the front so I could pry and the tip of the tool landed right in it, therefore not pressing it down far enough. Once I corrected that, tool worked great.

Btw, only 2 valves were out of spec