Replacement Keys

So, here's what happened:

The wife was out with her sisters and the kiddies while i stayed home to "work on the yard" (read: cut the grass as fast a humanly possible and work on my bike) I'd been having trouble getting the battery to keep a charge (the handy voltmeter on my 550 always read around 14v while the bike was running, but the battery seemed weaker every day, even with a tender) As the last step in my "yard work" I decided to gas up the bike perform an extended test of the charging system... basically, i just rode around for a half an hour. When I got home, i realized i was running late to meet the wife and in my rush to get the house closed up, I lost the one key i got with my (pre-owned) bike... d'oh!

So, here is the question:

:?: How long should it take to get replacement keys?

I managed to get the seat off (remove hinge pins, carefully remove bolts holding seat latch to seat, bandage knuckles) and get the seat lock off, so i could take it to a locksmith, but before i got that done, Some Guy a friend of mine suggested that i could just order one through a dealer. I dug the ignition out of the bike and managed to decipher the lock number. I ordered two keys...in November...and I still don' t have them. All this brings me to the second question:

:?: Has anyone had any luck taking the seat lock in to a locksmith and getting a new key cut?

Thanks!
Charles

1981 Yamaha XJ550 Seca

 

Actually, if you have that key number from the bottom of your ignition switch, then you've got it made, because that's the "key code" that a real locksmith (not a Home-depot lock cutter) can use to look up (in a depth chart translation book) what the key cuts should be.....all they'll need is a blank Yamaha key, which are somewhat unique, but a lot of real locksmith shops carry an aftermarket, generic version of the Yamaha key blanks. You'll have to call around to some locksmith shops in your area and ask them if they can cut a key from your key code....not all locksmith shops have the translation books for older vehicles. Keep calling, in a big city like Milwaukee you'll find someone who does. They may ask you to bring in a copy of a title etc. to cut a key from a code for you.

I carry the correct key blanks, in stock, but I don't cut keys to key codes for people, sorry!:

http://www.xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic ... t=135.html

s) Yamaha Key Blanks.....see the long note at the end of this post for additional detail.

These are the correct blank style keys with the small head, as original. They come either with or without a black plastic head cap. The black plastic head cap is very similar in shape and apperance to an original Yamaha key from this era, except it does not have the word "YAMAHA" cast into it, and it is slight more trapezoidal (as opposed to being a true rectange, as were the originals)---very similar to late model R1/R6 keys in shape. Our metal-headed keys have a small rectangular metal head, and are approximately the same size and shape as original plastic-capped keys.

ILCO brand keys that most lock shops have available for older Yamaha locks (the "X11x" and "YHxx" code keys) will work just fine, but have a huge, ugly metal head.

Keys have to be ordered according to their Key Blank Style (A-F); please read the long write-up below to determine which style key your bike uses.....

HCP188 "A" style blank with black plastic cap $ 8.00

HCP194 "A" style blank with metal head; no cap $ 5.00

HCP189 "B" style blank with black plastic cap $ 8.00

HCP195 "B" style blank with metal head; no cap $ 5.00

HCP190 "C" style blank with black plastic cap $ 8.00

HCP196 "C" style blank with metal head; no cap $ 5.00

HCP191 "D" style blank with black plastic cap $ 8.00

HCP197 "D" style blank with metal head; no cap $ 5.00

HCP192 "E" style blank with black plastic cap $ 8.00

HCP198 "E" style blank with metal head; no cap $ 5.00

HCP193 "F" style blank with black plastic cap $ 8.00

HCP199 "F" style blank with metal head; no cap $ 5.00



NOTE ON KEY BLANK STYLES: Yamaha used 6 different key blanks, designated as A, B, C, D, E, or F, and you can re-key an individual lock only to another pattern within the same key blank style.

You can determine what key blank style you have by removing your ignition switch....and the entire key code is either stamped into the bottom of the switch housing, or is printed or etched onto a paper or aluminum tag that is glued to the bottom of the ignition lock. The key number always starts with one of the letters A-F, followed by 5 or 6 numbers. The 5 or 6 numbers are actually the "serial number" of the individual lock, and from this number any locksmith should be able to cut the proper key (without even having the lock in front of him) if he has the proper A-F key blank available.

Of course, if you have the original key to your bike, then the entire key code (letter and 5 numbers) is stamped onto the key head, right below the black plastic cap.

The lock mechanism can always be removed from an individual component (ignition switch, gas cap, seat/helmet lock, or powerlock unit) and swapped out from another similar unit. In example, if your bike originally uses locks that accept a "D" style key blank, then you can substitute another "D" style lock mechanism from a donor bike and then have that donor lock re-keyed to match all of your other original locks on your bike. However, if your bike originally uses locks with a "C" style key blank, and you buy a gas cap with a lock and that gas cap lock uses a "F" style key, you cannot have that "F" style lock mechanism re-keyed to accept the "C" style key.

Hope that isn't too much info.....but when buying replacement parts that incorporate a lock mechanism, it's useful to keep the above in mind in case you want to have all your locks keyed the same.

Finally, except for the ignition switch, the key blank style (A-F) is NOT stamped or engraved on any other lock mechanism. The only way to determine which key style (for example) another gas cap lock uses is to try a key into it (even a blank, un-cut key); an "A" style key won't fit into a B-F style lock, etc. (I have found that "C" and "E" blanks will sometimes interchange though......). If you're buying a used ignition switch, with or without the key, you'll have a good chance of knowing which key style it uses as there is a key code printed or engraved on the bottom of the switch housing (assuming the printed or engraved label has not gone bye-bye after all these years); all other locks (gas, helmet/seat, and powerlock) you must either have the original key or know the ignition switch key number off of the bike that component came off of!

 

That reminds me, I need to order a blank soon, I only have the 1 key...
I need to do up a list of stuff I need and, maybe grab a few more things I need (like carb screws )

 

Chacal is right, any good locksmith can make a key with just the lock number.
I tried the dealer once but didn't have any luck. They told me that couldn't be the right number but the bike is older than any of the high school drop outs working there so go to a locksmith. If they don't have a Yamaha key then a Toyota truck key will work.

 

So, can anyone recommend a good locksmith in the metropolitan Milwaukee area? If not, I guess i start calling through the yellow pages.

Also, thanks for all of the excellent info!

 

UPDATE:

So, after waiting months for the guys at Port Yamaha (link omitted) to not get my shiny new key from the manufacturer, I started calling around to other dealerships.

The first place i got through to was Glen Curtiss Motorsports (http://www.gcmsports.com) who directed me to Todd at S&J Locksmith (http://tinyurl.com/28tmpy) in Slinger (15 minutes from Milwaukee).

After talking ot Todd for a few minutes on the phone, I made arrangements for me to drop the ignition and seat lock off in his drop box. About an hour after dropping off the stuff my phone rings. I see that it's Todd and assume he's calling to let me know he got my locks. It turns out he's calling to let me know that he got my stuff, did his thing, and that I have 2 new keys ready for pick up.

Port Yamaha: 4 months and no love
Todd at S&J: 1 hr and 2 new keys

I am a very happy camper!

 

Hey, not sure if this helps but I found a Yamaha key blank that I think would work for your bike on ebay.

Heres a link: Yamaha Key Blank (hope it helps)

Its only selling for a few bucks.

 

Thanks, but that looks like it's for a '93 or newer.

Luckily the locksmith i went to actually had the blanks, though they do not have that nice plastic bit on top.

 

Just out of curiosity, what did your locksmith charge? My local locksmith wanted $75. I ordered online through Key-men instead, for $15.

 

2 new keys: $25 (and only took about an hour)

 

That's reasonable. If that had been the price my local locksmith asked, I would have done it.

 

Was that just for the blanks, or did that include cutting a new original as well?

 

I took my gas cap to a local locksmith, total charge to have 1 key cut was 21.35 and it took about 35 minutes.

I was impressed (but now I have two stupid keys). Oh well

 

How the heck did you get the gas cap off without having a key? This was the one lock I couldn't get at without a key.

 

Wow, yea I guess that requires some explaining.

I guess I got lucky because I bought it like that! The guy I bought it from had the tank off to paint and then a bunch of crap happened to him and he had to sell the bike but lost the key in the process, hence my needing a new key. Due to poor planning on my part (and a popped steering lock anyhow) I ended up also replacing the ignition/steering lock... so... two keys. 8)

 

I need to get the ignition switch off my 2006 Virago for the same sorry reason that I lost my only key. Does anyone know the specs for the torx wrench to get at that ignition? Or where to buy one?