Stuck caliper retaining pin

I'm stripping the front caliper down to fix a leaky piston. I'll be ordering a rebuild kit that includes the piston from Len, but first, I'm trying to get this pin out, so I can do a proper epoxy coat on this.
The pin is free in the caliper, but not the caliper mounting bracket. I guess I'll try heat next? Any thoughts? I know it's a steel pin in aluminum, so there's likely galvanic corrosion binding things up.

 

ACF-50 might work.

 

Has the retaining pin been removed? If it has, then penetrating oil, a little heat won't hurt, and a bigger hammer/punch. Replacement pins are available.

 

^^ This ^^
The most effective penetrating oil also happens to be the least expensive. Mix Automatic Transmission Fluid with Acetone (or Diesel) 1:1 (half of each for the amount you need).

 

Well, a couple out of town trips and some cancer treatments later, I tried again. I got the mounting bracket in a vice and tapped on the pin and got it moving. Then, I was able to extract it.
I'll repaint the caliper w/ some black epoxy paint, but the bore is a little crusty. I think that one area can be cleaned up with some fine sand paper (really fine, so I don't create scratches). Any other thoughts on that? I have a pick I can use to clean out the grooves for the seals. Time to drop Len a note!

 

The bore itself can just be sanded or honed to get rid of any gunk. The piston has a bit of clearance against the bore, so it's not super-super critical.

The seal lands....where the whitish gun has accumulated, needs to be super clean and scratch-free......we have properly-sized brass radial bristle-wire brushes available that fit the 2 (different-sized) grooves correctly and allows you to clean the lands fully w/o injuring the metal.

 

Looking pretty exceptional! I'll let the paint cure till tomorrow, then throw all the new parts at it.

 

For future reference; Sand paper is for wood. Finishing paper (wet and dry) is for paint and metal. Crocus is for final polishing on tolerance-critical parts (cam and crank journals).
The largest grit for cleaning up any piston and bore is 600, followed with increasing numbers by 200 grit at a time (at least). The trick is understanding that the smaller the number, the more material is removed on each pass, and that it's possible to remove too much material. Thankfully the O-rings on brake cylinders allow for quite a bit of material to be removed before a liner is required.
TLDR; Be careful.

 

K, I'm sure you're technically correct and I didn't end up using anything more than a brass brush on the inner bore.
But, I'm just reading the package when I refer to it as "sandpaper".

 

I noticed a little grit in the threads for the bleeder and main brake line attachment. I thought I'd chase that out with some brake cleaner, but that was a mistake! It immediately started melting the fresh paint! It had about 20 hours to cure... probably not enough and maybe I should have baked it. I'm bummed and will probably let that set for a bit and then hit the affected areas with scotchbrite and re-coat. (and then not be in a rush to rebuild).

 

Well, once that is done, you should be able to come out for the next Carb Clinic!!

 

Don't use that rubbish on anything other than a puncture repair....