OK we have a problem...

so after getting freshly cleaned carbs back on the bike along with a new glass inline fuel filter and see through gas line she still wont idle without choke. The throttle response is wierd too. If I give her gas it bogs down almost stalls out then picks up like a bat out of hell about 1/2 a second later. Pulled the plugs and checked them. White tips... more white on the inside cyclinders. Im lost and im in need of some help...

 

check for vacum leaks, sync carbs, colortune(adjust Idle Mixture)

Need to also check the float levels.

 

First the plugs sound lean.

Did you bench sync before installing?
What did you use? Bread tie, business card, similar?
Second, did you sync the carbs? While blocking the YICS passage? Dont know your year, model, and engine size either...
Third, did you use a Colortune plug to adjust the idle mixture?
Did you repeat steps 2 & 3?

This is the process to get the carbs back in action...


What are your answers?


*EDIT* Forgot to check if you got the float levels set correctly before all those other steps.

 

used a match to bench sync

cant afford colortune (i want one)

I havnt tried to adjust air fuel mixture yet
I wanted to get some opinons before moving ahead


and ive added my bike to my signature line

I forgot to add that in my first atempt to start the bike the plugs were too wet and i had to take them off and blow them out before she would even start for me... so its wierd it went from too rich to too lean just like that...


and i hadnt adjusted anything i thought it might be running wierd because I was running it choked the whole time it ran. But it seemed to me that the bogging down before reving up might be a tell tale sign for somthing...

 

Have you confirmed that the choke and throttle cables are connected correctly after re-install? Seems to be a common problem to have them swapped.

 

If it runs well after it warms up you might have a starter jet cleanliness issue.
Once you can get her to idle a carb rack sync is next order.
Try and run it without choke after the warm up.

 

Yes they are hooked up correctly. I even double checked it...

 

I ran it for about 20 minutes and tried to release the choke and she bogged and farted and just shut off... then started right back up with choke...

 

Sounds like you might be too Lean.

Ball Park the Mixture Screws at just shy of 3 Turns out and try that!

 

Sounds too lean to me.

 

Ok i'll try to turn them out tomorrow not really ure where the mixture screws are on this bike though... its a new bike to me

had the carbs off before but didnt really look will i be able to do it on the bike? or will i have to take them off?

 

All you should have to take off is the tank. They're located next to the starter plungers. Observe:

 

thanks for the pic im sure it'll be easy now.

 

Don't try to move one of those screw until AFTER you have fabricated a Tuning Screwdriver that FITS the slot in that Pilot Mixture Screw with ZERO End Play.
None.
Not even a wiggle!

If you do ... and the wings on the Screw move without the Body of the screw moving ... you'll be trading the screwdriver for a drill shortly thereafter!

 

you got it Rick... scouts honor...

 

ok turned the screws 3 turns out bike fired right up with choke... but then dies shortly after. I wait a few minutes try to start it up again it just right back to life and with full choke runs up to about 4k rpms. then dies after running for a little while. is it safe to say the the fuel starvation is coming from between the fuel tank and the carbs?

 

That is running on the Choke and quitting seems to indicate that when the Starter Jet Fuel Well volume of Fuel is depleted that it's NOT getting Fuel to run from any other source.

You need more Fuel.
Either the Volume in the Fuel Bowls isn't at the right Height or it's not getting drawn-up through the Pilot AIR Passage.

Try turning a Pilot Mixture Screw to see if you can get it to fire and then walk the Screw down and find-out how many turns it took to get it to run.

Adjust the others to the value you got the experimental hole to fire at.

 

well the other reason i was thinking it might be between the tank and the carbs is because the inline filter doesnt always have gas in it it seems the bottom end of the supply line will have gas in it leading to the carbs but the top end of the hose ahead of the fuel filter will be dry and it doesnt seem to be moving very much gas.... sorry for not giving full details earlier i just noticed it... also seems like the petcock is leaking a bit around the seal....

 

Your filter should always be full of fuel.

Sounds like you need to work on the fuel cock.

--EDIT--

I guess I'm supposed to call it a fuel penis. Sorry.

 

yeh im gonna check the fuel wiener tomorrow and see if that gets me somewhere...

 

That "Air Bound" Fuel Filter can be the problem.

Put the Petcock in PRIME and open the Number-1 Drain Screw and let the Fuel Filter fill-up with gas before you close the Number-1 Drain.

Then, set-up the Pilot Mixture Screws for best Idle.

I'll see if I have the "Old School" Technique for that and PM it to you.

 

thanks rick

 

ok same problem

part 2


so I got a new tank on it with some spiffy new paint and a new cleaner better petcock.. so i couldnt get the bike to run with choke off untill i turned all the air/fuel screws all the way out and then turned by idle screw up then it was screaming at about 6000 rpms. I figured i would adjust them all back down and then i would get the idle to even out but that didnt work eventually it was just bogging down and stalling pulled the plugs one was toast colored 2 were rich and 1 was critically lean burning white as a ghost... im open to new ideas here. Im 30 seconds away from running it at 6k rpms into the side of a tanker truck...

thanks

 

ok same problem

part 2


so I got a new tank on it with some spiffy new paint and a new cleaner better petcock.. so i couldnt get the bike to run with choke off untill i turned all the air/fuel screws all the way out and then turned by idle screw up then it was screaming at about 6000 rpms. I figured i would adjust them all back down and then i would get the idle to even out but that didnt work eventually it was just bogging down and stalling pulled the plugs one was toast colored 2 were rich and 1 was critically lean burning white as a ghost... im open to new ideas here. Im 30 seconds away from running it at 6k rpms into the side of a tanker truck...

thanks

 

You can't be making 6,000 Rev's WITHOUT Main Jet Supply.

Investigate:
Out of Sync ... Bad!
Sticking Diaphragm Pistons.
Linkage issues: Binding, stuck, dirty and not closing the Butterflys.
Weak Return Spring
No return Spring
Tight Cable
Binding Throttle Cable

THROTTLE CABLE LINKAGE HOOKUP STUCK UNDER CYLINDER HEAD

Something that is opening the Throttles to allow Main Jet Fuel Supply to enter the Combustion Chambers and rev that Engine too high!

 

Adding to Rick's list...
Choke and throttle cables in the wrong spots (swapped).

 

And they're talking about the little inset brass screws to the left of the plunger in the photo, not the bigger screws on the OTHER side of the plunger.
thx,
baz

 

Now that ↑ is funny, I don't care who you are! :lol:

 

I'm going to ask that you either
A) don't do that or
2) have someone film it.

 

ok a couple questions to add they may help me identify and fix this problem:

when starting the bike cold with choke fully engaged what should my rpms be...

and where should my idle adjustment screw be normally? how many turns...

 

That's funny!

 

ok a couple questions to add they may help me identify and fix this problem:

Boy, that really depend on how well your choke circuit is working, outside temps, state of tune, etc. It's hard to give an accurate answer to that question. But I would expect it to be AT LEAST 1700-2000 rpms.

The idle SPEED screw is located in-between and underneath the two center carbs, and it has a rather large "knurled" thumb-screw type head, and it sticks out straight back (towards the airbox), underneath the airbox rubber boots.

 

ok so i guess what i was getting at was this... if i have my idle screw turned all the way up and my choke fully engaged what is the highest rpms i can expect to get?

 

The Idle Adjustment Rod is there to regulate the Idle within a small window of rpm's due to changes in conditions that would affect the Idle.

Atmospheric Changes being the prominent cause.

You should adjust Idle with the Pilot Mixture Screws with CLOSED Throttles.
You adjust the Pilot Mixture Screws to give you an Idle between 900 and 1,050 rpm's.

Then, as needed. you can use the Idle Adjustment Rod to sustain the Idle if there is some change inthe conditions that would affect it.

If you are not able to Idle with the Idle Adjustment Rod all the way in ... the problem you have is NOT with the Idle Adjustment Rod ... it's with the Pilot Mixtures!

You have to start with Clean Carbs.
Then, you SYNC the Clean Carbs.
Once Synced ... you Adjust the Pilot Mixtures.

Once the Pilot Mixtures are supplying enough Fuel to allow you to Idle without Throttle ... you adjust the Pilot Mixtures to supply additional Fuel to sustain Aceleration as the Engine's Throttles are opened and the Engine
transfers from Pilot Mixture to Main Jet Supply.

Since you are having a rpm related situation with the Idle Rod all the way in ... I would highly suspect that you have clogged Pilot Mixture Passages preventing you from getting the Pilot Mixtures right ... or:

Yo have the Pilot Mixtures entirely too RICH and the Air from the Open Throttles with the Idle Rod all the way open is causing you to have a run-away situation.