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Quaker City Motor Flush

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by knight_007, Mar 24, 2008.

  1. knight_007

    knight_007 New Member

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    Location:
    Dar-es-salaam,Tanzania,East Africa
    Can anyone tell me if this product is safe to use for flushing the engine oil in XJ 750 seca?
    This is what I can get in our local market ..its made in USA by Pennsylvania Petrolum International, this can has a net content of 15fl.oz guess it contains kerosene according to the manufacturers site.
    I wish some one over here (Tanzania ,East Africa ) could have ordered the SEAFOAM.
    I can get gas smell from the engine thro the oil filler ,surprisingly that engine breather pipe which goes to the air box ,I had not connected thinkin the gas wouldn't pour in if it overflowed, maybe it went in thro the valves via the cylinder down to the engine sump :p
    I now hve managed to seal off the 'ON' position of the petcock and am using the 'PRI' postion and hve managed to set the carbs, sounds ok so far ,but I better flush and drain the engine oil before I hit the road.
    (The petcock kit was from Z1 enterprises, have now ordered the kawasaki one and am waiting for it)

    Thanks .
     
  2. TIMEtoRIDE

    TIMEtoRIDE Active Member

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    Not familiar with that exact product, Knight_007,I would assume most motor flush products are similar. If you already have a crankcase full of gasoline, then that is your thinning agent already. There's also the trick of putting a quart of diesel fuel in and just idle the motor for 5 minutes.

    The problem is getting ALL the old oil and motor flush out so you don't mess up your fresh oil. But DON'T remove the drain bolt at the bottom of your motor, it's likely to snap.

    I'm using a $5.00 lawn mower fuel cut-off for now.
     
  3. dburnettesr

    dburnettesr Member

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    most on here will recommend doing multiple oil changes to clear it out,,,,you've already done the engine flush as gas an oil is a good flush at least it better enough have done it,,,
     
  4. Danilo

    Danilo Member

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    Suggest you use Diesel fuel It makes for a V good engine flush .
    Drain yr Oil refill with the correct amount of Diesel RUN the engine Stationary for 15/20 mins at below 3,000rpms. Then flush job Done. Diesel is V good in that it really cleans well, is V cheap, and leaves NO oil destroying solvents behind. A claim FEW commercial flushes can honestly make.
     
  5. gcrick

    gcrick Member

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    Knight's post prompts 2 followup questions:

    1. the XJ650 I got was low mileage (3,800), and runs great, so I didn't do the full-dress engine cleanout I would normally do with an unknown older bike, just cleaned up the carbs and put a couple of oil changes through it @ about 500 miles each. (The theory being, "if it ain't broke...")

    Still, my Maxim is more than 20 years old. And it's not hard to do a flush. So, XJ Gurus, should I maybe do that?

    2. Phil's garage fire, described on another thread, makes me wonder if I should change fuel valves. I've had no problems but those pictures were not only heartbreaking, they were also scary.

    Talking with my smarter mechanic buddy down here, I learned what y'all knew: major fuel leaks aren't all that rare with older Yamaha vacuum (sp?) fuel valves. Should I replace?

    You know, somebody in the "suggestion" forum proposed that, due to the many duplicate questions we YamaNewbies raise, maybe it would be more respectful not to keep pestering you vets with the same ones, but instead post a sticky list of "Things To Do when you get an old XJ." I've been biking long enough myself to know the obvious generic maintenance, but every model has its own quirks that would be good to know. I would even volunteer some work on compiling the list if that would help.

    as always, thanks
    gene
     

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