Pouring gas and Clueless

I've clean the carbs, Checked the floats, check the float levels, and now instead of gas pouring out 1 airboot, it's coming out of 3 of them. Whats going on? Before I open them, could it be bad diaphrams? It seems everything I do to check the carbs or clean them makes it worse than before. Any thoughts?
85 Maxim X 700
Gary

 

Either the needle valves are leaking or the floats are sticking or the floats are set way too high. Perhaps you put them in upside down? Make sure the floats are at the correct level when you hold the carbs upside down and don't bind on the float bowls when you put them on. The floats should be approximately level when they come to rest but check the manual to be sure of the correct position. Then if they still leak check the levels with clear tubes held along side the carb body or by removing the bowl and placing a bowl of liquid underneath them.

 

Thanks, I'll keep checking...
Gary

 

I set my float levels on the bench before I wedged them into the bike.
I measured the floats dry, but still needed a little adjustment onece I put some gas to the inlets.
Mine were SO SO SO far off, I can understand why the PO couldn't get it to run right.

Check your PM

Mike

 

Can you explain this to me? Specifically the part about a bowl of liquid ....

 

Switch:

You should refer to a Repair Manual on the issue of setting Float Level Heights.
Both the Factory Book and the Haynes have photographs and illustrations showing how to adjust the Float Heights and measure the Floats if they are needing to be adjusted.

If your Float Needles are Sticking you have two things to check:
Geometry
Valve Body Stiction

On the Geometry:
The Float Needle Pins have the little wire that wraps over the top of the Float Tab. If the wire is "L" shaped ... you might have to place it onthe other side of the Tab to have the Up~Down Geometry be right.

The L-Shaped wires can make the afloat Needle lean to one side and bind if the Geometry isn't right.

Sticking:

Make a tight wrap of 1200 Finishing Paper and twist it tightly into the Bore of the Float Body and put a new finish on the Inside Diameter of the Float Valve Body.

Any tarnish or stain causing the Pin not to close will be refinished away and allow the Float Pin free travel within the Float Valve Body.

Use Windshield Washer Fluid to fill the Float Bowls and check their heights with a clear piece of hose connected to the Float Drain outlet.

W hen the Fuel Bowls are filled and the hose connected to the Drain Outlet ... opening the Drain Screw will cause the Washer Fluid to exit the Drain Outlet.

Holding the clear hose against the Carb Body the Fluid Level should rise to the level of the Flat Washer that is above the Screw Head holding the Fuel Bowl to the upper Carb Body.