small prob "long"

well i got the old gal running to day... but it took like 45 min of trying to get her to start... i know that my first 2 carbs are doing ok but my last to are crapy... i had to take the pod filter off and put my hand over the end of the carb to get it to start.. and it backfires through the last carbs... i know that she is very rich very rich... the only mods that i have put on the bike are pod air filters and a mac taper tip exhaust... when i got the bike it had 120 main jets and 40 secandary jets... i know that the main is way to big so soon ad my jet kit gets hear i will drop it to a 116 or a 118... i have just had the carbs off and cleaned the crap out of them and found that one of the needle valves were stuck but got it to un stick.... when i put the "choke" on it changes the sound of the bike and stumbles over and over but does not start.... what could it be... or should i just get it runing and take it to a local guy and get it tunes and synced... they start out at like 50 a carb... thanks for all the help and if you need anymore infomation just ask i realy need to get this fixed... also i have just put new plugs in gapped to .28 and 93 oct gas as well... thanks for your time...


mark

ps when she gets warmed up it idles great and has a sh!t ton of power... it fires right up also after she has warmed up... could it be my sec jet that is to small or is the main just so huge that it is flooding the moter :evil: .. thanks again...

mark

 

Since your bike is a 650, your jets are too big now; you need 110 ' s
and that means your carbs are still clogged, and not running right.
You need to make sure every fuel passageway is clear.
You need to research several carb cleaning threads.

 

just put the 112's in that is the lowest in the kit... still does not want to start... i know there is a small leek around the carb to intake boots do to age and i am trying to get them replaed... i have pulled them apart a few times and cleened every thing that i could see... amd have bench sync the carbs the best i could... the bike idle's great once it starts but is a pain to get started... i have to put my hand over the number 4 carb with no filter and she will fire right up.... she spits and spuders a and about 8 grand she comes to life... what do you think.... thanks.... mark

 

You need to clean the passage circled in the attached picture.

Picture Credit - Gamuru

 

That small passage ... marked with the Red Circle ... is Key to getting a Cold Bike to Start.

If Fuel from the Fuel Bowl isn't flowing through that tiny Metering Port and filling-up the Starter Jet Well at the front of the Fuel Bowl ... No Fuel is going to be drawn-up to the Enrichment Valves when the Enrichment Valves are opened.

In more than 90% of the time when a Bike takes a lot of cranking and won't start when cold ... those Passages are solidly blocked with foreign matter and preventing the Well to fill up.

10% of the time ... The Siphon Tube extending into that Well is clogged and needs a Tool inserted in it Jet end to unclog the Siphon Tube.

 

k thanks for the help... will go and give that a try... i cleened them a bit yesterday but dont think that i did a good enough job couse it still is hard... thanks again....

mark

 

You might find this thread helpful.

 

well she fires right up now... but i have a lot of tuning to get her right... she is a little slow on the bottem end but very hot on the top... everything above 2500 is just great but below that it sorta sucks... but all is well and good at least it will start on its own...lol... thanks to everyone that chimed in...


mark

 

A carb synching will probably fix the hesitation at lower end. Got carb sticks?

 

what are carb sticks?

 

Wikipedia has an explanation on what a manometer is. I'm not sure if anyone carries carb sticks anymore as they use mercury and someone has decided that us mortals are too stupid to handle the shiny liquid.

Basically, they're a set of vacuum guages that allows you to set up the carbs so they're all pulling the same amount of vacuum. This balances them and makes each cylinder the same amount of work as the others. You can build your own and there are several versions (here, here, and here) on this forum and all over the web. It's pretty easy to make your own using some clear tubing and a liquid.

 

Now that you have the Bike running and the Top-end worked out ... TWEAK!

READ the Plugs. Look at the Coloration on EACH Plug.
Treat each Cylinder INDIVIDUALLY.
Tweak (my-nutely adjust) the Pilot Mixturue Screws to add or subtract supplemental Fuel from the Pilot Mixtures to achieve a light-to-medium BROWN on the Spark Plugs Center Ceramic Electrode.

What you seek to do is Tweak the Mixture to give you:
Enough to Idle smoothly with closed throttles.
And, ...
A little tiny bit more to sustain the Air-Fuel Mixture for the very, very brief moment that the in-rushing AIR from open throttles will have sufficient Fuel to increase rpms before the Main Jet Supply takes-over.

Too little will be evident in performance.
The bike will cough or backfire.
Too much will also effect performance.
The engine will bogg-out or stall.

The OPTIMUM setting is within about 3-Degrees of Tweak.
About the width of a Nickel.
Almost NOT moving the Pilot Screw but actually opening or closing the Metering Port with the Needle Tip of the Pilot Mixture Screw a very, very small amount.

 

were is the pilot screw.... sorry for all the dull q's

 

On the front.
On the top.
Look to the right of the Enrichment Valves.

You will see a Small Circle.
The Circle will contain the Pilot Screws.
The Circles are either Open ... exposing the threads ... or, ..
Contain Anti-Tamper Plugs covering the Screws.

If the Plugs are there and the Screw Heads cannot be seen ... you have to remove the Plugs before you'll have access to the Screws.

The Plugs must be drilled and a self tapping screw screwed-in and used to pull-out the Plug.

Use EXTREME Caution when drilling a hole through the Plug.
The Screws are just below the Plug and are of soft Brass which can be permanently damaged if the drill contacts the Screw Slot.

 

so the valves that i turned 3 and 1/2 out are the pilot screws... ok i will get to tuning them 2mro.... thanks again for all your help...


mark

 

3-1/2 Turns Out is too far for the 650

Try a Preset of between 2-1/2 -to- 2-3/4
Just beyond 2-1/2
Closer to 2-1/2 than 2-3/4.

Get it to Idle. Then, see what happens when you open the throttles.
The adjustments you make from this Preset will be in the matter of degrees.
2~3 Degrees at a time.
Individually as the Plug Coloration dictates.

 

have her set to 2-3/4 still a little slow off the throttle but getting better... thanks.... mark