Help with my (seca) starter button?

Ok guys - I've searched the forums for an answer to my problem and can't get any results that relate to my problem, so I just decided to post a question and maybe someone can help me.

First of all - please don't laugh - cause I might just be a stupid woman messing with a bike twice her size. :roll:
Not to mention - I've only had my '81 XJ Seca 750R for two whole days, which by the way I totally fell in love with the minute I seen her. But for the life of me I can't figure out the stupid instrument panel with all the fancy little check buttons and warning lights - but that's another story and not my true question.

Anyways the real probelm is that - I tried to start my bike like normal (it sounded fine - no weird noises or anything like that), but I forgot to choke it. So I messed around until I flooded it, so I turned it completely off to let it sit a minute or two.

When I tried to start it again - the starter button won't even press inward, :x so now I can't try to start it again. (I mean - it won't move at all) I also noticed that this time the headlight didn't come on or the little driving light under the headlight won't turn on by flipping the switch either.

So did something go wrong with the starter button or maybe something else like bad wiring, relay, etc.?
Or am I just stupid and don't realize that there is some special technique to this bike (or the stupid instrument panel), so it will start again?

- any help that you can offer - will be very appreciated.

 

The headlights come on only after the bike is started.

As far as the starter button goes.. For the starter to engage (assuming none of the factory safety stuff has been bypassed), the key should be on, the bike should be in neutral (bright green light on the instrument cluster), and the engine kill switch has to be on "Run" (right-hand control).

if the bike is in gear, you have to pull in the clutch to start it.

The starter button itself doesn't move a whole lot... it doesn't make a clicking sound or anything.

So.. that's the "easy" stuff.. although some of us forgot about the kill switch a time or two. :mrgreen:

Now then... there's the dreaded Original Fuse Box From Hell. If the fuse box (under the seat) is original, it will cause you nothing but problems, and it needs to be replaced ASAP. It becomes useless after 20 or so years and can cause countless electrical issues.

 

Thanks for all the advice, but I did try everything that you mentioned already. And please excuse me - cause I really don't want to seem like a b@!#* or anything, because in reality - I'm really not - I promise.
And I'm not the type of woman that thinks she knows everything either(because I really don't), but I did decide a long time ago that life is too short to take meaningless crap from anyone - whether they are male or female.

And maybe I misunderstood you and if I did - I fully apologize for my behavior, but I have to say that I fully realize the concept that a motorcycle will not start unless it's in neutral (you know, the pretty little green light on the instrument cluster, which by the way should never rely on) or it will not start until the clutch lever is pressed in - due to the fact that the motorcycle is in gear (which for safety measures should always be press in when starting - regardless).

And yes - I realize that the starter button doesn't move a whole lot (and maybe you just misunderstood me before), but I'm telling you the start button will not wiggle, move, or press in - like it's stuck or locked in place. I even took it apart to see if it was broken and really couldn't tell. I might just need to replace it, but originally I was looking to see if anyone knew of some type of safety feature that I wasn't aware of and that's why it won't let me push it in, because I of something I did wrong or something is wrong within the bike.

However, I did not know about the issues with the old fuse box and I can't remember if the previous owner told me he had replaced it or not. And maybe if your not too upset or ticked off at me by now - maybe you would know how to tell if it's the original fuse box or not?

The headlight - I didn't think much about cause the newer models have headlights that run all the time, but as for the little driving light underneath it - shouldn't it come on when you flip the switch and while the key and engine cut-off switch is both on?

 

don't worry, nobody's getting ticked off

I didn't mean to make it sound the way it did. It was just the Dr. Seuss version of the XJ's starting diagram.

As far as the start button goes, sounds like something maybe broke off and got stuck in there? Sounds like closer inspection is in order.

The original fuse box has 4 glass tube fuses, and has a Yamaha logo on the cover. After a while, the clips that hold the fuses become brittle and corroded. If yours is already replaced, you just fixed 90% of the electrical problems on your XJ.

the driving light is set up just like the headlight. it will not come on until the bike is running. also, the switch for that light can get dirty and overheat. (mine de-soldered itself after a few seconds). some contact cleaner shot through it might keep that from happening.

 

Cool - now that were on the same page - I want to say sorry for being so dang touchy. I was already frustrated with my bike, and I totally took your message the wrong way.

As for the driving light - I didn't know that, so I'll keep that in mind. The fuse box - I'll have to check next, but I'm hoping that's fixed already, cause it sounds like a real pain in the butt. Okay - so hopefully it is my starter button.

 

The starter button has a little return spring behind it within a little flimsy metal "cage", Darlin', and if it gets weakenedd or breaks or there's a bunch of junk or crud (spider webs galore) inside the switch housing, it can "jam" the pushbutton switch.

If the spring is broken, you'll have to get in there and replace it.

If the pushbutton has gotten wedged/jammed in the "in position", sometimes you can pry very gently around the edges to get it to pop back out.

Either way, the switch housing probably needs to be taken apart and the inner workings examined and repaired/replaced as needed. They're like men---really simple little things inside---so nothing that an Gel can't handle, but just beware of a couple of things:

- as you're taking it apart, note VERY carefully EXACTLY how the wires are routed internally, around little tabs and brackets, etc. The way that they are routed is NOT intuitive and it only can go back together "one way" or else you start pinching or snapping wires....... Best idea is to make a little diagram as you go along.

- as you dis-assemble the various little tiny screws inside, note VERY carefully EXACTLY which screw goes where. Many of them are "similar but different" as far as thread size, etc. Best idea is to make a little diagram as you go along.


P.S> fuseboxes are a piece of cake. Chocolate cake.

 

If you took it apart.. did you notice any greenish color around the connections? It could have sat around outside for awile and collected corrosion internally... best bet is to go to a home improvement store and get a acid brush for 25 cents... cut the bristles half off giving it more of a firm brush.. then go to walmart and get some isopropyl alcohol (91%) for 79 cents and thoroughly clean the contacts in there... isopropyl is proven to clean contacts on electronics and is safe... .. if that don't work.. then you can search ebay and pick up a used assembly for prob $10