put bike back together new problem

put bike back together now the starter button and headlight dont work and the left turn signal clicks slow

 

Battery?

Low voltage; low amps?

Wiring issue to trace? I'm thinking you need to charge that battery.

 

i will second the motion for a weak battery...

 

If the blinkers flash *at all*, the battery probably has a decent charge, certainly enough to power the headlight. The starter might not fire, but the headlight should be on.

My guess is that you have fuse and/or relay problems. Start with the headlight, since it's a simpler circuit and since you're going to have to take it open anyway. Are the fuses sound? Is the bulb sound? Is there 12V to the bulb? Does it matter if you click up to high beams or not?

What bike is this?

 

Brent:

Do us all a favor and complete the signature section of Your Account with a little bit of information so we know what the heck's what's-what!


(Signature Section)
__________________________________________________________
(Year) - (Model) - (Miles) - (Stock/Modified) - (Last Carb Cleaning)

 

charged battery which is new last year
still no headlight
will check starter in morning

did notice in the past that the starter button would sometimes hesitate if you held it it would take maybe 30 seconds then fire and sometimes just fire right away

i have been tracing a wire diagram could it be a relay or diode
engine stop switch still makes a relay click sound


ohh and i just replaced the fuse box checked all that it looks good but before i did it somebody had bypassed the headlight fuse not sure why but i put it through a new mini fuse

 

cant get my pc to save signature
so
1981 xj650 maxim
layed down 14 years ago they ripped off the headlight assembly and screwed the gas tank and exhaust

used tank, hradlight, forks, exhaust from 1981 xj550 parts bike

cleaned and bench synced carbs
replaced fuse box

 

The problem you are having with the Starter Button might be related to a build-up of carbon dust on the Armature and Brush Holder in the Hot end of the Starter Motor.

I'd pull the Starter and Test it with a Battery Charger to see if it's getting a full Connection when the juice hits it.

It isn't a bad idea to pull some maintenance on the Starter Motor. You can pull-away the middle body of the Starter from the Electrical end and get a spray nozzle in there with no problem.

The Planet-end comes right off and is easily cleaned-out and re-greased to give the Planet Gears a well-deserved Spring Cleaning.
The grease gets old and tired.
It boggs down the Starter and makes a mechanical resistance instead of turning quite easily.

Search: Chinese Puzzle
Author: RickCoMatic

Starter Motor Cleaning and Lubing!

A Starter will be BOTH intermittent and slow to come-up to speed if the Armature is caked with Carbon Dust from the Starter Brushes.
It will also give you a chance to eyeball the Starter Brushes to see it they need replacement!

 

Sounds like a poor earth to me(button earths through handlebars), had exactly the same trouble with the button. Stripped it cleaned it but no good as the button cage had weakened, eventially wired in a new set of controls that had an earth lead, made sure it was well earthed and not had a problem with it since. Headlight probably a totally seperate issue.

 

went into garage this morning and everything electrical works

exhaust pipe 2 and three are mildly warm 1 and 4 are hot which i was having issues in another forum post
it seems like 2 qnd 3 are running some of the time but i cant get them to fire on their own the coil is good i checked
the idle circuit looks clean and carb spray blows right though it

the float levels are on the low side would that cause intermitant running?

i cant seem to get them just right either to high or to low anybody got tips on gettin em right

 

Floats on the low side would only affect Wide Open Throttle running. Otherwise the Fuel Supply would still be constant at low rpm.

Swap the Coils Plug-in's to the wiring harness ans see if that makes the opposing cylinders miss. If it does ... you have an Ignition related problem to shake-down. If not ... Fuel Supply.

At this juncture I'm thinking that you have an Ignition Problem.
Once you have the Ignition Problem worked-out you can move to tuning.

Prove the ignition is good before going-on to tuning. Because if you have an intermittent Ignition you won't know what is is you are doing when the bike runs good for a few minutes!

 

i just put a coil with same numbers off of my 550 on it it started running well

tuned carb drove bout half an hour then started running like crud think i fouled the plugs gonna replace them tomorrow and reset the fuel mixture

 

i am thinking of replacing the coils with new ones just to get rid of any future gremlins
is there a special type for me to put in it stock aftermarket ???
any suggestions
whats required

 

i am also looking for new seals between the engine and exhaust the old ones on the bike are not sealing to the 550 exhaust on the bike

 

Dyna or Harley-Davidson Coils are nice. Dyna if you want performance-type.

Exhaust flange donuts can be saved if they aren't burned-through.
Coat them with several coats of Permatex High-Tack and seal the Neck by painting some of the High-Tack in the Exhaust Port.

 

does it matter what coils i get or will any dyna dual output coil do

 

The Dyna's will do just fine. But, they are just Coils. You need wires and plug caps too; with them.

On some bikes the Dyna's take a bit of fabrication to mount. But its just a matter of hardware and patience.

There are photos of Dyna Coils installed in the archives.

 

i can get a hold of dyna coils but i need to know what to order
is there a special model of dyna coil or will any do

keep in mind im a plumber
electrical is not my specialty but im learning

 

The DYNA Coils are reputed to be the best. But, they are different from the Stock Coils in that they will need to have the Spark Plug Wires and Plug Caps added-on to them.

Although this is not the most difficult of tasks it must be said that it is a Critical Install. What you do will determine how well the Ignition will perform and fire the Plugs.

You should put the word out for some hand-on help getting these Coils on your bike. It would be better to have someone with the Technical Skills to watch and assist; rather than trying to do it yourself.

Since the new Coils will be the Hehart of your Ignition, I think it might be a good idea to put the word out to the Membership for a wrencher near you that would help you place the new Coils, Wires and Caps on the Bike.

Should you not find a Member that could provide assistance then this might be a situation where you should have a Shop do the install in order to insure a trouble-free installation and proper settting-up of the wires and ends.

Look at the Dyna web site and get an idea of what you would be dealing with and then determine if you still want to do the job yourself or have a more experienced hand assist you with your new Coils.

http://www.dynaonline.com/skins/product ... kes/coils/