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broke exhaust stud...

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by nsosh5, Apr 25, 2008.

  1. nsosh5

    nsosh5 Member

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    Yeah I was changing a bent exhaust stud. And it broke.... I tried a screw extractor but the frame is in the way to get a straight shot at it. any ideas???
     
  2. BlackRig

    BlackRig Member

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    Welcome to the club!!

    I broke one on my 02 Honda 919 last month installing a center stand. I took it to the dealer, and they couldn't get it out either. Now it's at the machine shop getting drilled out. That was a very long, beautiful weather, frustrating, month ago. End rant.

    Anyway, I've been told, extractors and E-Z outs will commonly break on exhaust studs. I think the trouble comes from the constant heating and re-heating of the stud. I would pull the motor to get a straight shot at the bolt. Try EZ outs or drill extractors 1st. What's the worst case? New head? :cry: Or ship it to a professional. I have used a few extractors on carbs and such with good results.

    Future advice, (coming from someone who also wish HE'd heard it B4) I would suggest warming the motor a bit B4 pulling exhaust studs. (obviously let it cool a little so your arm doesn't get torched) But that may be hard to do at this point.

    Hopefully someone else will have a nice work around for the situation. Myself? I tend to do things the hard way sometimes. Good luck.
     
  3. cycleman

    cycleman Member

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    A couple of suggestions on removing stuck/broken bolts, studs etc.

    1. A mechanic firend of mine removes these on car motors etc by welding a nut onto the remaining stud. The stud then is fairly easy to turn out. I've seen him do it many times and it works.

    2. Another good idea in trying to remove any bolts that seem to be seized up is to use an air hammer/chisel briefly on the head of the bolt. The vibration frees it up. Don't overdo it or you'll destroy the head of the bolt/nut.

    3. You can also try heating the bolt up. Quite often you are dealing with two different metal compounds and they expand/contract at different rates.

    Can't thing of anything else.
     
  4. bap3826

    bap3826 Member

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    Yes, welcome to the club. There are a few good threads here on this topic so search around a bit. There are lots of opinions on how best to tackle this one. To fix mine I ended up drilling then grinding the remains out with a dremel tool using one of the 9000 series bits and lots of WD40. Sometimes you get lucky and the fragments fall out without damaging the thread. Other times you strip the threads then need to repair them using Heli-coil.

    If the stud turned a little and then broke, you can probably get it out without damaging the threads. But if it is completely seized then you will likely be going the Heli-coil route.

    My dremel tool has the flex-shaft accessory. That makes it easier to get into tight spaces. But you might have to pull the engine if the stud is on an inboard port. This isn't as bad as it sounds, just time consuming. I did it for the first time this winter and it went OK. While the engine is out, you can do other maintenance too. (A good opportunity to set valve clearances.)
     
  5. nsosh5

    nsosh5 Member

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    yeah I am going to have to do the heli coil route. It broke off in side with nothing sticking out just my luck thanks again
     
  6. corner27

    corner27 Member

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    I just had this happen last night. Except I guess the stud had broke when the PO had it, and he just used a bolt. I was tightening it, and it just snapped off. I think I'm going to try and weld a bolt to the end. I've done it before, and it seems to work pretty good. I don't think the bolt will be very tight in there.
     

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