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Bad Stator! Fixed...Kinda!

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by luvmy40, Apr 25, 2008.

  1. luvmy40

    luvmy40 Member

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    Well I thought all was good with my new (1981) Seca 750.
    Sadly the stator appears to be bad. 30VAC on 2 phases @ 3krpm
    0VAC on 1 phase. :evil:
    Hoping its the stator and not the rotor.
    I found a rebuilt stator w/ 90 day warranty for 159.00 after tax. Is this a good price?
    Doesn't matter anyway as I ordered the coil already.
    The Molex connector under the seat is melted pretty badly. The new stator should come with the female side but I will probably have to remove the plastic from the harness side to get them to match up. Does anyone have any extras laying around?

    The new stator should be in Tues. I'll update when it arrives, if anyone else cares. :lol:
     
  2. MiCarl

    MiCarl Active Member

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    Re: Bad Stator!

    It's not the rotor. A bad rotor will effect all three phases.

    There are only 2 of us that have good stator plugs and they are in service. Cut the plug off both ends and solder the wires together. Seal with shrink tubing or liquid electrical tape (my choice). I had to do the same thing to my Venture.
     
  3. Robert

    Robert Active Member

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    Re: Bad Stator!

    Well Luv, your stator cost isn't too bad. As for the connectors, new ones can be sourced from Mike's XS page. He is in our links section. I would however recommend that you upgrade to a more water/environment tight connector such as the Conxall line available at Digikey or Allied. Use the Maxi line as they will handle the amperage present. Best of all, you won't suffer with melted connector syndrome again. I would also agree with MiCarl about soldering it all together only if you don't plan on having to remove it any time soon and are handy with the iron.
     
  4. luvmy40

    luvmy40 Member

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    Re: Bad Stator!

    Well, since this stator lasted 28 years (although only 20,000 mi) I think I will solder and shrink tube the new one in. Less chance for corrosion.
    I also ordered a crank shaft seal as there was a small amount of oil in the gen box. I have seen at least one post here that stated that there is an O-ring as well as the shaft seal. The Yam dealer said "No O-ring on my diagram" hope he's right as my O-ring kit is depleted. Any input?
     
  5. ArizonaSteve

    ArizonaSteve Member

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    Re: Bad Stator!

    Did you check the stator windings with an ohmmeter? Does the one having zero output have a short to ground? If it does you might be able to find the short and fix it.
     
  6. luvmy40

    luvmy40 Member

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    Re: Bad Stator!

    Not willing to spend that much time fixing something that I can replace fairly in expensively.

    If I could not find a replacement part or if they were prohibitively expensive, I would dive in head first and just rewind the thing my self. But that would take at least six hours and the shellac/resin dip is a PITA.
     
  7. ArizonaSteve

    ArizonaSteve Member

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    Re: Bad Stator!

    I wasn't suggesting you rewind the stator just check it for shorts. It might be one that's easy to find and fix in just a couple of minutes if the wire is touching the frame somewhere.
     
  8. luvmy40

    luvmy40 Member

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    Re: Bad Stator!

    Gotcha,
    I checked the leads from the coils up to the Molex connector. No bare spots that I could find.
     
  9. Robert

    Robert Active Member

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    Re: Bad Stator!

    The seal is captured in a carrier that is in turn sealed into the case with an o-ring. If you hit BikeBandit.com, 82 XJ750 RJ crankcase view, Item# 34. This should be a heads up on how knowledgable your Yam parts guy is.
     
  10. luvmy40

    luvmy40 Member

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    Well, I called the Yam dealer yesterday to find that my parts had been there since Monday and the didn't call me. Ok, No big deal. So I grab the old stator and bearing/seal block and head off to the big city, only to find that the seal they ordered is is for the main crank, not the gen shaft. The reason they couldn't find the O-ring is because the are looking at the diagram for the main crank case, which has nothing even loosely resembling a generator rotor or stator coil.
    When I point to the generator assembly on the micro fiche the guy argues that that is the starter motor assembly and why don't I just let their mechanics take a look at the bike for $75.00/hr!
    I finally got him to order the right seal and O-ring and then he said "Oh, I won't charge you for the wrong seal that you ordered." Mighty nice of him, Huh?
    So, since there is no way that I'm not riding this weekend, I came home and put he beast back together with the old seals. I also dropped the Kerker 4 into 1 to change the oil and filter. When I got her fired up I checked the voltage at the battery and had 15VDC at 2k rpm. Success! next comes the test drive... The battery warning indicator came on for about 15 seconds then went out.
    Does this indicator monitor the gen output, the battery voltage or is it the output from the acid level sensor installed in the battery. Is it possible that this level sensor actually reads the PH of the electrolyte? Anyway, hopefully it was a fluke reading. It was late when I finished and I didn't want to be "That neighbor with the loud ass bike" so I will check the AC output of the generator today(this afternoon).
     
  11. BlueMaxim

    BlueMaxim Active Member

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    The battery warning light indicates low fluid level in the battery.
     

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