Choke and fuses

I know, that's an interesting combination there, but I figured it would be the best way to get attention.

I've just started riding my 82 XJ650 (in fact, today was the first time I went further than the end of my street on it). I'm very new to motorcycles, although I have taken the MSF course. The questions I have (at this moment, I KNOW there will be many more) are 1) which way do you push in the choke? I'm assuming that in the direction of the arrow is putting the choke into affect, and away from the rider is "turning it off", am I correct? 2) I'm attaching a picture I took of my fuse box under my seat, I know that this is an old bike so I need to be wary of old electrical which is why I was checking out it's condition. In the photo attached you will see 3 glass fuses in the box and the 2 brown wires going to a more modern plastic fuse. I'm guessing that this one is replacing the fuse that should be 2nd down from the top on the picture, is this correct? 3) Should I plan on just completely replacing the fuse block on this thing?



Thanks in advance and sorry for being so wordy, I just can't seem to get my point across in a quick and concise manner.

Beardking

 

The choke isn't really a choke, it's a valve that lets in more fuel mixture when opened so when in doubt look at the plungers on the carbs. When the plungers are closed (in) the choke is off and when they are pulled out the valve is open and more fuel mixture is admitted and the choke is "on".
It should be easy to tell if the choke is on because it will kill the engine when it's warm.

I would replace that fuse holder as soon as possible. Also check the connectors and grounds for corrosion and loose connections.

 

"because it will kill the engine when it's warm"

See, that's exactly why I asked the question. Like I said, I'm REALLY new to this XJ so I don't know jack about it yet. I rode it down to the store this evening to fill up on gas and only had to put in like 1.5 gallons even though it died on me on the way and I put it on reserve. I could be wrong (just as my wife), but I'm thinking it's because I had the choke in the wrong position for travelling. One thing I don't like about not buying a new bike, it doesn't come with an owners manual to tell me every thing about it.

 

Move lever toward end of handlebar to enrich for cold starts. Push toward center for normal operation.

 

Choke question is answered so I'll skip to the fuses. I have seen this before and it is not a quick fix. It will actually work for replacing the fuse box. The stock fuse box is known for trouble as the bike ages. It is a regualer practice to change it out. Here someone had trouble with the turn signal circuit and fixed it. I'm wit Steve, change it out and be done with it.

 

This advise is for everyone who still has the original fuse panel.

Get rid of it! Either have a new OEM style replacement (for purists) ... or, Get a new fuse panel that's both dust and moisture resistant.

The stock ones wear-out over time and there's nothing that can be done about it. Buying the replacement clips is foolish -- for the pirce of a pair you can buy a top-quality -- 4 or 6 circuit -- marine rated -- replacement.
+++++++

There's no CHOKE.
A "Choke" restricts the amount of AIR during cold starting ... effectively making the mixture rich until the choke is off.

Your motorcycle has a "FUEL ENRICHMENT SYSTEM" -- some nit-wit decided to call it a choke. OK ... pretty much works the same way -- but, in reverse.

The Mixture is enriched -- MORE FUEL is added ... Not LESS AIR. You wind-up with a rich mix that will fire-up and get a cold engine started.

Thumb levers are of a variety of styles. Generally, Left or Down OPENS the enrichment circuit (Choked) ... Right or all the way up ... CLOSES the circuit -- (No choke).

Look at the carbs while you work the lever. If the inrichment valves are pulled out ... thats ON ... when they drop back down ... that's OFF.

 

Any suggestions on where to get a new fuse box. If I go through the effort to change it out, I'd really prefer to go with the more modern plastic fuses so I can get replacements just about anywhere.

Also, anyone have any clue as to what the little white plug with the black and red wires going directly to the battery are for? looks to me almost like it's a battery charger lead.

 

MiCarl has it...

Before I start my 82 XJ750 I pull the choke all the way towards the end of the handlebar. Start the bike and then push the lever back towards the gauges over the next two minutes as the bike warms up and the idle increases. You should be able to move the lever all the way towards the gauges before you take off.

On a hot day or right after riding you may need less choke or no choke at all.

Welcome to riding!

 

That little plug could be for a battery charger. It looks like the connector that allows me to swap out the battery clips or cigarette lighter adaptor on my float charger. It could also be for some type of accesory the PO took off.

 

The added connector looks like a battery charger pluc-in from an after market add-on, I have seen them before. As far as the fuses, replace them, It is something that will have to be done now, or later and if you got the time might as well go ahead and get er done.

 

I got my fuse box from here.
http://www.wirewerksperformance.com/

 

I just replaced my fuse box with some in-line fuses from autozone. They use the modern blade fuses, and the way I have it set up, I have 4 extra fuses right there incase one blows.

This all (inclusing the fuses) cost around $10, and will keep me from having to drive home with no headlight in the middle of the night (again)...

 

Sorry to bring back an old post, but I was searching and found it. This answered one of my questions. However, after about 30 seconds in the on position (twoards the end of the bars), my idle RPM sits at about 4k. Is this supposed to happen? I have to play with the positioning of the lever to get it to idle smooth and get a 'non sticky' throttle response.

 

nothing??

 

Towards the end of the bars = more fuel = more R's. Towards the gauges = less fuel. Air cooled engines warm up pretty quick and as a previous poster mentioned, you may not need as much or any enrichment (choke) on a nice warm day. If you are still having this problem with the "choke" pushed all the way in towards the gauges side, adjust your idle screw (knob in the middle of the carbs on the airbox side) until you get an idle around 1000 R's. If it STILL isnt going well for you, chances are you are due for a cleaning and carb sync. In that case, there is a multitude of guides on these forums already that outline that entire procedure.

 

Thanks for the help. Im having a hard time finding the idle screw though. I know where to look, but I dont see anything. Do I have to take anyting out/off to access it?