Engine studs - removing?

Anybody ever remove an engine stud from an XJ? I put a new head on and I have a couple studs that are too short now. I have the longer ones but they don't seem to want to move.

Figured I'd ask on the forum before I begin the "persuasion" method.

 

I just had to remove a bent stud, since the stud was garbage I just took a piece of pipe and slipped it over the stud, then bent it down 90 degrees about half way down (essentially creating a handle for leverage) and then proceeded to twist it out counterclockwise.

 

Stud puller is a bit pricy and the cheap ones don't work worth a darn. I've had very good success wedging two nuts together on the stud and locking them tightly together. Once that is accomplished, simply turn the stud loose. Be sure to get high grade nuts, the lower grades tend to be too soft for holding tight.

 

don't forget that it works even better if you put a washer between the two nuts you are jamming together and then turn the bottom nut.

Sean

 

I have to ask; why are the studs short? Did they break? If not then something else is wrong like a guide is caught or the cams are installed and won't let the head sit all the way down.

 

I put a new head on and the engine the head came off had all the studs the same length. The engine I'm using has 2 different stud lengths. My options are to either replace the entire engine or swap some of the studs.

So, without access to a welder, I can put two nuts on the stud with a washer between and turn the bottom nut to loosen the stud? I assume these engine studs are threaded in?

 

i havnt had my heads off but i did have a broken exhaust stud
i heated it up with a torch then used a flux brush to brush on some vegetable oil on it which flowed right into the threads
i did this 3 times and it came out with a pair of channel locks
maybe you can free them up that way

 

Yes they are threaded in. I would also spray a good dose of penetrating oil on the studs to help free them.

 

They are threaded in and locktighted too. You need to tighten up the nuts together pretty snugly with the washer in between. Then turn it out by the bottom nut. If it turns on the stud you need to tighten it up some more. You can "wack" the end of the stud to "shock" the locktight loose but not needed most of the time.

I haven't measured the XJ studs but i use a custom set of ARP studs on all the Vmax engines I build. They probably have a stud that will work for the XJ bikes too. I would just need the overall length, thread length on each end and thread size/pitch.

Sean

 

be carefull For reasons unknown Yama chose to provide significantly shorter threads into the enginge caes on these bikes.
EASILY damaged which then leads to a whole new level of Pain.

 

i have a stud that is broken off inside, unfortunately it had to be the most difficult one to get to, seeing as the frame is right in the way. I'm going to have to move the motor over an inch or so so i can drill the thing out, what a pain.

 

Nice tip on putting a washer between the two nuts. I've tried the double-nut method with varied success in the past. I'll be sure to use a washer between the two nuts next time.

Here's another possible help:

There's a new product on the market from Loctite called "Freeze and Release". You spray this stuff on a stuck fastener from 4-6" away for 20 or 30 seconds. It freezes the surface to something like -40 degrees AND it's a penetrating lubricant. The theory is that it freezes the fastener which opens up voids to allow the penetrating lube to make it into the threads. They claim that if this doesn't work, get a torch. Not sure HOW good it works, but I used it on some studs on the head of my son's dirt bike and they came right out. I could have used Liquid Wrench or PB Blaster, but I had a couple samples of this stuff (I work for a distributor, the local rep hooked me up).

Not sure if it's available in auto stores, etc. yet, but you can definitely get it from a distributor (like a bearings and PT house....). Worth a try.

 

sounds like a liquid nitrogen based product. It will shrink parts very well. Combine that with a hot part and you can get a really good change in dimension to aid in removal or parts. Probably work really good for bearing races.

Sean

 

Thanks guys. Got the studs out using 2 nuts. I found it worked better without the washer.