Start up question

Ok here is the problem. I started the bike a week or two ago and stopped to grab something quick for lunch (5-10 minute ride). When I came out it would not start. I didn't have time to do too much. I checked some of the wiring, I checked switches and attempted to jump start from a car. Nothing would work. I left it there for the day and came back after work, it started right away. And has started fine since then.

I come to this morning. I drove the bike into town again about 5 minutes and stopped to fill the tank. Once full I run into the same problem no start.

Now I am able to drive it to and from work even stopped down in the city after a 30 minute ride and filled up with gas and it started for me to finish the ride to work.

Has anyone run into this issue or have any ideas?

Thanks,

 

You didn't say whether it spun over or just did nothing at all.

Have you done the fuse box swap yet? Could be loose stuff there.

Starter button and/or stop switch contacts may need cleaning. Starter relay might be slow to pick up. Mine occasionally does that. I hold the starter button in for a second longer and the relay picks up and starts.

Sometimes, folks are so intent on finding a "hot" wire problem that they forget about checking the grounds.

Good luck.

Rusty

 

If your symptoms include hearing the relay click, but the starter doesn't turn over, then yes, I had similar issues a year ago. The wire running into the starter was all torn up and gummed up and one of the brushes was burnt up and the plastic insulator that the positive wire runs through into the starter was all cracked apart into pieces inside the starter. The solution to my problem was to order a starter rebuild kit off of ebay and rebuild the starter using Rickomatics write up. Even if this isn't the problem, it won't hurt to clean up that starter. It's an easy job.

 

No spin unless I short the solenoid. But still not turning over. Yes I have a new blade fuse box in. Held down the button and nothing.

One thought I had was when I flick the switch from kill to run I usually hear a small click. I was not hearing that this morning. Is that a connection to the relay under the tank?

 

My problem started out like you describe. I finnaly got around to following Gamuru's instructions and was able to find I had an intermittent bad switch and a cracked wire. I bypassed the switch and fixed the wire and have not had a problem since.

Here is his how to: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=7828/

BTW... Great Picture. I have a Bully too

 

I had a similar issue when I first got my XJ550R two years ago.

It was the starter relay. I replaced that and haven't had a problem since.

 

It might be that you have to clean-up the contact end of the armature in the Starter.

Carbon Dust has a way of shorting that starter out one minute and being fine the next.

You can pull the Starter and spray alcohol on the armature and brushes.
Use a nylon bristle toothbrush if there is a build-up.

Pull the starter. Clean the heck out of it.

After you get it on the bench ...

Two long screws hold BOTH indexed ends to the main body.

Remove the gear end and COMPLETELY clean and re-lube that end.
You'll need to spread one Circlip to get the Planet Main Shaft out.
Keep track of washers and spacers.
Look on the ends of the shaft and inside the housing for thin Thrust Washers that like to stay stuck where they are.

Keep everything in order as you disassemble the Planet end.
Two small Planet Gears on opposed shafts.
The Ring Gear and Main Shaft.
Every Spacer and Thrust Washer.

Clean the "Whole-works" of the "Business-end." All of it so nice and clean a Marine Drill Instructor would have the Company check-out yours as good example.

Check for washers and thrust washers hiding on shafts and bearing ports.

Clean the Electric end; too.

Pull the Case away from the Motor -- slowly.
There's NO slack in the wire connecting the Brushes to the External Power Post.
Slip the Brushes off the Commutator.
Look for a Thrust washer - inside the Case - surrounding the port for the case bearing bushing.

With the starter exploded. Clean.
Use straight Isopropyl Alcohol loaded into a sprayer that has the Stream or Spray option.
("Honey, did you see the Windex. I can't seem to find it.")

Withdraw the Armature.
Spray everything until its completely clean and what you are spraying ON is as clean as what is dripping OFF!

Shoot the Commutator, Brushes, Brush Housing, Electrical Lead and the inside of the Electric end Case. Clean.

Shoot WD-40 on the CLEAN windings and magnets.

Lube the whole-works as you reassemble the Starter.

Using Top Quality Synthetic Waterproof Grease:
Everything and every surface on the Planet - Business End - gets lubed as it's reassembled.
Shafts, shaft bushing ID's, washers, spacers, gears, pivots, bushings, etc.
Grease everything. Either liberally -- for function, or smeared-on for both rotational forces on it ... or, to hold it from slipping as you reinsert bearing shafts into bushed port on the case.

Spin the Planet Shaft after its re-clipped in and grease the rotating Planet Gears -- "On the Fly" ... as they rotate around the inside of the Ring Gear.

Lightly smear washers and spacers on the Electric End ... but, don't allow the grease to contaminate electric connections and Commutator.

Get a dab of grease into the port on the Electric end; and smear the end of the shaft which fits there.

Now, the fun and games of getting the Brushes lifted onto the Commutator and everything lined-up and back together begin.

It's like a Chinese Puzzle.

Only ... "Made in Japan" !

 

My start button doesn't always make contact.
Usually the first try is fine, if you need a second try you have to wiggle button under your thumb a bit then it fires.
Start with the easiest, of course it won't be the easiest thing but it's a place to start.
'

 

I had a chance to take things apart and clean everything. I found that my side stand relay was flakey. Once I isolated it I found that it would not work everytime.

Thanks everyone for the advice with eveything you gave me I have gone and cleaned up all those connections so that they will hopefully not be a probem down the road.

 

The Sidestand Switch is a double-whammy.
The inside of the Switch gets dirty and it begins to stick closed driving you buggy with killing the Engine when you shift out of Neutral and try to go.
It stays closes and kills the Ignition.

Its linkage sometimes binds if the Rod gets dried-out of caked with grime.
It gets shoved to the rear closing the switch but doesn't always return under the spring load of the switch doing the same thing.

Keeping the switch and the linkage well cleaned and lubes is the key to avoiding that frustration.
Spraying it clean with Disc Brake Cleaner does the job.
Lubing the pivot hole with a bit of synthetic waterproof grease reduces the chance it will bind.