coils and leads

while out on my maximX 700 yesterday in the manky English weather she went onto 3 cylinders then started skipping onto 2 returned home in the back of a recovery van his quick diagnoses the 1 of the coils was knackered Q where can i get a new set of coils and leads from

 

M&P do some dual output high power coils, not cheap though.

 

cheers muchly are the leads incorpurated into the coils or are the separate

 

They are seperate and £95 a pair, but thats in the 2002 catalogue.

 

Noob, do you have a link or web site for these coils?

 

"manky"? "knackered"? :?

From what I understand the X has issues with coils getting wet; have you tried it again after the weather stopped being "manky" to see if the coil in question is still "knackered"?

 

Dyna DC1-1 coils are the recommended upgrade on the X and most other XJ bikes. Accel 140403 3ohm coils will also do the job.

Here's some good info on the Dyna's including install instructions.

http://www.maxim-x.com/dyna_coils.html

I've also seen some weather-proofing directions for your oem coils but I can't find them right now. For my money, I'd just go with the upgrade. Check with Len (Chacal) on here for the Dyna's or prowl eBay for the Accel coils. I think I saw a new pair with brackets and wires on eBay today for not a bad price.

 

The ones M&P had, they done have any more, just checked. They were dyna's though.

 

cheers guys im guessing it was/ is weather based as friday night in the dry shy ran as sweat as a nut (just a tad thirsty)but if i can afford it id like to replace MaximumX if you can find out where you sore thoughs coils and leads id be greatfull

 

If it is just the wires that are knackered. (nackered?) ... you can, with some time and the right tools ... replace the leads on the Original Coils.

The job requires removine the case material from around the lead and finding the nail-like point where the wire terminates.

I recently performed this surgery on a stock coil and was able to solder two new spark plug wires on to the coil.
It was a time consuming adventure.

I used a Dremel Tool with a Wand Extention and a High-speed cutting Bit.
I took-out a good deal of the hard plastic case until the wire was exposed and then removed the material "Holding" the wire firm inside the case.

Once the wire is free from its surrounding plastic it pulls right out.
I inserted some lengthy news wire from a Volkswagen Passat and soldered them to the protruding tip from the coil.

Next, I filled the void of removed material with an epoxy and let it cure.
The Coil works fine and the new wires are supplying the right resistance.
Not for everyone to do.
Just an option in case the high cost of new Coils gets in the way as it did for me.

 

dam uv got a steady hand

 

It was like Dental Surgery.
I had the ShopVac taking away the material as I did the cutting.
That helps a great deal because you can see what you are doing and it keeps the mess down.

Once you get in to the surrounded wire ... its easy to remove the material because you have the wire to follow.
Cutting away just enough material around the Coils contact point for soldering-on the new replacement is the trick.

Remove as little material as necessary to get the old wire out and the replacement one in place.
I went with VW Wires because they are made by Bosch and have stainless wire and multiple layers of insulation.

Flooding the "Incision" with Epoxy is the trick in closing-up the job.
I taped it over with masking tape and made the Epoxy with a bit of extra hardener to make it flow easier.

Then, I mixed-it and swirled-it 'round the screwdriver and let it just trickle right down the screwdriver into the taped-on form.
It filled the cavity with no problem.

Once it hardened ... I had to remove a bit of the new material to get it to clear the center rail of the frame and mount like the original.

 

Here they are! In stock, of course.........


ic3) HCP245 Aftermarket DYNA HIGH-OUTPUT IGNITION COILS, a pair of high-output (40kV) replacement coils. 3.0 ohms primary resistance means you won't be burning up your TCI box; 14.4K ohms secondary resistance means you get a much more serious spark than a stock factory coil will ever produce. Both the primary and high-voltage (output) terminals are brass, which means they'll never corrode; no exposed laminations to rust or degrade over time; and each coil is fully and completely ultrasonically welded shut and encased in a tough thermoplastic shell to prevent any problems with moisture intrusion (a real problem with older factory coils). Output terminals accept either 7mm or 8mm wires (note that wires, output boots, and spark plug caps are NOT included).

NOTE: for most XJ model bikes, these coils will require you to fabricate special mounting "U"-brackets to properly mount them into the stock locations, as well as an assortment of different length bolts, washers, spacers, etc. You want to end up with the coil output terminals facing "down" (towards the engine) rather than "out" (towards the horizontal) and that is why you need to fabricate brackets. Not hard to do, but rather time-consuming.....it's cramped under there! You may also have to re-route some wiring harnesses and/or relocate some relay holders. Plan on spending 4 hours planning your install and then a couple of dollars in small parts!.

Models that mount the coils up on the steering neck (some 700 models) will also have to fabricate brackets.

HCP245 pair of Dyna high-output "green" coils:
$ 119.00



Spark Plug Wires:


spw1) Aftermarket SPARK PLUG WIRE SETS feature a solid copper-core, non-suppression (zero ohms resistance) and are needed when using aftermarket Dyna coils. Each set contains two 4-foot length of 7mm wires with a tall, molded rubber 135-degree angle plug boot on both ends. Cut each wire in half, and now you have four (4) two-foot long wire segments, each with a molded 135-degree angled rubber boot on one end (and a bare wire on the other end, which become the coil end of the wire). Kits come with four coil-end brass crimp-on terminals, a straight rubber coil cap, and installation instructions.

NOTE: you can, of course, cut the wires down to any needed length (two feet is actually too much for most XJ models), and, if you wish, you can cut off the molded rubber plug boot and use the original style NGK resistance caps for a "factory" type appearance. These copper-core wires, boots, and terminals are zero-resistance throughout, which is the ideal situation for situations where electrical RFI interference isn't an issue (like on older motorcycles!).



HCP4014 Aftermarket 7mm cooper-core, non-suppression (zero ohms resistance) BLACK Spark Plug Wire Set, more than enough to do one bike.
$ 18.00


HCP4015 Aftermarket 7mm cooper-core, non-suppression (zero ohms resistance) RED Spark Plug Wire Set, more than enough to do one bike.
$ 18.00

 

My mistake. The ones I saw on eBay are the 140404 which are lower resistance coils (0.7 ohms) and will likely cause problems with your TCI.