Honda vs Yamaha Master Cylinder

Ok, Here's the problem, the master cylinder on my fathers '79 cb750 is shot, it needs a kit and a whole new reservoir. Those parts will run $100 +. Mikes xs has a complete replacement master cylinder for $69. the question/problem is are the banjo bolts on the Japanese motorcycles the same or different.

Any input at all on this would be greatly appreciated.

 

all the ones i've seen were the same
in looking for brake lines and their hardware they only list the bolt not the bolt for different models, although H.D. is probably different

 

thanks polock, that seems to be the result I've been finding, just curious as to what others might have tried or have known about

 

Are the M/C diameters the same size?

 

Do not forget the mirror is a right thread on the Honda were the yam is a left

Slick

PS i did it the other way i have a honda one on mine

 

I have a suzuki katana master cyinder on my seca, it was standard diameter cant comment about the honda

 

The only things you have to watch for on master swaps are:

Bar diameter (most jap bikes are 7/8th) - this is no issue other then if it will fit onto your bar.

Mirror mount (yamaha uses opposite threads on opposing masters). Most sportbike masters do not have mirror mounts and even a remote reservoir which will work fine if you make a custom mount to hold it. Again this is a minor issue.

Master Cylinder Bore diam (cast into the master - 5/8th and 14mm are common). Many times a stronger master is the one with the smaller bore. It requires more lever distance but applies greater force. A very common upgrade for our Vmax builds are to replace the stock 5/8th master with one from an FJR1300 which is 14mm. This makes a large increase in braking power and better "feel". It also is one of the few that have the mirror mount built into it (plugged off in some years and not drilled in others). Not only that but they have adjustable levers too! Combined with a good set of braided hoses and it makes a big difference in the brakes.

Sean Morley

 

my experience in going from a 5/8 to a 14mm was bad news, the lever hit the grip before enough fluid was pushed to get real strong braking, the lever was milled to get max travel, that helped but it still wasn't right
the 5/8 moves about 13% more fluid

 

13% +/- 1.5 % error most likely. I wish you would be more precise. (yuk yuk)

 

You may have needed to switch over to stainless lines. This should have worked great when done. I even make adapters for the old max forks to convert the 2 piston calipers over to 6 piston version removed from Huyabusa's. That makes a huge difference in braking power even with stock lines and masters.

Sean

 

one2dmax:
now ya went and did it, ya got me thinking
you have a picture of those adapters and a price ?

 

First off I have to apologize! I am so geared towards my normal bikes I work on I forgot where I was posting! I refer to them as "Max'es" as in V-MAX! Obviously some might refer to their Maxims in the same way - whoops!

Here's a link to one of the sets I made for a customer:

http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=3200

I haven't checked to see what can be done on the Maxim yet. I have a 80 or 81 650 maxim and a 83 seca turbo I can look at (If I get time).

The adapters for the Hayabusa calipers also used later model Vmax or R1 rotors. All of was a simple bolt on. I have another set of adapters for the early Vmax forks that use the stock rotors and allows for 4 piston Tokico calipers (older gsxr's and others).

Sean