New fuse

http://www.basspro.com/webapp/wcs/store ... rchResults

check out this fuse box..I believe it will work for us...plus is expandable.

 

this is not for our use.
There is onlu ONE power input.
There needs to be one input for every fuse,

 

that's what I thought

 

Why would you need separate inputs to the fuse box?
This looks like a great fuse box. Would give you an excuse to tidy up the crappy harness that came with the bike. Plenty of room for expansion. Add an accessory or two if you want. Heated grips and a 12V outlet to charge your mp3 player?

 

My response is visual. This is the original, with a total of Eight wires.


This is the "prospective" replacement, with only one hookup lead to the power.(the post)

 

Nice picture. Shows my point exactly. Get rid of those four wires coming in (useless in my opinion) and you're on your way to an electrical circuit that is much easier to diagnose.

 

If this will indeed work I am all ears.
I was under the impression that this was not the way to go.
I have several unused sets laying around.
And still have the stocker fusebox

 

Well....I dont see why you cant have a 12volt going to that fuse box from the battery, and simply run everything from that box.... it would possibly eliminate the whole crappy wiring harness. :twisted:

 

It does work Dark Angel, but you have to do a lot more than that to 'eliminate' the whole crappy wiring harness. But it is a start.

 

Wish mine looked as good as Ass.Fault's. PO tore everything up. Spliced wires then put in in-line fuses. Can anyone recommend the right fuse block for my 82 750 maxim?

 

The one we're talking about on this thread is really nice. There is one that is less expensive that a lot of guys on this forum use. Just search the forums for fuse box. You'll find a good How to written by gamaru I believe.

 

Heres Gamuru's Fusebox HowTo
http://www.xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=6350.html

 

you would really be better off getting the block with separate circuits
you could get away with two circuits, but the main really needs it's own, without a lot of rewiring
the more things that combined the harder trouble shooting gets and accessories have to be thought out carefully, the alternator just ain't got much to spare
and the separate circuit one is cheaper

 

You mean easier to trouble shoot don't you?
With one line in you have just eliminated an entire leg of the circuit.

 

Checked out Gamuru's Fusebox HowTo. I may have to solder pigtails to existing wires since they were all cut and crimp spliced with the in-lines added.

Looks simple and sweet.

Thanks

 

After you're done with that you should go through the rest of Gamaru's How-To's

 

what's nicer than this, and cheap.

 

That's an excellent job wizard. Looks better than stock.

 

no i mean harder, if there are say ten things powered from one fuse and it blows, where is the problem ? ten things to check
now if the same ten things powered from five fuses.....two things to check
your turn signals shouldn't take out your headlight, and headlight shouldn't effect the ignition

 

But that's not what we have here. We have the same amount of fuses going to the same amount of circuits. What's different is you would only have one positive lead from the battery to the fuse box. Therefore it would be easier to troubleshoot. No power to any circuit means battery dead, or lead screwed. No power to one circuit means the check the fuse, the the circuit past the fuse box. With a common positive you don't have the chance of frying each individual positive lead thereby removing that leg of the loop from your troubleshooting sequence.

So you mean easier.

The benefit of having separate positive leads is that you won't lose all power if you fry the common.

 

well after looking at the circuit (xj750j)the head,signal and ignition are on a buss, no problem here, you could eliminate two wires. The problem is when the main is put on the same buss the key will only shut off the head and tail lights and no key would be needed to start it
now if a separate inline was used for the main that would free up another fuse for accessories and the key would still work

 

this is all true guys.....Wizard that is a sweet job that you did to your bikes fuse panel. I like that...how did you do you it..

 

Re: Fuse boxes, the main on the 750's is a 30 amp rather than a 20 Amp main on the 650, so you should be sure the fuse box you use on a 750 is rated to handle at least 65 Amps. That would be the main + the 3 other fuses and 5 Amps to spare..........

 

Does anyone know what if any power there is to spare from the alternator. I was thinking of adding extra driving lights to the front. I do not want to overload the alternator or drain the battery.

Thanks,
Michael

 

In a perfect world you can get 19 Amps out of your alternator. If you want to add extra power draining items to your bike do the math. Calculate all your potential power drain in Watts and divide by 12 (for Volts) and That gives you your amp draw. For example (FYI: These numbers are not correct):

Headlight 55W
Brake Light 35W
Signal Light 25W
Coils 100W
Horn 10W

Total 225W
divide by 12
potential of 18.75Amps


It doesn't take much to get up to your limit. If you wanted to add am extra driving light you may be able to get away with it. If you do the calculation and you're on the edge you could retrofit your signals and tail light with LED's. That would give you a sufficient power decrease to do your addition.

Get the manual out and find out what the electrical power consumption is. Then go from there.

 

it's just a standard upgrade, but i didn't like all the wires exposed, so i found something plastic that could be trimed as a cover. see before pic'.