XJ700 valve cover gasket

Is there a torque sequence for my valve cover gasket? What is the proper torque? Thanks!

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There appears to be no specific sequence for tightening the bolts; the service manual says (in the section about reassembling the engine) merely to add the Cylinder Head Cover, Bolts, and spark plugs. The torque specs are 7.2 ft-lb for the valve cover, 14 ft-lb for the spark plugs.

 

Thanks Schmuck!

 

I would still start in the middle and work my way out in a spiral.

 

I was thinking the opposite; start at the outside and work my way in, alternating bolts like you do when putting a tire back on. First, barely snug them up, then going down to the final torque setting.

 

A good question would be why this way or that way?
I am falling back on the old method of intake manifold torquing (V8s ROCK).
I'm curious Schmuck, what is your angle/experience?

 

I'm an MDT Toyota technician for 14 years now, and I ALWAYS work inside to out. Alternating sides.

It is important to follow these rules.

 

Which way would be a good question indeed.

No special reason... I just got it in my head somehow that was the way it should be done. As you seem to have more working experience with that sort of thing, I'll defer to your wisdom.

 

I don't see where this is my wisdom, it has been taught as "the way" to a lot of folks. I remember this step from high school shop class and my dad. I wouldn't mind finding out why. I'll do some research and let ya'll know what I find.
By the by, for valve covers I make three passes. Initial is finger tight (I use an allen wrench for this and 1 finger), followed by 5 ft/lbs and again with a final pass at 7.2 ft/lbs. To get the inboard bolts, I torque an outside bolt to spec and then, using the allen wrench, I "feel" what that torque feels like and then mimic that "feel" on the inboard bolts. It's not perfect but until they come up with a torque wrench with a head under 1/2" thick, I'm out of ideas without removing the engine.

 

Three passes(gradual increase in torque)is the best way to avoid any possible warping of any said piece of metal being tightened down.

 

3 passes starting from the center and working your way out in a circular motion is the correct way to do it.

Just a note regarding the torque wrench... There is an inch-lbs torque wrench small enough, you just have to find one and convert the inch-lbs to ft-lbs. That's what i did with my SECA the last time i replaced the valve cover gasket. Now i'm working on rebuilding the motor. Which i need more torque specs for. lol ie.. head bolts, crankcase bolts etc.. ~SIN~