Fuse Panel Poll -- Yes, No, Will, Won't???

Give us an idea how helpful the site is by answering the poll.

I've had my new Fuse Panel in for two years and am electrically trouble free!

 

Yes I replaced mine, but I did wait until the main fuse holder broke and left me sitting on the side of the highway for a while. Now I know how all those Harley riders feel!

 

Bold statement!
See if that same line works at the Doc's office next time! 8O

 

If you're sticking with the old glass fuses... it's simple electronics and physics... the glass fuses are bound together by flimsy slice of metal that will bounce around and flex... you can listen to the noise it makes by flicking it with your finger.. all you need to do is hit a good pothole and let the fuse break itself or bend enough to restrict flow and "pop" itself.. if you plan on keeping these then carry alot of spares and expect problems.. not only that.. but if it does blow.. chance are that it will in the middle... however.. if it breaks at the end then you can't visually see it.. you would have to grab a multimeter and ohm it out, wasting your time and probably pulling your hair out by this time

 

Did mine after finding two wires soldered straight onto the fuse as the holder was missing. They are cheap to buy, if you get the six block you can have two spares easy to hand and blade uses can be bought at any automotive place.

 

Mine had inline fuses when I got it from the PO... on two lines, the other two were wire twisted together. When I tried to pull the inline (glass) fuses apart to check them one simply snapped at the metal end and left itself in the holder. Switched to inline blade type because I'm too impatient to wait on a block from the web.

 

my 1981 550 maxim got new inline fuse holders (for ATC fuses) in 1991 before the fuse block upgrade was the thing to do...

i didnt have any way of labeling them at the time so i put mailing labels on them with which circuit they are. ill get pics one day and IF photobucket will ever work again, i will post them...

i did the seca this week since it was too cold for me to ride...

 

I did mine a few years ago when I first got the bike. The fuses were shot and all cobbled together by the P.O. It made a big difference. I had a pic in my gallery but I deleted it accidentally.

 

The several comments here serve to answer the question of why it is so important to make this upgrade as quickly as you can.

 

Because like the leaking Petcock ... there has been a spike in people having Electrical and Electrical related "No Starts"

I'm getting alot of traffic in my PM's about what to do. I'm recommending that the Fuse Panel gets replaced by everybody who hasn't ddone it yet. It seems like the Moon is rising on these Fuse Panels and if you haven't done it ... it's time to consider getting it done.

I'd like to have the prevent get done before the Summer gets rolling and we start having a bunch of people with No Headlights, No Brake lights and Starting Issues asking about what they should do.

The smart thing to do is replace the Fuse Panel instead of waiting for trouble.

 

unless it looks like this replace it

 

What kind of grease is that? Doesn't di-electric grease, the stuff of spark plug boots, NOT conduct electricity?
What grease goes in other "bullet, male / female" connectors?
What to do about the "plastic on plastic, multi - terminal" connectors?
How are we cleaning these contacts? Emery board? Dental pick? Fine sand paper? a Chemical?. . . this would be good info !

 

The old fusebox when I got my 900 was held together by what could be nothing else except the equivalent of surface tension. Hit a decent bump in the road and you could be in trouble.

Replaced my fuse box with a 4 unit blade type fuse box. Absolutely perfect ever since except for one occasion which took me half a day to diagnose. Yep...looked everywhere as to why the bike was not starting...reason - a fine itty bitty minute hairline crack in the main blade fuse. I also keep a few spares taped in a small plastic bag under my seat just in case, on the road somewhere, in a cold misty forest road miles from home...

 

when I first got my 550, the fuse box looked ok. No visible corrosion, fuses were good. The day I actually fired it up for the first time (you shoulda seen the grin on my face), I realized just how bad the fuse box really was. I could just bump a fuse with my finger and the whole circuit would die. I tried to bend the clips closer together, and they just started breaking off.

Needless to say, the fuse box was replaced the next day.

 

The fuse box on the #1 650 is in pretty decent shape, though I already have the blade block to replace it. Mainly just need some time to get in there and rip and replace. Apparently, the ignition circuit has already been bypassed into an inline glass fuse holder. Heh.

The #2 650 doesn't have much in the way of electrics on it at all. That's why it's a parts bike.

The 750's electrical system is a total wreck. Even before I knew about the blade box replacement, the first thing I did when I got the bike was pull the seat and look at the wiring. Holy crap! What a mess! What wasn't hardwired together was rusted or ripped out, and some other circuit with an inline tube fuse had been added, and then ripped apart. The box is more rust than anything else. I'm going to have to tear the electrics down to their bare minimum and bypass some things more carefully when I finally get to working on it so I don't put too much money into it before testing the engine.

By the way, the "no" and "won't" answers to this survey are kinda redundant.

 

Problem I had was finding fuses.... The fusebox was in perect condition but I had real fun finding replacement fuses so swapped it out for blade fuses and problem was solved

 

I want to one of these days, but my old school box still seems to be decent. I have had ZERO blown fuses or any other problems in the year or so I've had the bike. So other things are higher on the list...

 

Hi Rick O,
This is my fuse panel, would you replace it?

 

Yes. I would replace it. The Problem is those Fuse Clips. They are a point of resistance. That Fuse Panel is obsilite. Why not treat your Bike to a more reliable Fuse Panel and never have to worry about that one suddenly failing on you and ruining an adventure.

I'm sure it looks good.
But, those Fuse pinching Clips will break without warning and leave you in a lurch.

I cut one out that cleaned-up nicely; too.
Coming from ME its sound advice because I'm a "Keep them stock" kinda guy who doesn't DO Mods and chopping.

But, I know those Fuse Panels.
I know the Fuel Tanks
I know there's dirty gas.
I know Alternator Brushes wear out.

Think of it a Preventative Maintenance.

 

If mine is indicative of what the rest of them are like I say replace it. I'm not as hard over as Rick on keeping things stock but I am judicious about what mods I do and I would recommend this to anybody.

Just like others have reported, I had "ghost type" electrical problems several years ago. The box looked good, but I found that when I put my meter on the fuses, my problems went away. My meter probe was making the connection between the fuse holder and the fuse better. When I tried to tighten up the tangs of the fuse holders they started breaking on me.

I actually put my bike in a ditch one night when I lost my headlight due to a bad connection at the fuse block.

It's junk. If it hasn't caused problems it will.

 

OK. So since we are all in agreement that replacing the glass fuse block is a good idea, i have a question based mainly out of being a cheap'O.
Instead of replacing the fuse block does anyone have anythoughs on replacing the block with individual in-line ATC fusees for each circut. Mainly i ask because i can't seem to find a block to fit in the factory location and i already have some in-line fuse holders on hand.
Thoughs on functionality because asteticlly its horid but if it'll work...

 

Same question.

 

I'm sure I am way in the minority here, but after having one of the clips break (headlight, night, freeway) I contacted a company called LittleFuse here in Dallas, went to their building, bought all new clips and replaced them in the original box. Had to rewire, of course, but you have to do that with a new box anyway. I removed the wire from the old clips carefully, so as to not need to cut the wire. A bit tedious but there wasn't much extra wire to work with. That was several years ago and all is well, so far.

 

Some have done that. The XJCD has a method for doing this, with a twist -- take two sheets of metal, cut slots in one of them for the fuse holders to go through, then use the other piece of metal to keep the holders in place using standoffs. If you cut the one piece of metal right, you can mount the assembly in the existing screw holes on the air filter cover.

Mine ended up looking kinda ratty, but it works.

 

Haven't done anything to it yet, but after reading this forum I think I will as soon as I can...

 

I just replaced the stock fuse box on the 650 with chacal's blade-type fuse box. I was stunned at how much the previous rig had been, well, RIGGED. There was electrical tape and crappy splices everywhere. It was a nightmare that would take a whole page to describe.

I'll post pics of the NEW rig. I had to cut into the insulation on the wiring harness to get some extra wire slack, but I was able to remove all the junk, crimp and shrink on some new connectors, and attach the new fuse panel. Works like a champ! And no more fiddling with delicate, crumbling fuse boxes!

Did the 750 the same way, but I need to get a different panel for it, since it requires a larger (30A) main fuse. Chacal sells them with the decals already on.

 

i used four single inline mini fuse holders the ones that are covered with a rubber flip top they seem to be working fine

 

Have not done mine yet, but for sure will. Just ridding the other day about 1 mile into it, the motor stopped running and i had to coast to the curb. Turned the key off and on several times and the neutral light came back on. Not sure if its the ignition switch or something with the crappy fuses. Never has happened before in the last 9 years. I was fine for the next 40 miles after that, but now worry the next time i go out.

 

davexj sounds like loose wires or connections

 

The Ignition fuse is only used for starting the bike, I think. Someone correct me if that is wrong. I don't think that fuse is in front of the coils.

If the Neutral light and/or brake light didn't come on, you either have bad wiring in the lock, a bad main fuse, or bad wiring in between. The Neutral light and the brake light depend ONLY on the main fuse, the main switch (key lock), the battery, and the wiring harness.

Loose or faulty ground wire could explain it.

 

DO IT!!!!!!
Just after I bought my XJ, I had problems with the 20a. main circuit.

It is fun and well worth the mod to do. I found a ATO box that has the fuse holders where I could solder the harness DIRECTLY to the fuse holder terminal.

 

Finished up this little project yesterday. Ended up soldering 4 inline fuse holders in and shrink wrapping the connections becuase i was still having trouble finding a blade fuse box that would fit in the stock location. I might try to make a box to put the holders in to make it look a bit better.
While i was doing this i noticed the stock wireing was a bit brittle and i had to fix a couple of not so pretty wire twisting/splices on some other wires under the seat. I didnt track them down i just soldered and shrink wrapped them but i was wondering if "new" harnesses are being produced or are my only options to try and find a "good" used one on flea-bay or rewire the whole thing myself. some of the other wireing i have seen seems pretty suspect.

 

Owned her for 20 years, never replaced a fuse in fact only time I go in there is to service air filter. Anyway, this morning no headlights fuse box looks fine but will replace this weekend and work from there. Appreciate all the posts hopefully made this troubleshooting almost effortless.

Steve

 

Here they are!:


FUSEBOXES, FUSEHOLDERS, AND FUSES:


COMMENTS: your stock fusebox was marginal, at best, and that was 20+ years ago. Replacing it with a modern style fuse panel or in-line fuse holders such as the styles listed below will prevent frustrating, expensive, and potentially dangerous electrical system problems for years to come.

The following models used a fusebox utilizing four "glass tube" AGC fuses with one 20A main fuse, and three 10A fuses for the ignition, turn signal, and headlight circuits: all XJ550 models, all XJ650 models, 1983 XJ750 Maxim and XJ750 Midnight Maxim models, and the main fusebox on XJ1100 models.

These models used a fusebox utilizing four "glass tube" AGC fuses that contained one 30A main fuse, and three 10A fuses for the ignition, turn signal, and headlight circuits: 1982 XJ750 Maxim model, all XJ750 Seca models, and the XJ900RK.

In addition, the following models used a separate single "glass tube" 5A AGC fuse, within its own small in-line holder, for the computerized gauge cluster: all XJ650 Turbo models, 1982 XJ750 Maxim, and all XJ750 Seca models.

XJ700 models used two separate fuse panels: one that contained the four seondary circuits, including two 10A fuses, and two 15A fuses, which is located within the instrument warning lights panel; and the 30A main circuit fuse panel was located under the seat. These bikes used the later push-in style ATC fuses in the dash fuse panel from the factory; the 30A main circuit fuses were still the older "glass tube" AGC style fuses.

XJ1100 models also used two separate fuse panels: one that contained the four seondary circuits, including one 20A fuse, and three 10A fuses, and which is located behind the right side panel; the 30A main circuit fuse panel was located under the seat.

FITMENT: the stock Yamaha fusebox is very flat...less than an inch tall. These aftermarket fuseblocks are quite a bit taller, and therefore may present some challenges and the need for some creative engineering to place them properly. We offer the following tips:

XJ550 models (all): the stock fusebox lays on top of the "tool kit caddy", and the forward "arms" of this caddy hold both the TCI (on the right side) and the fusebox (on the left side). These aftermarket fuseboxes will not fit in the same place as the stock fusebox, as the increased height will cause interference with the bottom of the seat pan. The best fit can be obtained by carefully cutting away a portion of the left tool caddy "arm", so that the replacement fusebox can be attached to the top of the air filter housing. Careful positioning of the fusebox will allow you to remove a minimal amount of the tool caddy arm material, thus retaining the structural strength of that arm. The replacement fusebox should them be retaining to the top of the air filter box via two self-tapping screws, or proper sized bolts and nuts.

XJ650 all models (except Turbo) and all XJ750 models: the stock fusebox lays on top of the air cleaner box lid. The replacement fuseblock can go in the same area, but some care must be taken as to positioning to make sure that the bottom of the seat pan does not contact the top of clear cover of the fuseblock. You will have to slightly reposition the fuseblock from the original moutning holes to get everything to line up properly.

XJ650 Turbo models: not yet verified.

XJ700 models: these bikes already use the push-in type fuses in a fusepanel located under the dash warning lights by the gauge cluster. Therefore these replacement 6-circuit fuseboxes are not needed on these bikes. However, the main 30-amp glass fuses and holder could benefit from the addition of the ATC in-line fuse holders.

XJ900 models: not yet verified.

XJ1100 models: not yet verified.






q) Replacement FUSEBOX, enclosed, weatherproof 6-circuit ATC (mini push-in blade style) fusebox....the style that everyone recommends using. Includes 6 ATC standard fuses, 2 x 20A or 2 x 30A (depending on your model), and 4 x 10A. Two more circuits than a stock fusebox allows you to add extra circuits for heated grips, cigarette lighter, headlight relays, etc. Size: 4" long x 1-1/8" wide (not including spade terminals) x 1-1/2" tall (including the clear, see-through cover). Note that this is a "side-terminal" design...the male wire terminal spades point outwards (away) from the sides of the fusebox.


HCP378BC Replacement FUSEBOX, 6-circuit design, comes with a full set of standard style ATC push-in style fuses (4 x 10A, and 2 x 20A), for all XJ550, all XJ650, 1983 XJ750 Maxim and XJ750 Midnight Maxim, and XJ1100 models.
$ 13.00

HCP378LF Replacement FUSEBOX, 6-circuit with a full set of glow-when-blown indicator style ATC push-in style fuses (4 x 10A, and 2 x 20A), XJ550, all XJ650, 1983 XJ750 Maxim and XJ750 Midnight Maxim, and XJ1100 models.
$ 16.00


HCP7153BC Replacement FUSEBOX, 6-circuit design, comes with a full set of standard style ATC push-in style fuses (4 x 10A, and 2 x 30A), for all XJ750 Seca, 1982 XJ750 Maxim, and XJ900RK models.
$ 13.00

HCP7153LF Replacement FUSEBOX, 6-circuit with a full set of glow-when-blown indicator style ATC push-in style fuses (4 x 10A, and 2 x 30A), for all XJ750 Seca, 1982 XJ750 Maxim, and XJ900RK models.
$ 16.00


nnn) Circuit ID Decal for the above 6-circuit HCP378BC fusebox. Printed on a clear adhesive backed long-life decal material, this decal specifies (in white print) the circuit "name" (MAIN, HEAD, TURN, IGN.), the fuse amp rating of each circuit, and the wire lead color code (RED, R/Y, BRN, R/W) so you can have the same circuit ID info on your replacement fusebox as on your original. Applies to the outside of the HCP378BC clear fusebox cover. The two empty circuit positions are titled "SPARE".

HCP393 Replacement HCP378xx fusebox 6-circuit I.D. Decal, with 20A main fuse labelling, for all XJ550, all XJ650, 1983 XJ750 Maxim and XJ750 Midnight Maxim, and XJ1100 models.
$ 4.00

HCP7152 Replacement HCP7153xx fusebox 6-circuit I.D. Decal, with 30A main fuse labeling, for all XJ750 Seca, 1982 XJ750 Maxim, and XJ900RK models.
$ 4.00


u7) Bottom Gasket for the above HCP378xx or HCP7153xx series 6-circuit fuseboxes. The fusebox has an "open" bottom, which would allow moisture and, eventually, corrosion to get into this otherwise sealed fuseblock. This die cut 1/16" rubber gasket has pre-punched mounting holes.

HCP382 Replacement 6-circuit fusebox Bottom Gasket:
$ 3.50




r) Replacement FUSEBOX, enclosed, weatherproof 8-circuit ATC (mini push-in blade style) fusebox. Same as the HCP378 fusebox above, but with two extra slots for a total of 8 circuits, in case you need to add even more circuits. Includes a total of eight ATC push-in style fuses, 2 x 20A and 6 x 10A.

Size: 4-1/2" long x 1-1/8" wide (not including the wire terminal spades) x 1-5/8" tall (including the clear cover). Note that this is a "bottom-terminal" design...the male spades point down towards the base of the fusebox, rayjer than out the sides. THIS FEATURE CAN MAKE THE INSTALLATION OF THIS FUSEBOX TRICKY ON THESE BIKES, and the additional height of this box can cause interference problems between the fusebox cover and the bottom of the seat pan on some models.

HCP379BC Replacement FUSEBOX, 8-circuit with a full set of standard style ATC push-in style fuses (6 x 10A, and 2 x 20A).
$ 15.00

HCP379LF Replacement FUSEBOX, 8-circuit with a full set of "glow-when-blown" indicator style ATC push-in style fuses (6 x 10A, and 2 x 20A).
$ 18.00



rf1) Aftermarket replacement individual IN-LINE FUSE HOLDER, heavy-duty waterproof style features a snap-close cap and accepts the standard or "glow-when-blown" type ATC/ATO push-in style fuses.

NOTE: on all XJ models, the original fusebox uses a 20A fuse for the main circuit, and 10A fuses for the headlight, turn signals, and ignition circuits. Upgrading to a larger capacity fuse HOLDER poses no problems or issues, but NEVER use a larger fuse than the original rated capacity of a circuit (regardless of what "size" fuseholder you use on the circuit).

HCP7122 aftermarket standard in-Line FUSE HOLDER, solid colored thermoplastic housing, 6" long, 16-gauge wire leads, 10A capacity, each:
$ 2.50


HCP6833 aftermarket standard in-Line FUSE HOLDER, solid colored thermoplastic housing, 6" long, 12-gauge wire leads, 30A capacity, each:
$ 2.75

HCP6833SET4 aftermarket standard in-Line FUSE HOLDER, solid colored thermoplastic housing, set of 4:
$ 9.00


HCP6834 aftermarket see-through in-Line FUSE HOLDER, designed to be used with the "glow-when-blown" fuses, 4" long, 12-gauge wire leads, 20A capacity, each:
$ 7.50

HCP6834SET4 aftermarket see-through in-Line FUSE HOLDER, set of 4:
$ 27.00



rf2) Aftermarket replacement ATC/ATO FUSES, for use with the above 6- or 8-circuit replacement fuseboxes or the in-line fuseholders. Both the standard style and "Glow-When-Blown" fuses are high quality products that meet or exceed current vehicle manufacturer specifications.


HCP7149 aftermarket standard type 5A ATC/ATO (orange) push-in FUSE, each:
$ 0.75

HCP7149SET5 aftermarket standard type 5A ATC/ATO (orange) push-in FUSES, set of 5:
$ 2.50


HCP381 aftermarket standard type 10A ATC/ATO (red) push-in FUSE, each:
$ 0.75

HCP381SET5 aftermarket standard type 10A ATC/ATO (red) push-in FUSES, set of 5:
$ 2.50


HCP7150 aftermarket standard type 15A ATC/ATO (blue) push-in FUSE, each:
$ 0.75

HCP7150SET5 aftermarket standard type 15A ATC/ATO (blue) push-in FUSES, set of 5:
$ 2.50


HCP380 aftermarket standard type 20A ATC/ATO (yellow) push-in FUSE, each:
$ 0.75

HCP380SET5 aftermarket standard type 20A ATC/ATO (yellow) push-in FUSES, set of 5:
$ 2.50


HCP7151 aftermarket standard type 30A ATC/ATO (green) push-in FUSE, each:
$ 0.75

HCP7151SET5 aftermarket standard type 30A ATC/ATO (green) push-in FUSES, set of 5:
$ 2.50


The following are innovative "Glow-When Blown" ATC/ATO mini-fuses that incoporate a small, bright indicator light that activates when the fuse blows, thus making the identification of a disrupted circuit easy to spot:

HCP7147 aftermarket "glow-when-blown" type 5A ATC/ATO (tan) push-in FUSE, each:
$ 1.25

HCP7147SET5 aftermarket "glow-when-blown" type 5A ATC/ATO (tan) push-in FUSE, set of 5:
$ 4.50


HCP6832 aftermarket "glow-when-blown" type 10A ATC/ATO (red) push-in FUSE, each:
$ 1.25

HCP6832SET5 aftermarket "glow-when-blown" type 10A ATC/ATO (red) style push-in FUSE, set of 5:
$ 4.50


HCP7148 aftermarket "glow-when-blown" type 15A ATC/ATO (blue) push-in FUSE, each:
$ 1.25

HCP7148SET5 aftermarket "glow-when-blown" type 15A ATC/ATO (blue) push-in FUSE, set of 5:
$ 4.50


HCP6831 aftermarket "glow-when-blown" type 20A ATC/ATO (yellow) style push-in FUSE, each:
$ 1.25

HCP6831SET5 aftermarket "glow-when-blown" type 20A ATC/ATO (yellow) style push-in FUSE, set of 5:
$ 4.50


HCP7146 aftermarket "glow-when-blown" type 30A ATC/ATO (green) push-in FUSE, each:
$ 1.25

HCP7146SET5 aftermarket "glow-when-blown" type 30A ATC/ATO (green) push-in FUSE, set of 5:
$ 4.50

 

I think this mess qualifies for an up grade.
The problem is, I probably won't get it done for quite awhille since I recently became disabled. Had back surgery on my L/4-L/5 lumbar disks, and now have something attacking my entire central nervous system.
So, I can't ride or fix it yet. New 2 car garage should be done by early fall, so she'll at least be ready for next year.

 

Usually this mess it stuffed down beide the airbox where you see the connector, I just pulled them up for the pictures. The brown wire is my 30amp line, and the inline fuse holder is loose, so it has to be stuffed in tight so I don't lose my power.
Did'ny know how I was going to fix it until I found chacals list. I ordered the new 6-cicuit fusebox for it, and also a new head gashet with all the bolt sealing washers. Boy does he have fast service. 4 days from order to receiving. But with my condition it won't get fixed for awhile, can't ride for this year anyway.

 

replaced mine and kissed all my electrical gremlins bye bye.

 

Chacal,
I just picked up a beautiful 81 Seca 750 but the fuse block is trashed. I think you recommend

"HCP7153BC Replacement FUSEBOX, 6-circuit design, comes with a full set of standard style ATC push-in style fuses (4 x 10A, and 2 x 30A), for all XJ750 Seca, 1982 XJ750 Maxim, and XJ900RK models.
$ 13.00"

Does this fit well under the seat and where can I locate one?

Thanks,

 

put in inline fuses and with a rubber cap over them after i put a solo seat on

 

Cole....the HCP7153 fusebox kit should fit on top of the airbox on all 750's, and it will be a tight fit to insure that the bottom of the seat pan doesn't hit the top of the fusebox cover. You may have to move it around in to a couple of different positions to see where the clearance is greatest.

 

Thanks, Chacal. Do you have these available or know where I can find one? If you have them, I will get it from you in addition to a couple other things I need for the bike.

 

Hey Cole....yes, I do have them in stock!!!

 

Thanks, Chacal. Look for PM.

 

MY old fuse panel is melted. The wiring was redone and looks like curly from three stooges redid it. I am in the process of redoing the entire thing and will
definitely be upgrading it.

 

I just picked up an '83 XJ650 in great running condition but needs a fuse panel.Chacal,I've also PM'd you regarding buying one.Thanks for the great site,I think I'll be a frequent visitor.

 

I was coming home from a 40 mile trip on a paved country road. I was doing about 65 when the fuses blew. No headlights, no speedo lights but she kept on running. No street lights too, but there was a few deer around. I stopped at a church parking lot. The original fuse box was on at the time. I looked and did not have 2 fuses or clips. 2 of them had just disintigrated. (clips and all) Bottom line, I replaced everything with inlines and packed spares in there too.

Result, brighter headlights, no turn signal delay when stopping and no blown fuses.

 

You mean the way to fix it is not to just splice all of the wires together and take the fuses completely out? Yes, this is what the P.O. did to my bike. The bike ran when I got it, but I just started it to check on things already planning on taking it apart. And once I got it apart, OH YEAH! The P.O. definately took all but the main fuse out and spliced all of the wires! I saw on one of the threads here (maybe from Chacal) a replacement setup for the old style fuse block. On my old '81 that I had, started intermittently cutting out, so I had to. Put in ATC in line "mini fuses" as a quick fix, but it worked very well. But now that I have XJ bikes as a good reference, I plan on doing it the right way and making it permanent.

 

Got my new fuse panel and all the goodies to go with it on order.Thanks chacal!

 

I'll be putting in DC breakers after I get into the book and find out what the fuse values are supposed to be.

I suspect the fuses in there now are random sized glass fuses that "worked without blowing" stuck in by one of the DPO's.

Using breakers eliminates the need to carry spare fuses.

I've been slowly doing this to my Air Cooled VW's to get away from the corrosion prone "copper capped ceramic" Euro fuses.
Having to remember to spin the fuses before every start up to ensure good contact starts to suck a bit.

 

Circuit Breakers Could be a big headache.

I went to RS to get a cheap one until I can afford a good blade type.