Using copper fuel line? and leather side covers

I have always admired the fuel system of the old triumphs. I was wondering if anyone has used copper fuel lines before. I was thinking about using a copper pipe for mine and I came across an old automotive glass bowl fuel filter that I want to tie in. I dont know how to attach it to the carbs and petcock though after I bend it into shape. I was thinking about using a short piece of rubber fuel line at each end. I was also thinking about using some leather stretched across the frame. Any interest or suggestions on any of the two would be appreciated.

 

the way the picture shows won't work for the XJ's...
since they're gravity fet, not enough fuel reaches the carbs while climbing up against gravity.

if you manage to keep the lowest part of the fuelpipe above the fuel level within the bowls (float level) there should be no problem

 

The Triumph is gravity fed also- - it will work.
Vibration is the enemy of custom fuel line set-ups.
The tank moves, the carbs move, relative to the frame, which is what you mount the filter to.
The loop in the line changes it's vibration frequency.
I've had car fires due to my fuel line creativity. I now use brand new rubber. Good luck.

 

Very cool idea. I think you should go for it.

 

you could run the fuel line all the way to the bottom of the frame and back up and it would still work, as long as the line never goes ABOVE the fuel level you are OK.

i think copper looks AWESOME.........but be prepared to keep up with polishing it, it will tarnish QUICKLY!

im not sure what you are thinking of doing with the leather...but im interested. is there a pic you could post, or maybe describe it better?

 

For the the leather Im not exactly sure. I see people making their own side covers out of metal and i think it looks better without the stock ones . I was thinking about kind of the same thing just with leather maybe cutting a shape just a bit smaller then the area between the frame where the original fit and using some thin leather lace to kind of sew the leather and the frame together. I dont have any pictures right now. Ill look around for some.
Thanks for the input.

 

As a thought - considering the vibration that is the primary enemy when using rigid metal lines, what about using braided fuel lines instead?

That way you get the benefit of a flexible synthetic fuel hose, with the nice metal outer layer - and I'm pretty sure you can get them in copper as well.

 

i think the vibes will be no problem if the hard line has a flexible coupling and the coil, im just thinking of all the hard lines on the big diesels that vibrate MUCH worse then any bike.

 

Tagged so I can follow this! I am very interested in seeing this what this looks like completed (especially with the glass fuel filter)!

 

I'd be more worried about copper thieves... they think it looks awesome, too.

 

we just had $2000 worth stolen off a job (lightning rods and cabling)......bastards!

 

Alright I appologise for taking so long but I have finally finished both the copper fuel line and the leather side covers. I will take a few more final pictures in the next couple days. It got dark when I finished so I could get and good ones.
Hope all are well
Andrew

 

SWEET! 8) I can't wait! Did you work in the glass fuel filter?

 

I like the leather side cover idea. I already fabricated my own side covers out of aluminum and painted them to match the tank. But I could always glue (Goop) some leather onto them. I have a large sheet of seat material left over out in the shop and may just have to see what it looks like with it on the side covers.
I have already thought of hard sided saddlebags with a leather cover over them. That way I wouldn't need to be so concerned about scratches or how to keep the paint shiny on them.

 

After all is done I finally get a working camera. Alright here are the pictures of the copper fuel line. I will be making a new one when I can figure out how to mount the glass filter. Also pics of my first attempt at leather side covers. My first time sewing leather. And pictures of my new intake.
Enjoy.

Copyright,
Andrew Miles Conisbee Wood
(July 15th, 2008)
All Rights Reserved.

 

VERY nice looking! I have to confess I am not understanding the point of connecting the carbs then restricting them to one pod?

 

nice!

 

I just didnt want the air box. I love the look of pods just dont want the hassle of rejetting and all that. And I wanted something to do I was bord.
Thanks for the comment.
Andrew

 

As shown rejetting was not require? Are you 3 turns out? I want to do the same thing but I was thinking about using two pods and big copper fittings instead of PVC. Do you think one is enough and two is too many?

 

Rejetting was not required for me. A couple of days ago I just drilled out the mixture screw plugs and found them all over the place and even one all the way closed, I put them at two turns since they used corse thread on 82 screws(needless to say it runs a lot better but I havent had time to play with the settings). I wanted to use copper fittings just couldnt find any arround here I saw the topic about look ma no carbs and thought it looked really nice. I used one pod because the tube it was on was about the same size as the air box opening and I think it is plenty of air moving through there. In my opinion I would say 2 would be too many without changing something but I would love to see it if you do make it send me some pics.
Thanks kciv good luck
Andrew

 

I think your PVC Manifold is brilliant. If you are able to match the area of the Stock Airbox to your set-up ... you might find yourself being able to get the usual problems associated with multiple Pods solved and be able to do some fine tuning.

Protect your Intellectual Property.
This is the kind of Idea others take and run with.
Copyright and Patent Pending your ideas and designs.

Copper is pretty when shined and polished.
I don't think I'd use the Glass Fuel Filter.

Unless you are into Nostalgia rather than Performance.
Those glass filters leak.
They're 1950's technology.
Cute; but hazardous.

Rather than have it loosen and leak ... I'd depend on a 20th Century Model that can't come apart!

I'm serious about protecting your Intellectual Property.
There are "Good Idea Thieves" surfing for an Idea like this.
Now that I have seen a good prototype ... I can imagine two or three ways to restrict the Intake Air to Stock Cubic Feet per Minute.

 

I think this might just save the problems i been having!! great idea... can you tell me what u used for the boots from the pvc to the carbs... i'll go to home depot tomorrow to get my bike on the road.. thank you

 

i thought about doing something like that for my intake... can you post what pvc parts you used? everything looks killer btw

 

LOL's & points ^ at the other posts.

it is a good idea i had thought about doing this but i was concerned at max temp that the PVC my begin to soften or even melt.

as for the guy asking about copper why not use Stainless Steel it could match your motor.

 

hi andrew, why don't you take the inlet pipe right to the back of the bike, jazz it up with the pod on the tail? wiz.

 

I never even thought of that. Once I get my seat mounted(another problem all it own) I will give that a shot. Thanks
I will also take a look at the parts I used and post them In a day or two.

 

I used 1&1/4" pipe. Two 90s, One T, and One 4 way. I had to cut about 1/2" off them where pieces touch each other since the carbs ar so close together.
Sorry its kind of vague If you dont get it pm me and Ill try to clear anything up.
Thanks
Andrew

 

or you could build another one and have the air cleaner come out the side (like a v twin) you would get alot more air that way.

 

You don't WANT a lot more air.

You want JUST ENOUGH Air.

The Carbs are dialed in to a specific Cubic Feet per Minute.
When you exceed that ... you are going to be Lean and need to ReJet

 

I thought about folding up a small metal box. Cutting four holes the same size and spacing as the original air box. Using the same boots. Cutting a hole for the crankcase breather. Cut a hole and attach the pod.

This is a fake drawing (not to scale).

 

That looks pretty sweet. Id like to see pics if you do it.
Thanks
Andrew

 

considering its only one intake for the 4 carbs it should be pretty close shouldnt it?

 

does it tune properly like this? Im not so interested in pods for style or performance but I've been toying with the idea of cuting the front half of my air box off to turn the filter part in to storage/tool box area with some hinges and perhaps a small relocation of the fuse box but i have no desire to rejet!
Shaun

 

Brilliant.

What did you use for the rubber boot from carb to PVC?

 

That intake manifold looks like the hot tip! I've always liked the look of pods but decided against it due to all the reading I've done here. (no performance increase, need to rejet, hard to tune...) I might try this when I get to my XJ750 project.

AMC- have you been riding the bike like this? How's it running and holding up? Nice job on the leather side covers, too.

 

One caution, guys, please: there is a reason they quit using solid copper fuel line (or solid ANYTHING line) on motorcycles: It can and will fracture after prolonged exposure to vibration. YOU DO NOT WANT a fuel line cracking and dousing you with gas while riding down the highway.

Copper fuel lines LOOK cool, admittedly. They have NO PLACE on a street bike unless it is purely a show bike and not actually being ridden in traffic at road speeds for any period of time.

XJs are not Triumphs or Harleys, but they DO vibrate; it's a high-frequency vibration WE don't really notice but believe me copper fuel line will. I HONESTLY DON'T THINK THIS (copper fuel lines) IS A GOOD IDEA.
Please give this a little more thorough thought before accidentally immolating yourself.

 

Don_A
Ive been riding this bike since last year. It rides just like it used to but you get a cold air intake suction sound when you hit the throttle. Just a little mental hp, just like speed holes or racing stripes. I might make another intake where it sticks out the side pointing the cone air filter forward. For now Im gonna stick with the one I have.

rnice
The rubber boots were found in the plumbing section of home depot. I believe they are actually made to work with pvc parts. They are just rubber pvc couplers. Mine actually came with metal covers and work quite well.

bigfitz52
you are absolutely right it was nice while I had it but I put the rubber fuel line back on. I dont want any highway immolating to the motorcycle gods.

Thanks all for the comments and questions. Keep em coming if you got em

 

http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/ ... 101/page1/

 

I was thinking about doing the intake with stainless but am a little unsure how to get them all connected. Any ideas?

 

I like your intake mod, must make removing and installing the carbs a lot easier!
Having grown up on a farm the old steel tractor seat brings back a lot of memories but I can gaurantee you, about 14 hours on one of those and you'll never want to see it again.

 

If anyone looks closely at the Enfield in the first picture, you'll notice (or maybe not) that the copper fuel line is isolated from the bike on both ends by small sections of rubber line. This will eliminate the vibration from the copper line, and the risk of fracture.

 

I like this setup a lot! I run a 650 Turbo with some nice mods. I was looking at installing an intercooler, BPV and larger trubo. This will surely make the mod easier.

 

I like this setup a lot! I run a 650 Turbo with some nice mods. I was looking at installing an intercooler, BPV and larger trubo. This will surely make the mod easier.