Anti-Dive questions

I need to replace the dust seals on the Seca I just got and will need to pull the forks to do it. Is there a way this can be done without having to crack open the hydraulics? On my Maxim, you just pull the calipers and the wheel and your in business. Doesn't look that simple with the Anti-dive connection. I really do not want to have to bleed the brake system to do this. Thanks in advance.

 

Yep. you have to bleed the brakes if you pull the fork...

 

I disagree. Mines and RJ, but I didnt think there was a diffrence.
There are two allen bolts each side holding the antidive unit to the lower leg.
Remove and save bolts, then the fun starts. I HATE doing those forks on the seca. PITA

 

Release pressure and drain the forks before you pull the anti-dive mechanisms off. If not it'll be a pretty big mess (oil under pressure, etc.)
I've bled so many braking systems that it's not such a big deal for me anymore. It's quite a bit easier than getting the forks off IMHO.
--Might as well do the fork oil seals while you're at it... and maybe even the steering stem bearings???--

 

You don't have to bleed the brakes to pull the forks. The anti-dive unit consists of two parts, a valve in the fork that regulates fork oil flow, and a piston that is actuated by brake fluid pressure. Those two units are bolted together by two small allen bolts such that the latter, actuates the former.

Why are you replacing the dust seals and not the oil seals?

 

Bleeding The Front Brakes Isnt Too Hard, Just Need A Extra Person And Ready To Clean A Mess. Im With ManBot Though, If Your Going That Far Replace The Seals Too. Could Save Yourself A Headache Later

 

I just finished-up a whole front-end job.
Headset bearings, MC Kit, Fork Sliders, Springs and Seals.
Stainless wrapped Brake Lines.
Calipers overhauled: Complete.

I even Polished-up the Lower-fork Oil Lock Piece.

My Front Brake System was cleaned and dry as a bone when I started Bleeding.

I pulled the Bleeders off both Calipers.
Wire-wheeled the Threads.
Wrapped the Threads with a few tight layers of Teflon Tape.
Trimmed the Tape so the Bleeder flowed freely.
Got ready to Bleed.

Made a Tool.
2-Inches of Vacuum Hose --> Hose Union --> 8-Feet Clear Vinyl.
The Vacuum Line fits very snuggly on the Bleeder Bubble-end.

My wife assisted me.
Filled MC 3/4 full of Fresh Brake Fluid.
Attached Hose to Bleeder.
Opened Bleeder.
Placed Vinyl Hose to my lips and applied suction.

Fluid was drawn from MC.
Wife kept constant level.
"Eventually", ... Air and Fluid appeared in Vinyl Hose.
Did Left side until Air Bubbles were gone.

••• Observe Fluid in Vinyl Hose. When it gets close to lips, ... Close Bleeder. Remove Rubber Hose. DRAIN Tool. Start over. •••

Removed all Air and Bubbles in the bone-dry System in less than a hour.

 

That violates the sacred garage time rule.... though i can understand for bleeding brakes.

Also, why are you replacing dust seals but not oil seals? Plan your work, + make it easier for you. Like do your forks, steering stem bearings, and brakes all at the same time. Save yourself a lot of unnecessary de and re-assembly.