Changing fork seals not going to well....

I have a 1981 xj550 seca. I took the top clip off, the top cap and pulled the spring out. I drained all the oil....Now the allen bolt on the bottom just turns and turns.....I doesnt feel like it is getting looser....any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

 

You need a long tool to hold the piece that the allen bolt screws in to. You can make one from a couple of long socket extensions and an inverted sparkplug socket. Like this:

 

What size socket extensions?

 

Since you have the cap out you can run a tape measure down inside the fork to it.

 

Not length...1/4 socket extensions?

 

PM sent.

3/8" extensions to others reading.

 

I have about 15" of extinsions going down into the fork, but its not do anything.....

 

There's a hex socket down at the bottom that you need to insert your tool into. This will hold it while you undo the allen bolt from the other end.

 

Dunno if this helps but....
I had the same problem on my 1980 Maxim.
Put the spring back in and held it sideways against the rail post of my deck and then used the allen wrench on the bottom. Little awkward, bu it worked. Pressure on the spring held the piece at the bottom.
Hope it helps.

 

I used 12mm studding 2x19mm A/F nuts tighten up against each other at both ends - dropped the studding down the folk until it registered - held a spanner at the other end and used an allen key with tommy bar to release the component.

Worked just fine.

 

I appreciate all the help. The tool you told me to make gamaru worked (I just had to put it in the right way). Getting the old seals out sucked...Now getting the new ones in is a b**** too. Should be done here in a day or two.
***Edited by Robert, Mind the language please! Thanks!***

 

I have an '82 XJ750J Maxim and I am having the same problem. I will try these suggestions (tool and pressure) and post back if I get anywhere with it. My feeling is that the old springs are not giving enough pressure on whatever part is down inside there, and that allows the components attached to that bolt on the bottom of the fork to slip.
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After a little wrenching on the forks I confirmed that the socket and 3/8" extensions would do the trick. If you take the rubber out of the spark plug adapter (if there is any) and sticking the socket extension in reverse through that spark plug adapter it would create a great tool for catching the internals and allowing you to release the bolt on the bottom of the fork. You will need to put the upside-down spark plug adaptor down into the fork. I do not have those 3/8" extensions, so I stuck a round wooden broom handle down inside my fork. That created enough grip on those internal components and I was able to release a bolt on the bottom of one of my forks. The other fork was not as easy-going. I will get some 3/8" adaptors from a friend and see if we can't wrench the other bolt free.

I have a bad feeling that I may have stripped the bolt/internal connection on that other fork from trying so hard to free it (I was trying everything I could think of before finding this forum). Worst case, I think I may have to take it in somewhere and have them drill out the old bolt, or whatever it takes to get it out. I am sure that I can order new (or find old) parts somewhere to correct my problems on that other fork if I have to go that route. As of now, I have the fork standing up-right with some WD-40 in the bottom. Perhaps that will help loosen up that bolt.

Anyone have any idea other than drilling out that bolt? This is pretty frustrating! --again, I will re-post if i figure this out. Good forum by the way! Saved me 1/2 of a headache!
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Installing the new seals should be easy: use a socket of the appropriate diameter to fit against the seal, as close to the OD as possible without being bigger, and gently tap into place. Use NEW spring clips (per the factory book.) Use the same procedure for the dust seals.

Generously lube the new seals with clean fork oil and carefully slide the forks in.

 

Can anyone post a cutaway of this and what this tool does please? My ability to imagine what's going on inside has been severely depleated by lack of sleep, and I'm going to need to change my fork seals.. THis sounds like a total nightmare, and I can't figure out why you'd want to put the plug socket on the tool inverted?

 

When installing the new seal, I slide it over the tube and get it started in the fork. Then I slip the OLD seal over the top to help keep from buggering up the new one and then a piece of 1 1/4" PVC works great to gently tap the seal down into the fork. Get it seated and then slip the old seal back off and install the retaining clip.

And THANKS Gamaru for the spark plug socket tip!
I made a tool from a piece of pipe and bolt, but the spark plug socket and extensions are MUCH more transportable to carb clinics!

 

The job really isn't that bad. A little frustrating if you dont do your research, or have not done it before. I will post pictures tomorrow. The inverted 5/8" spark plug socket will fit perfectly to the components inside the lower tube and hold them in place so you can unscrew the bolt on the bottom of the fork. This allows you to remove the stanchion, easily remove the fork seal, and clean out the lower fork. I have an xj750j and it's the same as the 650.

 

I chose to go with circlips on my forks They work well....

 

Thanks Dallas. What's 5/8 in mm

 

5/8" = 15.8750mm per the internet. I don't know if the size of the socket matters, because you are using the opposite end, not the 5/8" that would normally grab the spark plug. That socket fits inside my fork tube and fit the internal connection to my lower fork parts PERFECTLY. What you need is a socket with a large hex pattern on the outside. Normal sockets are smooth, but she spark plug socket has a hex pattern on it.

 

I had to make a tool to reach inside the fork leg and fit inside the retaining tube. This was done by welding the correct size nut to a bolt which I could then put a socket on (on the end of a long extension bar) to get sufficient purchase. I also found that I had to secure this at ground level by standing on a T-bar on the end of all this (you could hold it in a vice) whilst I impacted a (cut-down) allen key at the allen bolt end. Not easy, but straightforward when you've done it a few times - and you probably will. I found I had to do the same thing (though to a different size) when it came to dismantling GPZ600 forks too.

I have added a photo here of my special XJ fork dismantling tool kit!
The diameter of the bolt head is 19mm across flats.

 

Phot hasn't appeared. I have posted it in my gallery now so you can click gallery box below to find it. N

 

Thanks.. the 5/8 spark wrench translates to 16mm.. I'll give that a go before I go cutting up my Alen Keys!

 

My forks needed a 19mm (or 3/4 inch) bolt head. Try your 5/8 first and if no joy try a 3/4. N

 

I've got both, I'll figure it out. Thanks

 

Is anybody here willing to compile a how-to? The information seems to be around but it's scattered all over the place. This actually does sounds like a nightmare job to do.

I have a feeling I might have to be doing this soon myself and I brought the bike in for a safety today and the mechanic subtlety noticed there was a little bit of oil around the fork...

Thanks in advance!

 

The following discussion has some very good pointers, tips, and photographs that detail the fork rebuild process on a 1981 XJ650 Maxim model (one of the "simple" fork systems), and is a good point of reference to help you decide whether the task is something that you wish to attempt yourself or leave to a qualified shop. Many thanks to owner Gamuru for his excellent efforts in providing this material:

http://www.xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=8355.html

 

OK.. This is my way of doing it.

First, undo the bolts/nuts on the top yoke, then undo the fork top nuts with a suitable allen key (taking care not to let the springs fire them out at you).
Next remove front wheel and drop the forks out. Turn them upside-down over someting to catch the oil. Remove the fork dust collars.

Insert a (on mine) 3/4 inch (19mm) bolt on the end of a socket extension bar (or two) down the stanchion and into the head of the retaining stem. You'll need some way of getting a really good purchase on this (click on gallery button in my post above to see the tool I made. I had The nuts welded onto bolt, but if you use three nuts you might get enough leverege). LOf course, you might be lucky and have the correct Yamaha tool to hand.

Keep this in place and turn the stanchion/leg assy over. Now use an allen key to impact/undo the retaining bolt in the bottom of the leg - I had to cut the angle off the allen key to make a straight drift which I could really clout, as these are usually Loctited.

Once this is done, turn fork right way up and pull hard on the leg to pull it out of the stanchion (there may be a circlip to remove from above the fork seal first - can't remember as I've done two sets of Kawasaki forks since). Now you should have everything apart and be able to lever out the old seals.

Fit the new seals into the stanchion (I used a bit of blunt wood to drift/seat the new seals), then reassemble in reverse order.

Hope this helps.

Nige.

Slide new seal

 

Sorry, I've mixed up my legs with my stanchions.

Penultimate para should read pull the stanchion out of the leg.

Last para should read fit new seals into leg.

Nige

 

Ok.. Go to the back of the class..

 

Sometimes I'm impatient and sometimes my deadlines are immovable.
Thusly was born this frankensteinien creature


Metal tube for leverage (held in place with my toes), 8mm hex key, The Bolt, damping rod, m12 bolt, spark plug socket, 10mm/11mm socket, 8mm/9mm socket, 12mm socket, socket extender, ratchet.

So the sparkplug socket is now permanently attached to the 10/11 socket because I jammed it in so hard..
It did work, but I think I'll make the tool described earlier in this topic.

 

I just use the "stack of extensions and upside-down spark plug socket" tool myself; you need the thing so rarely and then it breaks down and all the pieces go back to their regular jobs.

 

so, heres what the top of the damper rod looks like, (the part you're trying to hold)


a reversed 19mm spark plug socket should fit in the end, with extentions to reach down into the fork leg


or you can maka tool with a long 19mm bolt as above
stu

 

Good close-up pics!

 

I used a broom stick. Wood grabbed the splines really well.

 

So, exactly which parts do I need to replace when fixing leaking forks? Gamuru mentions dust seal, oil seal clip and oil seal. So, is that 3 parts for each fork? Any part numbers for a 1982 XJ650 Maxim? Any suggestions on where to get these parts? Thanks for the help.

 

Send a p/m to user and chacal. He will hook you up.

 

Thanks for the info.