1983 650 maxim motor frozen

i have a 83 650 maxim that has set up for 20 years in side storage, when parked it was not serviced, so now i am trying to get it running again, i have pulled the carbs, starter and plugs and put mystery oil in the cyl. i try rocking back and forward to break the pistons from being frozen with no luck. any suggestions other than pulling the head will be appreciated thanks grm

 

What your doing is the only way i have heard to free a stuck motor. Maybe try some penetrating oil in the cylinders. Thats the only thing I can think of.
Hope you get it free.
Andrew

 

I would keep going with the MMO and rocking it. but.. if your really desperate, dansmc.com has a little how-to on coverting a spark plug into a grease injector and using pressure from a grease gun to break free an engine.

 

Was going to suggest the same thing.. GIve some good squirts of pernetrating lubricant into her and see if it breaks free the next day?

 

Diesel fuel also works very well at unsticking pistons.

 

thanks for getting back, i took both side plates to see if i could get a wrench on a nut, right side had some type of plug, left had what looked like ignition parts. if i take the ignition off is there a nut or something i can turn? what if i try the starter would it be putting to much strain on the starter or internal parts? by the way have you ever heard of one being that hard to break loose? thanks again. grm

 

either pb blaster or believe it or not Brake fluid is very good at creeping into things and loosening up rust. If it is truly stuck I would not try the starter. What gear are you rocking the bike in?? it is really hard to get enough traction in 1,2 or 3rd to actually spin the motor it will just drag the rear wheel.

 

There's a square set of flats to use in turning-over the crankshaft on the face of the Ignition Rotor on the ignition side of the crankcase.

If this engine is locked-up so bad you can't get it to budge ... that usually means that there is going to be a lot of work needed to be able to run that engine even if you do get it to move.

If you have plans to be riding this motorcycle anytime soon, it might be time for you to start looking at sources for an engine that won't require a great deal of work that you could acquire and swap with the seized one.

Then, after getting the donor engine running and tuned ... focus on how bad you want to try and save the seized one.

 

i wouldn't give up on it yet.
heat up some penetrating oil and tip a good slurp into each plug hole. leave for 2 days, then try gently rocking the bike in 5th gear.

 

i need to figure out how to get the out of the cyls first. i guess i will have to tip the bike over. i probably should have used p b blaster first. Do you think maybe the valves are stuck or would you guess it the pistons? thanks grm

 

that's what i was thinking, but this bike only has 1400 miles on it, not even broke in yet.

 

That the bike only has 1,400 Miles on it is a crying shame. If it had been laid-up with a good fogging or the cylinders oiled, time would not have taken its toll and you'd be in better shape for the mission to get this bike running.

If you have fought with it and cannot get it to budge, then clearly something is seriously wrong with the engine.
What's causing the seizure isn't a problem that will disappear once the Pistons are loosed and the Crankshaft able to turn.

Put a tool on the Crankshaft Turning Flats on the Ignition Rotor and softly, but firmly Impact the tool ... Clock and Counter-clockwise to see if you can get some movement to aid spreading a lubricant on the Cylinder walls.

Add some 2-Cycle Fuel Mixed at 16:1 to the Cylinders and see if that won't help in getting the Pistons able to move.

 

whatever is in the bores you can suck out with a bicycle pump.
could the p.o. have siezed the motor?

 

It would have taken some kind of SERIOUS abuse to have seized the motor, I would expect.
We did have a case awhile back where someone dropped some screws into a sparkplug hole which was discovered by the Member upon removing the Head.

It's a shame that the engine won't turn-over. Just precisely why there's no movement is puzzling.

We may not know until the engine gets a tear-down. I have a feeling that, that is the only way we are going to get to the bottom of what's keeping this motor from movement.

I also have a feeling that whatever it is (was) that rendered this engine seized is probably serious enough to need more than some lubricants and a prodding to correct the fault.

 

if p.o. means previous owner, no because i bought the bike new. If it comes down to pulling the head and cyl, is the a site where one can buy the parts less expensive than through a dealer. thanks

 

I wouldn't give up on it, either. That would be the kind of challange I would love. Now, you have done some of this, so ignore, but if I were trying to turn it, I would---

remove plugs
drain and replace crankcase oil
remove valve cover and oil the cams and timing chain liberally
put penetrating oil in cylinders
remove left side cover to get to flat
put bike in neutral
put correct size wrench on flat, with cheater bar
push and pull looking for any movement at valve train

If you get some movement, stay after it. If not, stay after it.

Good luck. Sure sounds worth the effort.

 

I had the same problem. Mine wasn't that stuck though. I added some PB for a week, left out all plugs. Put it into 5th gear, clutch in, running start, and popped the clutch. Broke her free quite well.

 

remove plugs did that
drain and replace crankcase oil did that plus replaced filter
remove valve cover and oil the cams and timing chain liberally not yet good idea
put penetrating oil in cylinders put mystery oil, will remove and put in pb buster
remove left side cover to get to flat not yet waiting for the mystery oil to work more
put bike in neutral
put correct size wrench on flat, with cheater bar
push and pull looking for any movement at valve train thanks for the info i will do all above

 

Ok next, i just pulled the valve cover. looked brand new no rust nada. Sprayed p b blaster on cams, chain and cyl walls through plug holes. Tried wrench on flat nut on ignition side. wrench is sloppy so i didn't try hard. need to find a better way. tried rooking in all gears and nada. i have been doing this by myself. as soon as some friends come over i cane get them to help bump the motor free, will let set for a few days to see if will break loose. any more thought is appreciated. thanks grm

 

try & get that really hot penetrating oil down into clean bores, the heat might just induce some movement.

 

Twenty years!
20 years.
The Bike sat for twenty years without so much as a drop of oil getting spilled on it.

Depending on where it stopped there could be as many as four valves wide open.
Those valves and seats are going to need to be refaced.

I think it's time to do an evaluation inspection of the Top-end and Bores.
The engine is seized.
It's not going to become un-seized and run like new again.

This engine is going to require some work.
We have crossed the line attempting to un-seize the engine, now.
We are arriving at the point where frustrations lead to doing things of an extraordinary kind which might make an existing situation worse.

It's time to an autopsy.
Pop the Head off that engine and evaluate the situation.

With any luck you MIGHT be able to get by with a Valve Job and a light Honing of the Cylinders not requiring extensive machine work to the
block.

 

RickCoMatic, i am starting to think the same thing. i am going to wait until i can get someone to help bump it. if that dosen't work then i will probably pull the head. i am going to need a manual, i noticed some where there is a cd available. is there one that can be accessed on the net or does someone suggest something different. by the way i can see part of one valve that is open through the spark plug and it looks very clean. i am going to have to think about if it is worth fixing due to the cost of gaskets and rebuilding the carbs also. thanks grm

 

Ok Pulled head, looks really good not much carbon build up. can't seem to get front chain guide to pull out. was able to get head high enough to get to pistons. they are stuck. sprayed pb blaster and letting set for the night. will try to break loose after it has time for the chemical to work. need to get manual so i don't get timing off. any suggestion on breaking pistons loose? and best way to pull front chain guide. thanks grm

 

Like SaltyCITYXJ550 said, PB it up the pistons and rock the rear wheel back and forth in 5th gear. You may want to put the head back on (less cams)for this to hold it all together.

Just finished a rebuild on a 77 XS750 that sat for 27 years that was locked up as well. Once you get it broke loose, you'll probably find rings rusted in the pistons and possibly broken. As Rick said, you'll need to re-face those valves. I rented a valve spring compressor from an auto parts store but had to make an adapter out of a socket to be able to remove the keepers.

I was fortunate in that I only needed to hone cylinders, lap valves, replace rings and gaskets.

 

I'd take the Head right off the Bike and get access to the Pistons.

I'd shoot penetrating oil down into the rings and let it have a few minutes to work down as far as its going to go.

Then, ...
Using a short, 5-Pound, WOODEN HANDLED, Sledge Hammer ...
Apply some Impact blows to the Crowns of the Pistons
Using the butt-end of the Handle while and assistant applies turning force to the Crankshaft at the Flats on the Ignition Rotor.

Once the Pistons break free ... squirt several ounces of Marvel Mystery Oil into each Cylinder.
Rock the Crankshaft at the Ignition Rotor Flats working the Marvel on to the Cylinder walls.

When a sufficient amount of the Marvel Oil is worked into the Cylinders ...
use a Rubber Faced Mallet and remove the Engine Block for inspection.

 

Ok guys, finally got cyl broke loose. # 3 piston was stuck, had to pull the cylinders could not break the piston loose. had to much rust build up. Rings where froze on #3 piston the others looked great. head had one valve ( #3 ) open. had build up of rust. cleaned up head and cyl and getting ready to have cyl honed and have the valves re-lapped. i appreciate all the suggestion. my only problem now will be getting all the o rings and gaskets in the right place and getting the timing right. thanks again. grm

 

There isn't a better reason for you to INVEST in your Bike's Factory Workshop Manual.

The "Engine" Section is detailed and illustrated with a Step-by-Step for doing all the work you've have to do to that Engine.

Arm yourself with that valuable resource.

http://www.yamahapubs.com/html/itemsear ... del=XJ650K

 

Rick, thanks i been looking for that.

 

You might also check out Chacal, he has most factory manuals in stock at better prices than the dealership!